DUCK IN PIQUANT RED-WINE SAUCE This charming, rustic recipe comes from Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera, one of the landmark cookbooks of the Italian renaissance. Everything is simmered together until the duck meat almost falls from the bone. I’m always astonished by the potent, spicy sauce with its underlying sweetness of dried fruits. Scappi does not mention
MADELEINES WITH HONEY The shape of madeleines is characteristic: baked in shell-shaped molds at a high temperature, they develop a little peak on top. Makes 24 madeleines 1 cup/125 g flour 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ cup/125 g unsalted butter 2 tablespoons/30 g honey 3 eggs ½ cup/100 g sugar Few drops vanilla 24 medium
SOCCA FROM PROVENCE Traditional to Provence are Socca, thin pancakes based on chickpea flour and mixed only with water and a spoonful of olive oil. Leo has recently learned to make them and his skills are much in demand in hot weather down at the Mas where outdoor snacks are always welcome. Possible flavorings for
VODKA AND SESAME SALMON WITH PARSLEY SALAD I’ve a weakness for the smoky flavor of toasted sesame, a perfect match for salmon sharpened with a sprinkling of lime, then flamed with vodka. With the salmon comes a salad of fresh parsley, dressed with oil and lime juice; it’s delicious too with other fish and chicken.
CHICKEN WINGS WITH TOMATOES IN CREAM The Middle Eastern trick of a quick coating of yogurt works wonders as a marinade for chicken. Not only does yogurt add flavor, but it bakes to an agreeable golden brown. Giant tomatoes browned and finished with cream, make a delicious accompaniment. Serves 4 12-16 chicken wings (about 1.25
POTATO LATKES Latkes are a Jewish speciality, a meal in themselves when served with apple sauce or crème fraȋche. We happened to be testing latkes in the kitchen during strawberry season and they turned out to be oddly delicious with our rather runny strawberry jam. The main work involved for latkes is in grating the
CHOCOLATE BEGGARS Chocolate beggars are coins of dark chocolate embedded with toasted hazelnuts, almonds, and pistachios. This is a Burgundian recipe and the colors of the nuts, brown, grey and reddish beige, echo the robes of the beggar monks of the Middle Ages. Candied lemon is the most appropriate color of the peel but orange
MOCHA CHOCOLATE MOUSSE It was a wise old chef who taught me this recipe, which gives maximum results for minimum effort. You can vary the coffee flavor by substituting a different alcohol, such as rum or cognac. Serves 4 250 g/9 oz dark chocolate, chopped 4 egg whites Pinch of salt 30 g/2 tablespoons sugar
LASAGNE This recipe can easily be doubled, and I would suggest layering it in a roasting pan. Serves 6-8 675 g/1½ lb lasagne sheets 50 g/¾ cup grated Parmesan cheese For the meat sauce 4 onions, chopped 60 ml/4 tablespoons oil 900 g/2 lb minced beef 900 g/2 lb minced pork 2 tins (175 g/6
WINTER SALAD OF COUNTRY HAM WITH BEETS, ENDIVE AND LAMB’S LETTUCE Endive and lamb’s lettuce are among the treats of winter, a glimpse of green along with the seasonal roots on the vegetable stand. Teamed with beets for color and hazelnuts for crunch, they are a classic French combination, delicious with thin slices of Smithfield