Lumber Talk.com: Professional-Level information and how-to-build articles for wood, timber, and lumb

Time 2020-11-04 15:05:27

Web Name: Lumber Talk.com: Professional-Level information and how-to-build articles for wood, timber, and lumb

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Lumber Talk.com: Professional-Level information and how-to-build articles for wood, timber, and lumber professionals and users. Lumber Talk - Professional-Level Information for the Lumber Timber Building Industry Lumber Talk Lumber Talk Professional-level technical and how-to information for designers and builders of wood projects. Architects, engineers, contractors, builders, and installers can all feel at home here and find information they can use.Source materials suppliers, get materials specs, or learn how to build something. Lumber Talk is here to help with your projects. There s a common question that gets batted around. The answer is simple but the reason is usually not explained well. Feel free to add your 2 cents, too, if you happen to be a chemist or treated wood pro. Can you burn treated wood? Well, yes. You should know it is illegal in all 50 states to do so. SHOULD You Burn Pressure Treated Wood?NO. You should not burn pressure treated wood ever. Again, it is illegal in all 50 states to burn pressure treated wood. Why You SHOULD NOT Burn Treated Wood?First, it s illegal. If by some chance it is not illegal where you are, it probably should be. Second, the metal left in the ash is probably harmful to you or the environment in one way or another. For the purpose of this post, we ll focus on 3 chemicals commonly used to pressure treat wood. CCA Chromated Copper Arsenate only used for commercial and marine applications nowMCQ Micronized Copper Quaternary used for residential and commercialCA Copper Azole use for residential and commercialThe primary ingredients in these pressure treated wood chemicals are metals copper, chromium, and arsenate (a form of arsenic, in case you were wondering). When treated wood is burned, the metals remain in the ash. Inhaling the smoke would be bad for you, too, but the main danger comes from the concentrated metals left in the ash. All three metals are toxic to some degree. Arsenic is the worst, by far. According to this discussion string, the ash left from burning CCA treated wood is toxic enough to kill cows and deer. Copper and chromium are also toxic but not so severely poisonous as arsenic. The human body needs some copper to function properly but too much lead to a host of issues from diarrhea and vomiting to liver failure and more. Here is a list of possible reactions to copper toxicity and some more here. Chromium poisoning appears to be pretty terrible, too. Chromium poisoning is very rare but it is possible. Chromium is an essential nutrient in the human body and helps with how insulin regulates blood sugar levels. Too much can cause rashes, renal failure, and more. There you have it. The short answer is DON T BURN TREATED WOOD but the readers of LumberTalk tend to like more complete info so there you go. Here s a post where someone posts the question about why it s so bad to burn treated wood. The responses are aggravating because no one answers his question and only tells him to trust in knowing that it s dangerous. You might actually feel a little sorry for tgm1024. Here s a good resource if you are in the market for used poles, especially wood poles. We put together usedpoles.com as a free resource for buyers and sellers to trade used poles, and maybe other building materials, too. I always feel compelled to mention that I don t necessarily recommend using used poles for your project. Some poles were removed for a reason so think hard about your intention with your building project. If you are building something that is structural, reconsider using used poles to save money. You might be much better off in the long-run by installing new poles. If you are building something that is purely aesthetic, then go to town with yourself and your used poles. Just make sure you know what you are buying. That said, here is usedpoles.com. What is the best fence post depth? That depends (of course) on what type of fence you are building and which post you are putting in the ground. We’ll cover a few here with some general fence builder rules.Privacy Fence Post Depth — 1/3 of HeightThe general rule of thumb for privacy fence posts is to bury them 1/3 the depth of the height of the post. This is easy for your typical privacy fence. Use 8? posts, bury 2? in the ground, and you’re left with a 6? post on which to build a fence.Concrete is still a good idea (I recommend it), especially if you live in an area with high winds or occasional hurricanes. I’ve even drilled a 9/16? x 8? hole in the bottoms of the posts and driven a piece of re-bar in with about 12? sticking out. The result is a post buried 2 feet in the ground, with re-bar another 12? (driven into the clay soil), surrounded by concrete — very strong posts. Overkill? Whatever, dude.Farm Ranch FenceYour typical farm or ranch fence, especially one with wire stretched, has 2 types of posts — line posts and corner posts.Use the 1/3 of height rule for the line posts depths. With 6 foot posts, you will probably bury 1.5 to 2 feet and end up with a 4 to 4.5 foot post. For corner posts, you might want to use a rule of 1/2 the height for the fence post depth. So, a 5 foot tall corner post would probably be buried 2.5 feet in the ground — probably more like 3 feet buried of an 8? post. These Green Treated poles have a light green color because they are treated with CCAA lot of people ask about green treated wood. There s nothing magical about it so let s clear it up. Green = CCA9 times out of 10 green treated wood simply means CCA treated wood. CCA, of course, is Chromated Copper Arsenate, the stuff that was banned for use in most residential applications such as decks, railing, fences, and the like. People freaked out about the arsenate component of the wood. Arsenate is a naturally-occurring form of arsenic so people got freaked out but the stuff is all around us anyway. Stick your hand in any patch of dirt in your backyard and you ll probably be touching more arsenate than if you were to do a handstand on your CCA treated deck (which you can t make anymore). I ve researched it a decent amount and have seriously never seen any evidence that it actually causes any health issues. Oh, yeah. I digress CCA is still allowed for use in water and for many commercial and industrial applications because it is an ultra-effective treatment to dramatically increase the life of wood. Wood treated with CCA gets a green color that might range anywhere from light young-lemony-green with light treatment to near-forest green with a saltwater treatment (2.5pcf). It s that simple, really. Green treated wood is wood pressure treated with CCA. Other TreatmentsTo separate themselves from the green treated wood, ACQ treated lumber producers branded their ACQ treated wood lumber as Yellawood, which you ve probably seen on everything from store shelves to billboards. MCQ is basically clear, or colorless. In fact, the very strength of being clear is kind of its weakness, too, because when MCQ lumber is delivered many people do not believe they have received treated wood. It really is that hard to tell sometimes. CCA is a better product anyway. I think we should drop the Yella stuff and the clear stuff and the whatever stuff and go back to the good ol green treated wood that works so well. It makes me want to only build on water where I know I can use the good stuff. Of course, there s also BLUE treated wood which is usually a borate-based treated wood but that s a different conversation.

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