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Chamboulé s Taylor Lane Vineyard, near Occidental in west Sonoma CoastIt’s not often a wine made in California strikes me as “profound.” Don t get me wrong, the Golden State makes delicious wines. The usually reliable climate in most of California’s winemaking regions leads to steady ripening and big, full-bodied, fruit forward wines. Some are capable of maturing into beauties.But for a young California wine to remind me of experiences I’ve occasionally had with old Barolo or mature white Burgundy? Those rare moments of awe when you sit in silence with a wine, sensing secrets and mysteries embedded there along with the sublime pleasure one is experiencing. That, for me, is an encounter with something profound. And that’s what I experienced sampling wines from a new producer whose first releases are made from grapes grown in the west Sonoma Coast as well as Napa’s Diamond Mountain. “Chamboulé” is the past participle of “chambouler,” an obscure French verb meaning variously to shatter, shake, turn upside down or upset. In other words, “disrupted.” That’s the intriguing name chosen by the philosophical French Canadian winemaker who co-creates these wines in partnership with an American winemaker who grew up in Sonoma. Both winemakers François Morissette and Matt Taylor trained in Burgundy. That’s where they learned ancient winemaking techniques and practices they employ in their project today.Matt Taylor François MorissetteThat includes long macerations and extended contact between the wine, expended yeast cells and grape skin debris. In whatever vessel neutral barrel, demi-muid, steel tank or concrete egg the wine matures, it is left undisturbed on these lees until being racked right before bottling. Another old technique they employ is preserving and kegging those fine lees after racking, introducing them to wine from a subsequent vintage to “educate” the new wine. They explain this can help “fill out” the new wine when it appears to have “holes.” Another advantage of the extended lees contact is that it helps protect the developing wine from oxidation. François has been heavily influenced by the natural wine movement ever since he was a sommelier years ago at Montreal’s Laloux Bistro, one of Canada’s first wine bars to feature low sulfur and biodynamic wines. As a winemaker at his Domaine Pearl Morisette in Ontario’s Niagra region, François has long made wines with the least and latest possible sulfur addition. Easy to clean, custom designed La Garde inox tank at ChambouléHe explains they want some “turbidity” in the young wine from the skin debris because particles in the lees form molecules that link to free terminations that would otherwise be susceptible to linking with oxygen in the absence of added sulfur. The yeast cells themselves absorb dissolved oxygen, withdrawing it from oxidation reactions, while particular amino compounds that develop, such as glutathione and cysteine, also help protect the wine from oxidation. It can be a nerve wracking process, though, to be relying on these natural alternatives to sulfur addition, and has to be constantly monitored.François Morissette spent eight years in Burgundy, working with Frédéric Mugnier in Chambolle-Musigny and Jean-Marc Roulot in Meursault, and spending hours chatting with the Gouges family in Nuits-St. Georges. He learned biodynamic viticulture there, as did Matt Taylor, who interned at Domaine Dujac after completing his viticulture and oenology degree at Fresno State. They apply a lot of biodynamic principles. Their major focus in farming, though, is the quality of those grape skins.François explains he doesn’t have to worry about sugar content in California. He characterizes this ripeness as “horizontal fatness,” and says the challenge is to achieve a “vertical” dimension as well. The cool sites they draw from ripen while preserving good acidity. He claims they get that extra complexity from the grape skins, which therefore have to be optimal. François says they regularly chew on the skins to determine when that point is reached.Another aspect of wine important to François is what the French call “qualité des amers.” This roughly translates as “noble bitterness,” and François describes it as a sensation that “grabs at the bottom of the throat.” It can be achieved through extended maceration, but is a tricky quality to get just right, as it can’t readily be fixed once it’s gone too far.In addition to his Burgundian background, Matt brings to the collaboration years of experience as both winemaker and vineyard manager at Araujo, and as winemaker for Reuling Vineyard in Russian River. He also made small amounts of wine for his own label for several years. A large, balding, bear of a man, with a ready smile and sunny disposition, Matt initially seems an unlikely partner for the relatively compact, long haired, intense and mystically oriented François. Nonetheless, the image that comes to my mind as I taste through with them is that they could have been monk winemaking colleagues from centuries back, bringing out the best in each other and from the vineyards of Burgundy that were once the near exclusive province of the Benedictine and Cistercian orders.Vigneron François Morissette outside the monastery That mental image suddenly makes even more sense when François himself describes their current winemaking facility as a “monastery.” A two-story, wooden structure located down a quiet, dusty road in the outskirts of Forestville, it was built in the 1920’s to house apple orchard harvests and converted to a winery in the 1940s. He contrasts it with the “shopping mall” vibe of Sonoma’s Custom Crush, where the project started. The Buddhist inscriptions and rich, Tibetan monastery-like orange and red colors with which they’ve decorated their portion of the building, whose other tenants are a boutique marijuana grower and coffee bean roaster, add to the sense this is a place for contemplation and spiritual introspection alongside the practice of winemaking.I guess I shouldn’t have been so surprised then that their wines speak to me so profoundly. Winery walls at ChambouléFrançois and Matt’s initial releases, from the 2014 vintage, are a Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc. The grape sources aren’t mentioned on the labels, but they all hail from pedigreed vineyards. The Chardonnay was sourced from the great Charles Heintz Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast, the Pinot from Spring Hill in the Petaluma Gap, and the Cab Franc from Napa’s Caldwell Vineyard. Instead of vineyard designations they have derived acronyms for each bottling based on either the growing season or the process of that particular wine’s evolution. The 2014 Chardonnay, for example, is designated “Y.T.E.” “Your Torment is Endless” to honor the wine’s long, torturous fermentation and evolution in tank: The 2014 Pinot is designated S.E.E.D., for “Simple Expression Evoking Dimension.” The acronym for the 14 Cab Franc, N.A.C.R.E., has a double meaning. “Nacre” is the word for mother of pearl, so it’s a nod to Matt’s love of diving for abalone and enjoying oysters. An iridescent blue, representing the ocean and mother of pearl, is used for the Chamboulé logo on the Cab Franc label. The acronym they generated from nacre stands for “Nature Aspires to Continue Refining Everything.”My full tasting notes on these wines, sampled initially at the winery and again, some weeks later, over a two-day period at home, appear below. Suffice it to say, these are incredibly impressive debut wines. The Chardonnay has rich texture and complexity, due at least in part, I think, to the extended maceration and 22 months aging on primary lees in neutral large format barrels and concrete. The intensely savory, velvety textured Pinot Noir included 60% whole cluster, and was likewise aged on primary lees for 18 months in neutral large format oak, as was the Cabernet Franc, with 70% whole cluster. In 2015 and 2016, they raised that to 100% whole cluster for the red wines.I adore Cab Franc, and the inaugural Chamboulé version with its complexity, textural richness and long finish is simply one of the best Cabernet Francs I’ve ever tasted. I rate it 95+ points. My rating on the Pinot Noir is 94 points, and it will reward at least two or three years aging. The Chardonnay is a beauty too, scoring 93+ points for me, and quite unlike any Cali Chardonnay I can think of except perhaps the esteemed Kongsgaard, with its exceptional richness, long finish and good balancing acidity. This wine, and many of the others, also have an appetizing salinity to them, which François attributes to the long lees contact.I also had the opportunity to taste a dozen barrel samples at the winery four from the 2015 vintage and eight 2016s. These young wines, which include a Cabernet Sauvignon from Diamond Mountain and an estate Pinot Noir, made me even more excited about the future of this project.My tasting notes for the delicious 2015 barrel samples which were blended only two weeks before my visit appear below, along with my notes for the 2014s. I did not take detailed notes on the 2016s, since they are at an earlier stage of development, but the wonderful texture and complexity is present in these too, along with exceptional fruit and a sense of freshness, owing to the minimal use of sulfur. I was particularly impressed with 2016 barrel samples from the estate vineyard, Taylor Lane, which is planted to suitcase clones of Pinot that have proven to do well in the west Sonoma Coast. François began looking in 2011 for virgin vineyard sites, areas that had never been planted to vines or agriculture. With the backing of his Pearl Morissette partner, Toronto-based real estate developer Mel Pearl, the team acquired two vineyards in the Sonoma Coast near the town of Occidental Taylor Lane and Coleman Valley Road. François at Taylor LaneI visited Taylor Lane with François and Matt. The vineyard is surrounded by redwoods and literally teaming with life. Soil expert Jacques Petit who advised the team reported he had never seen such pristine soil in over 40 years of digging around the planet. The six vineyard acres there are planted to three different suitcase Pinot Noir clones, designated “R,” “S” and “T.” 2016 is the first vintage from this vineyard.Not far away is Chamboulé’s second vineyard, on Coleman Valley Road. Six and a half acres of that 20-acre site are now planted with rootstock. Like Taylor Lane, the vines are planted to fairly high density, with four foot by three foot spacing. They aim to get to dry farming there within two years.The team also recently purchased a site on Napa’s Mt. Veeder. They started a small “mother block” for planting this site, sourcing some of Napa Valley’s oldest and greatest Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc clones.The production of this well planned and financed effort is tiny at present: only 500 cases for 2014. There will be about 900 cases of the 2015, and they expect to slowly build to an annual maximum of 5,000 cases. I asked how they established the price of their first offering which is $80 for each wine on the website. They explain they simply amortized the land and other costs, before profits, over 25 years, much like Opus One did.Inspiration wines at ChambouléI also asked Matt and François how they negotiate the winemaking process between them, given both are accomplished winemakers who also have experience in all aspects of farming. Matt is in charge of day-to-day activities in the vineyard and winery, of course, since he lives in the area full time, whereas François visits for about a week each month. Their ultimate answer is, “Whoever has the best argument wins.”Below are my tasting notes and ratings on these exceptional wines. Since they are offering a significant portion of the production to select high end restaurants, I expect what’s available through the website to run out quickly. The drawback of the intense effort and focus required to make profound wines is, of course, that they can only be created in small quantities. I feel privileged to have had a chance to sample these wines at such an early stage of the project, and I look forward to following Chamboulé for many years to come.Tasting Notes2014 Chamboulé Chardonnay Y.T.E.Sonoma CoastLight medium lemon yellow; aromatic, chamomile, almond, buttered rum, pear nectar, safflower oil nose; delicious, complex, creamy textured, ripe lemon, chamomile, honey, light beeswax, safflower oil, mineral palate with lively balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (13.3% alcohol; 60% in neutral barrels, 25% in concrete, 15% in stainless steel) 93+ points2014 Chamboulé Pinot Noir S.E.E.D. Sonoma Coast Dark ruby color with slight haziness; very aromatic, fresh, savory, roses, forest floor, black cherry, hibiscus, beets, light caraway seed nose; tightly coiled, velvety textured, complex, tart cherry, forest floor, cranberry, mineral, hibiscus, saline palate with appetizing near medium acidity; could use 2+ years; medium-plus finish (13.1% alcohol; 60% whole cluster) 94 points2014 Chamboulé Cabernet Franc N.A.C.R.E. Napa Valley Saturated, nearly opaque, purple red violet color; aromatic, savory, graphite, toast, mocha, ripe red currant, green olive, dried seaweed nose; delicious, tight, savory, graphite, raspberry, ripe red currant, toast, green olive, iron, saline palate with refined tannins and good balancing acidity; needs 2-3 years; long finish (14.1% alcohol; 70% whole cluster) 95+ points2015 Barrel Samples2016 Pinot Noir barrel samples2015 Chamboulé Chardonnay N.T.E. Sonoma CoastCloudy, medium lemon yellow color; savory, sesame seed oil, safflower oil nose; lemon honey, lemon balm, lemon marmalade, sesame seed oil palate with good balancing acidity; long finish (50% in barrel, 50% in concrete) 92-95 points2015 Chamboulé Pinot Noir S.E.D.E. Sonoma CoastDark red violet color; fresh, very savory, forest floor, toast, roasted beets nose; savory, tart roasted red fruit, roasted beets palate with velvety tannins and medium acidity; could use 4-5 years; medium-plus finish (100% whole cluster) 93-95 points2015 Chamboulé Cabernet Franc S.A.C.R.E. Napa Valley Very dark red violet color; lifted, aromatic, savory, tart red currant, black cherry, black raspberry, toast nose; bright, savory, tart red currant, black cherry, black raspberry, toast, green olive palate with near medium acidity; long finish (100% whole cluster; 100% neutral oak, 600 liter barrels) 93-96 points2015 Chamboulé Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain, Napa ValleyVery dark red violet color; savory, tart red currant, roasted red fruit, iron, seaweed, graphite nose; tight, black cherry, red currant, toast, graphite palate with firm tannins and good balancing acidity; long finish (80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc; co-fermented; 100% whole cluster) 93-96 pointsEmailFacebookTwitterPrintRedditLinkedInPinterestTumblrLike this:Like Loading... Today s offer is an incredible buy on a mature, savory, cool climate Syrah the 2009 Clary Ranch. This was the last year Clary Ranch made a bottling from this windy vineyard situated in Sonoma s Petaluma Gap. From 2010 onward, Arnot-Roberts has purchased all the fruit from this special site, and their Clary Ranch Syrah has scored very highly with critics (e.g., 97 points from Antonio Galloni on the 2015 vintage, 96+ for the 2014). The Arnot-Roberts version sells out quickly to their mailing list at $60. This delicious, complex bottling is available for only $22, and drinks like mature Syrahs from the Northern Rhone selling for two or three times that. If you like savory, cool climate Syrahs, you ll love this complex, delicious, Northern-Rhone-like beauty. Here s my tasting note:Dark ruby color; aromatic, savory, smoky, roasted red fruit, charcoal, tobacco nose; delicious, complex, savory, roasted fruit, smoke, charcoal palate with near medium acidity; reminiscent of a mature St. Joseph, great now and should age well for 5-7 years; medium-plus finish (13.2% alcohol) 93 pointsThis is a steal at $22 a bottle. If you like balanced, lower alcohol, savory wines with bottle age on them, you re going to wish you bought a couple cases of this. Here s the link to purchase this incredible buy. Remember, The Redd Collection offers free shipping for purchases of a case or more.Check back soon for info on my next undervalued, must-have treasure.EmailFacebookTwitterPrintRedditLinkedInPinterestTumblrLike this:Like Loading... The theme of this blog is the search for reasonably priced wines of character. Wines of character are found all over the world, at a variety of price points. The most exciting finds, of course, are those that deliver at a high level of quality and enjoyment for a relatively low price.For years, I have recommended particular wines as being bargains at their price point. Some of those are widely available, like the wines I ve identified in my grocery store Chardonnay project. Others are very limited in availability, often obtainable only through the winery itself or a limited number of retailers.In the case of really great, characterful wines that are also real bargains, I d like to provide a service to my readers in helping them access those wines in an easy and cost effective way. Toward that end, I ve been talking with a longtime friend who has been in the wine business for years, Michael Carpenter. I ve known Michael since he was a manager at Wally s in Los Angeles, and then when he ran a very cool wine bar and retail store operation in Culver City. Michael Carpenter, owner of The Redd CollectionMichael ultimately closed his store/wine bar in L.A. and moved the business and family to Sonoma County, so that his operation, The Redd Collection, is now exclusively online. He has an importer s license and good connections with a lot of distributors. He also has the same affinity I do for balanced, characterful wines, and for discovering little known producers who craft amazing wines. On top of that, Michael has long been one of the most reliable and conscientious wine retailers I know. Our intention is that when I come across a characterful, well priced wine that is available in the marketplace, The Redd Collection will add it to inventory so that a link can be included in my tasting note. For this project, I will be specifically focused on identifying wines that drink well above their price point that aren t widely available.The first wine I have identified that can be obtained through The Redd Collection is a complex, savory Sonoma Pinot Noir that is only $20 a bottle. It drinks like an Oregon or cool climate California Pinot from one of my favorite producers that would typically sell for $40 to $50 a bottle. It s the 2013 David Noyes Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. Here s my tasting note:Medium ruby color; aromatic, cranberry, tart cherry, beets, sous bois, earthy, talc nose; silky textured, complex, cranberry, berry, tart cherry, earthy, mineral palate with grip and good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (14.2% alcohol) 92 points (great value: drinks like Oregon and cool climate California Pinots costing twice as much)I tasted this wine over a period of three hours recently and greatly enjoyed how the nose and palate deepened, displaying different aspects of its complexity over time. David Noyes is a Pinot Noir specialist whose winemaking career began in the cellar at Ridge Vineyards. He started his own label in 2001, focusing on Pinot Noir, and a few other varietals, from vineyards in Sonoma County. He aims for wines of balance that complement food, and it s hard for me to think of another Pinot Noir at this price point that I have enjoyed as much.This wine is available for order through The Redd Collection. Shipping is free for purchases of a case or more.EmailFacebookTwitterPrintRedditLinkedInPinterestTumblrLike this:Like Loading... amphitheatre of vines at Casa Valduga in Vale dos VinhedosI’m thrilled the Olympic Games in Rio went so well, exceeding expectations. I am happy to report that another potential source of pride for Brazilians is the fact that some excellent wines—yes, even medal worthy—are now being made there. Surprised? So was I.I was fortunate to travel to the center of Brazil’s fine wine production last December, on a trip sponsored by Wines of Brazil. The trip was led by Evan Goldstein, Master Sommelier and author of the terrific Wines of South America. I’m a huge fan of Evan and have really enjoyed traveling with him in the past. I therefore took it on faith when he told me Brazilian wine country was worth a trip. I had tasted some okay Brazilian reds and fairly good sparkling wines prior to this trip that in no way prepared me for how excellent some of Brazil’s top wines actually are.Brazil’s fine wine country—based in the more temperate southern end of the country is also stunningly lush and beautiful, blessed with a few of the most gorgeous vineyards I have ever visited. The best of the wines have excellent fruit quality, relatively low alcohol and good balancing acidity. The food is also delicious there and the people warm and delightful, of course.Unfortunately, few of Brazil’s finest wines are imported to this country, and those that are are currently available primarily in only a few states on the East Coast. Hopefully this will change in the coming years. I have indicated below, with my tasting notes, which ones are available in the U.S.BackgroundWine production in Brazil, spurred in large part by the many Italian immigrants in the south, who brought knowledge and grape cuttings with them, dates back to the mid-1800s. The production of fine wine, however, based on vitis vinifera grapes, really only got going in the 1970s, picking up steam with a growing number of boutique producers since the 1990s. A concerted effort to improve quality has been underway since 2000.That said, the vast majority of the country’s wine production—over 80% is still very ordinary “vinho de mesa.” That translates as “table wine,” which makes it sound higher quality than it really is. Much of it is made with North American grapes, vitis labrusca, and hybrids, which have been widely planted in Brazil’s humid climate because they fared much better than vitis vinifera, the type of grapes from which fine wine is made.Nonetheless, vitis vinifera varieties like Merlot, and the grapes most commonly used for sparkling wine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir have been planted in increasing amounts in the southernmost Brazilian state, Rio Grande do Sul. The center of fine wine production in that state is the region of Serra Gaúcha, particularly in the area extending south and west of the city of Bento Gonçalves. This area, called Vale dos Vinhedos Brazil’s only denominação de origen (DO) is essentially the Napa of Brazil, home to the vast majority of the most notable fine wine producers.fog over the Perini vineyard in Farroupilha, an area that specializes in MuscatThis was where our trip was focused, with side trips to a couple of other important areas in Serra Gaúcha Pinto Bandeira, source of grapes for Brazil’s best sparkling wines and an indicação de procedência (IP); and Farroupilha, which was recently approved as an IP for moscato. Unfortunately, there wasn’t time for us to visit another up and coming region for fine wine production lying further south, along Uruguay’s border. The two wine growing areas there are Capanha Gaucha and Serro do Sudeste. We did, however, get to try a number of very good wines made from grapes grown in those areas.Overall, I was impressed with the quality of the sparkling wines from the top three sparkling producers. I was also delighted by the large variety of grapes planted which is surprising given the relatively small amount of fine wine produced here relative to the dominant South American producers, Chile and Argentina. This includes the standard French varieties, as well as more unusual varieties, like Egiodola and Arinaroa. One also finds Iberian varieties, like Tempranillo and Touriga Nacional, and Italian, including Glera, Moscato and Teroldego. Medal WinnersSo after a week of sampling Brazilian wines from our base in Bento Gonçalves, which producers do I think are the very best deserving of gold and silver medals? No one wants a bronze medal any more, except in the Olympics, so I won’t bother nominating a producer for that I’ll only indicate a few other wineries that I think are among the top five or so of Brazil’s best.Gold: Don Giovannivineyards at Don Giovanni in Pinto BandeiraMy gold medalist makes a small amount of dry wine most notably a wonderful Chardonnay but its production is largely devoted to what I think is some of the very best methode traditionelle sparkling wine I’ve tasted outside of Champagne. Don Giovanni is based in Pinto Bandeira. Their sparkling wines are so profoundly good that I would buy them every year if only they were available here in the U.S.Don Giovanni was founded in 1982 but started making sparkling wine in 1997. The owners are Ayrton and Beatriz Giovannini, and the winemaker and viticulturalist is Luciano Vian. They produce about 10,000 cases of wine per year under up to 14 different labels of which about 80% is sparkling. The winery sits on one of the most strikingly beautiful vineyards I’ve ever seen, which includes tall trees, carved stone markers and lots of thriving hydrangeas. The property includes an artistically appointed, family-run guest house and restaurant, which I would strongly recommend as a place to stay on a visit to Brazilian wine country.You can see all of my tasting notes and ratings for their wines below. My single favorite of their sparkling bottlings is the Ouro, a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that is aged 36 months on the lees. I rated it 94 points and it is savory, autolytic, hazelnut heaven. I also very much love the Stravaganzza Brut, which is aged one year on lees, and the Nature, with less than one gram of dosage and aged two years sur lie. Both of these I rated 93+ points.Silver: Lidio CarraroMy silver medalist is Lidio Carraro, named after its owner, an influential and pioneering viticulturalist. While his two sons, Giovanni and Juliano, are involved in making the wine, they benefit a lot from the active involvement of consulting winemaker, Monica Rossetti, who still makes wine in Italy as well. The animated and very articulate Rossetti has worked with Carraro since 1998.Lidio Carraro consulting winemaker Monica RossettiOne of the distinctive features of winemaking here is the absence of any oak whatsoever. Longer macerations and bottle aging are used to supply the texture and firm tannins that oak might otherwise help provide. The focus is on the wines fruit quality, which is very appealing and complex.Lidio Carraro has seven hectares in production in Vale dos Vinhedos, and another 38 hectares in Serro do Sudeste’s Encruzilhada do Sul region, where Lidio pioneered plantings in 2000. Lidio was also the first producer of Merlot in Vale dos Vinhedos, and his winery was the first in Brazil to use gravity flow winemaking.Lidio Carraro was chosen, via a competition, to produce a line of wines for the World Cup Games that Brazil hosted in 2014. This line is called Faces, and it is basically the winery’s entry level offering. They were also chosen to make wine for the Olympics and did so again using the Faces label, producing not only a red, white and rosé, but also three different sparkling wines.For me, the most impressive wines in the portfolio are the Elos Cabernet/Malbec blend, another red blend called Quorum, a varietal bottling of Teroldego, and a terrific Tannat. I scored the latter 94+ points, and it compares favorably to the very best Tannats I tasted in nearby Uruguay that I reported on here and here.Other Top ProducersThe other leading producers for me based on what we tasted are Cave Geisse, Pizzato, Perini and Peterlongo. Cave Geisse and Peterlongo make superlative sparkling wines, while Pizzato and Perini produce not only good sparkling wines but also some excellent dry reds. Please see below for brief profiles of these wineries and tasting notes.I have also profiled below Brazil’s three largest producers the giant cooperative Aurora, Miolo and Salton. Each of these make some very good wines, along with a large quantity of average and mediocre wines.In the tasting notes below, I have only included producers responsible for at least some wines I scored in the high 80s and above. During our trip, we did taste wine from others, including producers based in the equatorial wine region of São Francisco, where the vines never go dormant unless artificially induced, and two harvests can easily be pulled annually from each plot. I found virtually all of these wines to be pretty mediocre.AuroraAurora wines made for exportAurora is a giant cooperative Brazil s biggest wine producer, commanding over 30% of the domestic market for still wine. It was originally founded in 1931 by 16 Italian immigrant families. At one time it had as many as 1300 members, but there are now 1100 with an average of 2.6 hectares of vineyards per member. Members get paid 8% more than government established minimums, and must follow an extensive rule book regarding everything from safety and pesticide use to harvest dates and yields. They have their own grape nursery for members, which propagates 30 varieties and three different rootstocks. The co-op also owns 16 hectares of prime vineyards in Pinto Bandeira, the source for some of their top wines. A team of 15 winemakers oversees the production of 45 million liters of wine per year. Less than 2% is exported, but that makes up 30% of Brazil s wine exports. Marcus James was perhaps their best known brand name, before the name was sold to Constellation. It was briefly exported to the U.S. as white Zinfandel back in the early 1990s. They are now exporting to the U.S. under the Carnaval label wines that are known in Brazil as Procedencia, and producing some special bottlings for the U.S. market under the label Brazilian Soul. A higher end line under the label Pequenos Partilhas was designed for on-premise sales, and includes wines from Chile, Argentina and Uruguay as well as Brazil. The top wines I tasted were the 2014 Chardonnay Pinto Bandeira (92 points), an excellent NV Moscatel Espumante (92 points) and a Bordeaux-blend cuvee made in honor of the co-op s 85th anniversary, that is allocated mainly to co-op members (92+ points). I see several Aurora wines listed on wine-searcher.com as being available in the U.S. That includes a Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat Reserva. Most widely available are red and white versions of the Carnaval Moscato. I rated the white version 88 points and it can be found for an average of $12. A place in Massachusetts carries the Brazilian Soul Chardonnay, which I rated 85+ points, for $6. 2014 Vinícola Aurora 85th Anniversary Cuvee Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaVery dark ruby color; aromatic, appealing, black currant, boysenberry, vanilla nose; medium bodied, delicious, black currant, cedar, black cherry palate with good balancing acidity; could use 2 years; medium-plus finish (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc; 13% alcohol; 10 months in French American oak; barrel selection in honor of the Aurora Co-op s 85th anniversary bottles will be given to the co-op families) 92+ pointsNV Vinícola Aurora Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; pear cream nose; light-medium bodied, tart pear cream, tart grapefruit, chalk palate with medium acidity; medium finish (100% Chardonnay, 20-30 days in tank, 10 grams dosage) 84 pointsNV Vinícola Aurora Extra Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Pinto BandeiraVery light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; autolytic, almond, almond cream, light hazelnut nose; tasty, tart pear cream, almond cream, mineral palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (60% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, 10% Riesling Italico; 12.5% alcohol) 89 points2011 Vinícola Aurora Brut Rosé Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight medium orange pink color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; toast, beets nose; toast, roasted beets palate with medium acidity; medium finish (80% Pinot Noir, 20% Riesling Italico; 11.5% alcohol; 10.62 grams dosage; 6-7 months in tank) 84 points2014 Vinícola Aurora Cabernet Franc Pequenas Partilhas Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha Very dark purple red violet color; appealing, ripe black currant, blackberry, dried berry, light toast nose; medium bodied, tight, tart berry, tart black currant, toast palate with some balancing acidity; could use 1-2 years; medium-plus finish (13% alcohol) 88+ points2011 Vinícola Aurora Cabernet Sauvignon Millésimé Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha Very dark purple red violet color; tart berry, toast, ripe black currant nose; medium bodied, tart berry, toast, ripe black currant palate; could use 1-plus year; medium finish (100% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% alcohol; 1 year in French American oak) 87+ points2014 Vinícola Aurora Chardonnay Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Pinto BandeiraLight yellow color; aromatic, almond tart pear nose; medium bodied, tart pear, almond palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (12.5% alcohol; 3 months in new French oak) 92 points2015 Vinícola Aurora Chardonnay Brazilian Soul Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaVery light yellow color; light lemon cream nose; light-medium bodied, tart pear cream, lemon cream palate with medium acidity; medium finish (12% alcohol; 6.15 grams dosage) 85+ points2014 Vinícola Aurora Merlot Reserva Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaDark ruby color; tart plum, black fruit, berry, light cedar nose; tart plum, tart berry, cedar palate with medium acidity; medium finish (12.5% alcohol; 6 months in French American oak) 85+ pointsNV Vinícola Aurora Moscatel Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaVery light green-tinged yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; aromatic, orange blossom, ripe honeydew melon, ripe pear nose; tasty, creamy textured, tart pear, light orange cream palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (7.5% alcohol; 80 grams residual sugar; great value at about $10) 92 pointsNV Vinícola Aurora Moscato Carnavál BrazilVery light yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; aromatic, orange blossom, ripe green melon nose; creamy textured, tasty, orange cream, lime cream, ripe green melon palate with some balancing acidity; medium finish (7.5% alcohol; 80 grams residual sugar) 88 points2014 Vinícola Aurora Pinot Noir Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Pinto Bandeira Medium dark cherry red color; aromatic, black cherry, black raspberry, berry nose; medium bodied, black cherry, black raspberry, toast palate with near medium acidity; could use 1-plus year; medium-plus finish ((13% alcohol; 6 months in French oak) 88+ points2014 Vinícola Aurora Tannat Brazilian Soul Premium Selection Brazil, Rio Grande do SulVery dark ruby color; black currant, tart blackberry nose; black currant, tart blackberry palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (13% alcohol; 10 months in 3d use French American oak, 50/50) 86+ pointsCave GeisseMario Geisse came from Chile in 1976 to start up Moet Chandon s sparkling wine operation in Brazil, Chandon Brazil. He left and started his own winery in 1979. Mario and son Daniel grow the grapes for their label in Pinto Bandeira, the IP for sparkling wine that Geisse helped pioneer. We unfortunately weren t able to visit Cave Geisse, as Mario was away, but I made a point of sampling two of their bottlings while I was there, including their signature Nature Terroir, which I bought at a wine shop in the farmers market in Porto Allegre on the last night of our trip.2011 Cave Geisse Chardonnay Blanc de Blanc Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaVery light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; aromatic, autolytic, almond, almond cream, pear nose; medium bodied, poised, delicate, pear, mineral, tart apple palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (disgorged 2014) 92 pointsNV Cave Geisse Nature Terroir Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight golden yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; aromatic, autolytic, almond, pear gelee, almond cream nose; poised, delicate, almond, tart pear gelee, mineral palate with a sense of salinity and medium acidity; medium-plus finish (12.5% alcohol; 50/50 Chardonnay Pinot Noir; 36 months on lees; disgorged 2015) 93 pointsDal Pizzol2013 Dal Pizzol Cabernet Franc Do Lugar Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaMedium dark red violet color; aromatic, savory, tart red currant, dried red currant, dried herb, light oregano nose; elegant, roast red currant, dried red currant, oregano, dried herb, raspberry, pepper palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (13% alcohol) 92+ pointsDon GiovanniNV Don Giovanni Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; aromatic, lifted, cream, almond cream, vanilla nose; elegant, cream, almond cream, hazelnut palate with minerality, salinity and medium acidity; long finish (75% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir; 12.6% alcohol; 5.54 TA, pH 3.36, 6 grams dosage; 24 months sur lees) 93 pointsNV Don Giovanni Brut Rosé Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Pinto BandeiraLight salmon color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; tart dried orange, almond nose; tasty, roses, dried roses, dried tart plum, tart cherry palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (50% Merlot, 40% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay; 12 months en tirage) 91+ points2014 Don Giovanni Chardonnay Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Pinto BandeiraSlightly hazy light lemon yellow color; light almond, pear, light pineapple nose; medium bodied, poised, fresh, lemon gelee, almond, lightly saline palate with medium acidity, showing pineapple and lemon zest on finish; medium-plus finish (12.6% alcohol) 93 pointsNV Don Giovanni Nature Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Pinto BandeiraVery light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; aromatic, autolytic, almond, almond cream nose; delicate, fresh, very tart lemon, almond, mineral, saline palate with scintillating medium acidity; long finish (75% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir; 12.6%; TA 5.08, pH 3.30; 24 months sur lees) 93+ pointsNV Don Giovanni Ouro Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Pinto BandeiraLight golden yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; very aromatic, savory, autolytic, hazelnut, salt rising bread, light lemon oil nose; savory, very autolytic, hazelnut, mineral, almond, saline palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir; 12.8% alcohol; pH 3.42, TA 6.05; 8 grams dosage; 36 months en tirage) 94 pointsNV Don Giovanni Stravaganzza Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, pear cream, almond cream nose; delicate, creamy textured, almond cream, tart pear cream, lemon cream palate with bright medium acidity; medium-plus finish (75% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir; 12.6% alcohol; pH 3.6, 6.06 TA, 11 grams dosage; 12 months sur lees) 93+ pointsDon Laurindo2009 Don Laurindo Merlot Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosBricking very dark ruby color; savory, tart black fruit, black cherry nose; medium bodied, maturing, black plum, black cherry palate with some balancing acidity; medium finish (12% alcohol) 88 pointsLidio CarraroA few Lidio Carraro wines are available in the U.S. A few vintages of the Dádivas Chardonnay, including the 2013 (RJ91+ points) can be found for an average of $18.The 2013 Agnus Merlot is available for $17, and the 2006 Quorum is available several places for an average of $42. 2013 Lidio Carraro Chardonnay Dádivas Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra do SudesteLight yellow color; fresh, lemon gelee, pear cream nose; medium bodied, creamy textured, lemon, candied lemon peel palate with near medium acidity; medium-plus finish (14% alcohol; 8-10 months sur lees) 91+ pointsNV Lidio Carraro Dádivas Espumante Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosVery light green-tinged yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; autolytic, light almond, green apple nose; creamy textured, green apple, mineral, citrus palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (12% alcohol; 85% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir, 5% Riesling Italico; charmat method) 88+ points2010 Lidio Carraro Elos Cabernet/Malbec Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaMedium dark red violet color; aromatic, red currant, subtle herbs, tart cherry, red plum nose; medium bodied, fresh, tart red currant palate with medium acidity; could use 2-plus years and should go 15+; medium-plus finish (80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec; 12.5% alcohol) 93 points2010 Lidio Carraro Elos Touriga Nacional/Tannat Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosVery dark red violet color; aromatic, clove, cinnamon, roasted berry, licorice nose; tasty, fresh, velvety textured, licorice, roasted cherry, tart berry, tart red currant, spice, lightly saline palate with vibrant medium acidity; medium-plus finish (77% Touriga Nacional, 23% Tannat; 13% alcohol) 91+ points2014 Lidio Carraro Faces The Wine of 2014 FIFA World Cup Brazil Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosLight yellow color; appealing, pear, peach, orange blossom nose; fresh, tart pear, citrus, orange blossom palate with good balancing acidity; medium finish (50% Chardonnay, 30% Riesling Italico, 20% Moscato; 11.5% alcohol) 88+ points2014 Lidio Carraro Faces Rose The Wine of 2014 FIFA World Cup Brazil Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosLight salmon pink color; tart golden raspberry, golden currant nose; tart citrus, tart white grapefruit palate with medium-plus acidity; medium-plus finish (50% Pinot Noir, 35% merlot, 15% Touriga Nacional; 12.5% alcohol) 87+ points2014 Lidio Carraro Faces Red The Wine of 2014 FIFA World Cup Brazil Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra do SudesteMedium ruby color; reduction, tart red currant, tart cherry, light cinnamon nose; tart red currant, reduction palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Tannat) 86 points2013 Lidio Carraro Merlot Agnvs Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra do SudesteMedium dark red violet color; appealing, red currant, tart red berry nose; medium bodied, tart red currant, mineral, light herb palate with medium acidity; reminiscent of an Italian Merlot; medium-plus finish (13.5% alcohol) 90 points2008 Lidio Carraro Merlot Grande Vindima Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosDark red violet color; savory, tart red currant, oregano, dried herbs nose; medium bodied, poised, savory, fresh, tart red currant, oregano, dried herbs palate with medium acidity; long finish (13.5% alcohol) 93 points2014 Lidio Carraro Pinot Noir Dádivas Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra do SudesteMedium cherry red color; reduction, tart cherry, strawberry, roses nose; silky textured, tart cherry, tart strawberry, rosehips, mineral palate with medium-plus acidity; could use 1-2 years; medium-plus finish (13.5% alcohol) 91 points2008 Lidio Carraro Quorum Grande Vindima Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosDark red violet color; savory, smoky, tart red currant, dried provencal herbs, light smoke nose; medium bodied, fresh poised, complex, savory, tart red currant, dried provencal herbs, light smoke palate with lively medium-plus acidity; could use 2-3 years and should go 15-20; medium-plus finish (13% alcohol) 93+ points2010 Lidio Carraro Tannat Grande Vindima Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosOpaque red violet color; aromatic, light coffee, roasted red plum, subtle spice nose; fresh, tasty, tight, complex, cherry, roasted red plum, light coffee, light white pepper, dried herb palate with lively medium acidity; could use 3-4 years and will go 20+; long finish (15.5% alcohol) 94+ points2013 Lidio Carraro Tempranillo Dádivas Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra do SudesteDark ruby color; reduction, coffee, tart red currant nose; silky textured, tart red currant, tart red berry, potpourri palate with medium acidity; could use 2-3 years; medium-plus finish (12.5% alcohol) 89 points2010 Lidio Carraro Teroldego Singular Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha Opaque red violet color; tart cherry, tart roasted plum, reduction, light pepper, cayenne nose; fresh, complex, tart red currant dried red berry, light cayenne palate with firm tannins and medium acidity; needs 4-plus years and should go 15-20; long finish (14% alcohol) 93 pointsMioloMiolo Winery in Vale dos VinhedosMiolo is another one of Brazil s three biggest producers. It s a partnership of three families. They also have wine projects in Europe, Chile and Argentina. They own over 2800 acres of vinifera vines in Brazil, and are the biggest landowner in Campanha. They control 40% of the domestic market in fine still wines and 15% of the sparkling wine market. The Miolo family dates their involvement in wine to the arrival of their ancestor in Bento Gonçalves in 1897, and his purchase of a 24-hectare vineyard plot known as Lote 43. For many years the family sold their grapes to co-ops. They started their own brand in 1991, with Merlot. They expanded rapidly, developing and executing on a tremendously successful business plan that has involved strategic partnerships. The wines produced from the Vale dos Vinhedos are sold under the Miolo label. The Miolo Winery is in a beautiful setting in the Vale dos Vinhedos, including a small lake. They were pioneers in the Campanha region, along the Uruguayan border, but wines from that region are sold under the name Seival. There are some very good wines here, at a variety of price points. My favorites were the Cuvée Giuseppe Merlot/Cabernet (92+ points), and a Cabernet with some age on it, 2006 Miolo Cabernet Sauvignon Quinta do Seival (92 points). I count seven different Miolo bottlings available in the U.S., including Lote 43 for $30. The 2015 Chardonnay is available for an average of $16. The Pinot and Pinot Reserva are available, along with both white and rosé versions of the Cuvée Tradition Brut. A Merlot is also available for $14.2011 Miolo Brut Millésimé Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosLight green-tinged yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; fresh, tart pear, apple nose; poised, tasty, creamy textured, tart pear, lime cream, green apple, mineral palate with medium acidity; long finish (50/50 Chardonnay Pinot Noir; 22 months on lees) 91+ points2006 Miolo Cabernet Sauvignon Quinta do Seival Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, CampanhaDark ruby color; black currant, cedar nose; tasty, youthful, black currant, tart berry, cedar palate balanced with lively acidity; medium-plus finish (13.5% alcohol) 92 points2013 Miolo Chardonnay Cuvée Giuseppe Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosLight yellow color; lemon curd, mango nose; medium bodied, rich, lemon gelee, mango palate with balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (10 months in oak) 90+ points2015 Miolo Chardonnay Reserva Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosLight yellow color; fresh, lemon, light passion fruit, pear cream nose; tasty, fresh, ripe lemon, light vanilla palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (12.5% alcohol; TA 5.6, pH 3.18; 20% in new American oak for 3 months) 91+ points2013 Miolo Cuvée Giuseppe Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaOpaque black red violet color; aromatic, black currant, red currant, cedar nose; tasty, tart black currant, cedar palate with sweet, fine tannins; could use 2 years and should go 15-20; long finish (60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon; 1 year in new French oak) 92+ pointsNV Miolo Cuvée Tradition Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosVery light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; almond, apple, pear nose; medium bodied, rounded, creamy textured, pear palate; medium-plus finish (50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir; 2013 tirage) 90 pointsNV Miolo Cuvée Tradition Brut Rosé Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosLight salmon pink color; almond, raspberry, chalk nose; medium bodied, golden raspberry, berry palate; medium-plus finish (50/50 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir) 88 pointsNV Miolo Grenache Bossa Nova Sparkling Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosLight pink color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; fruity, ripe red currant nose; creamy textured, tart red currant, tart red berry palate with medium acidity; medium finish (12% alcohol) 83 points2013 Miolo Merlot Terroir Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosVery dark red violet color; blackberry, black currant, berry syrup nose; blackberry, black currant, berry syrup palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish 89 pointsNV Miolo Moscato Brazilian Legends Girl of Ipanema Brazil, Vale do São FranciscoPale green-tinged yellow color; aromatic, lime, chalk, quinine nose; sweet, lime cream, fruit salad syrup palate with some acidity; medium finish 83 points2014 Miolo Pinot Noir Reserva Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, CampanhaMedium dark cherry red color; black cherry, beets, tart berry nose; black cherry, beets palate with balancing acidity; medium-plus finish 88 points2011 Miolo Quinta do Seival Castas Portuguesas Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, CampanhaOpaque red violet color; fresh, black raspberry, black cherry nose; medium bodied, tart red fruit, dried red berry, light cinnamon palate with good balancing acidity; needs 3 years; medium-plus finish (50/50 Tinto Roriz/Touriga Nacional) 89 points2011 Miolo Reserva Lote 43 Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosOpaque dark red violet color; aromatic, ripe black currant, blackberry, sweet green herb nose; medium bodied, ripe black currant, blackberry, black cherry palate with sweet tannins; should go 7 years; medium-plus finish (60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon) 90+ points2015 Miolo Sauvignon Blanc Reserva Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, CampanhaLight green-tinged yellow color; kiwi, light gooseberry nose; medium bodied, tart gooseberry, kiwi palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish 90+ points2011 Miolo Seival Sesmarias Fronteira Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Campanha, FronteiraVery dark ruby color; aromatic, ripe black currant, blackberry, violets, clove nose; tasty, creamy textured, flavorful, black currant, blackberry palate with sweet, fine tannins; long finish 91+ pointsNV Miolo Syrah Brut Rosé Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosLight pink color with abundant, steady, small bubbles; reticent, savory, tart cranberry, red berry nose; medium bodied, tart berry, roasted berry, beets, tar palate with medium acidity; medium finish (12% alcohol) 81 pointsNV Miolo Terranova Brut Brazil, Vale do São FranciscoLight yellow color with some steady, tiny bubbles; apple pie filling, orange blossom, ripe pear nose; medium-plus bodied, lush, creamy textured, baked pear, orange blossom palate with some balancing acidity; long finish (Moscatel; 7.5% alcohol) 89 points2013 Miolo Viognier RAR Collezione Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight lemon yellow color; poached pear, vanilla, white jasmine nose; tasty, poised, creamy textured, white jasmine, light vanilla, pear palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (1 year in French oak) 91 pointsPeriniBenildo Perini, center, flanked by sons Pablo (left) and FrancoThe Perini family came from the Veneto in 1876. They were a founding family of the Forqueta Co-op in Farroupilha in the 1920s. In 1970, they finally started making their own wines. They began focusing on fine wines in the 1990s. In 2006, Mario Geisse came on board as a consultant. Their production was then 70% vinho de mesa and 30% fine wine, but now the ratio is 60% fine wine and 40% vinho de mesa. Like Aurora and Miolo, they also produce some of the most delicious unfermented grape juice I have ever tasted a popular treat in Brazil. They have a total of 96 hectares under vine but buy most of their grapes from local families. They have several levels of wine, including a new low end Macaw label, designed for U.S. export; Casa Perini, which they started in 1996; and Perini, launched in 2012 for special projects, like the Quatro they introduced as an icon wine. I fail to understand why they are aiming to enter the U.S. market with a low end wine, albeit the Macaw has a colorful label. I very much liked a couple of their sparkling wines, but best of all were the unusual muscat based Licoroso Doce called Eden (93 points), the 2013 Perini Chardonnay Fração Única (92+ points) and 2012 Perini Merlot Fração Única (92 points).NV Perini Casa Perini Brut Rosé Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight pink color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; fresh, tart currant, cranberry, dried berry nose; tart cranberry, tart red currant palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir Gamay; 11.8% alcohol; good pairing with pizza and pasta) 85+ pointsNV Perini Casa Perini Edicao Especial Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaFrom magnum very light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; autolytic, savory, almond, chalk nose; autolytic, poised, almond cream, light hazelnut, tart pear palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (18 months in magnum) 91+ points2013 Perini Chardonnay Fração Única Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosLight lemon yellow color; aromatic, appealing, lemon cream, almond nose; delicious, poised, tart lemon cream, mineral, saline palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (12% alcohol; 3 months in French oak) 92+ points 2012 Perini Marselan Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaDark ruby color; savory, tobacco, reduction, tar nose; savory, tart red currant, tobacco, cedar palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (12.5% alcohol; no oak) 87+ pointsNV Perini Marselan Arbo Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaVery dark ruby color; aromatic, barbecue sauce, smoke nose; tart roasted plum, barbecue sauce palate with tangy, near medium acidity; medium finish (12% alcohol) 83 points2012 Perini Merlot Fração Única Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaVery dark ruby color; aromatic, cherry, cedar, red plum, ripe red currant nose; tasty, savory, tart red plum, ripe red currant, cedar palate with lively medium acidity; medium-plus finish (6 months in french oak) 92 points2013 Perini Merlot Macaw Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaMedium dark ruby color; plum, vanilla, blackberry nose; simple, fruity, berry, plum palate with some balancing acidity; short-medium finish (11.5% alcohol) 84 pointsNV Perini Perini Eden Vinho Branco Licoroso Doce Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaFrom 500 ml light medium yellow color; very aromatic, orange blossom, floral, pear cream nose; rich, creamy textured, pear cream, orange blossom, orange honey palate with some balancing acidity; long finish (16.5% alcohol; unusual blend of aged still muscat and muscat must) 93 pointsNV Casa Perini Prosecco Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, clean, pear, apple cream nose; tasty, clean, poised, tart pear, tart apple, orange blossom palate with medium acidity; long finish 91+ points2009 Perini Quatro Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaVery dark ruby color; aromatic, ripe black currant, blackberry, vanilla, blackberry syrup nose; tart black currant, dried berry, tart berry, tart apricot palate with near medium acidity; could use 1-2 years; medium-plus finish (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 10% Tannat, 5% Ancellata; 12% alcohol; 9 months in new French oak) 88 points2012 Perini Tannat Macaw Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaVery dark red violet color; tar, reduction, roasted black fruit nose; near medium bodied, tart plum, tar palate with medium acidity; medium finish (11.5% alcohol) 85 points2014 Casa Perini Solidário Brazil, Rio Grande do SulDark ruby color; savory, tart red currant, tart plum nose; savory, tart red currant, tart plum palate with near medium acidity; medium finish (12% alcohol; 50/50 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot) 85+ pointsNV Vinicula Perini Casa Perini Moscatel Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaPale green-tinged yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; orange blossom, floral, lime cream nose; tasty, orange cream, lime cream, mineral palate with near medium acidity; medium-plus finish (8% alcohol) 88+ pointsNV Vinicula Perini Moscato Arbo Valle Trentino Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaVery light yellow color with few, tiny bubbles; aromatic, tart orange cream, peach nose; tart peach, tart lemon palate with medium acidity; medium finish 86 pointsNV Vinicula Perini Moscato Casa Perini Aquarela Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaVery light pink color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; ripe raspberry, strawberry, ripe cranberry nose; sweet, creamy textured, strawberry, cream, strawberry yogurt palate with balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (blend of Moscato Branco, Giallo and Muscat de Hamburg; 7.5% alcohol) 87 points2014 Vinicula Perini Moscato Macaw Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight yellow color; clean, ripe pear, orange blossom, orange cream, pink grapefruit nose; clean, simple, ripe pear, pear syrup, peach palate with balancing acidity; short finish (11% alcohol) 85+ pointsPeterlongoriddling room in vast cellar at PeterlongoManuel Peterlongo, an engineer who came to Rio Grande do Sul from Trentino in 1887, developed an obsessive devotion to the goal of creating something to equal Champagne in Brazil. He was introduced to Champagne by a priest who had been brought from France to make sparkling wine locally. Eventually Manuel visited Champagne. His first effort was a methode traditionelle sparkler made from Muscat, in 1913. In 1915, he founded the winery, and by 1924, the year he died, he d finished supervising the building of a massive production and cellaring facility out of basalt bricks in the city of Garibaldi. He designed it to have a wind tunnel that not only helped keep the bottles cold but allowed them to disgorge bottles without special equipment. His son Armando took over from his father and continued the singular mission of producing both what they labeled as Champagne and Prosecco until 1965, when the winery was sold shortly before Armando s death. The quality of production then declined until the current owners, Luiz Carlos Sella and Adilson Luiz Bohatczuk, took over in 2002.The new winemaker is Daisy Tempass, who previously worked with Monica Rossetti. The winery owns 23 hectares of grapes, but they buy most of what they need to produce two lines of sparkling wine one that is aged 18 months en tirage and the other 36 months. They also produce 100,000 liters of charmat methode sparkling, mainly moscatel. I was impressed by both lines of methode traditionelle wines which they are allowed by treaty to sell in Brazil only, due to long historical use, as Champagne. Best of all were the Elegance Brut and Prosecco Brut, both 91+ points. (Separately, by treaty with Italy, producers who have long made Prosecco from the Glera grape in Brazil and Australia are allowed to sell it in their domestic markets only as Prosecco. For export, it has to be called Glera. )NV Peterlongo Elegance Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight lemon yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; very autolytic, hazelnut, tart pear, brioche nose; delicious, autolytic, brioche, almond, tart pear palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir; 36 months en tirage; 9 grams dosage inc d 20-year-old brandy) 91+ pointsNV Peterlongo Presence Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; autolytic, almond, pear, light brioche nose; tasty, tart apple, tart pear, mineral palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir; 8.5 grams dosage; 18 months tirage) 89 pointsNV Peterlongo Presence Extra Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight golden color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; lightly autolytic, pear, apple nose; tasty, poised, tart apple, white pear, mineral palate with steely medium-plus acidity; medium-plus finish (80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir; 4 grams dosage, 18 months en tirage) 90+ pointsNV Peterlongo Privilege Rosé Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight medium pink orange color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; blood orange, pink grapefruit nose; tart pink grapefruit, lemon, tart golden raspberry palate with intense medium acidity; medium-plus finish (100% Pinot Noir; charmat method, 3-4 months on lees; bottled in March) 88+ pointsNV Peterlongo Prosecco Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaVery light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; chalk, tart apple nose; tasty, bright, characterful, tart pear, ripe apple, mineral palate with vibrant medium acidity; medium-plus finish (reminiscent of Prosecco; 9 grams dosage) 91+ pointsPizzatoFlavio Pizzato in the vineyard top, Plinio Pizzato s home in the vineyards belowThe Pizzato family were grape growers until 1999, when they started the winery. Father Plinio Pizzato was the biggest grower of vitis vinifera in Vale dos Vinhedos, selling to Chandon Brazil and other labels. From 1985 to 1986, he was also the first to install VSP trellising. Son Flavio is the charming and philosophical winemaker. The Pizzatos are most famous for their well reviewed Merlots, but they make an astonishing variety of wines from sparkling to Chardonnay to plush reds, using unusual varieties like Egiodola and Alicante Bouschet. Their 2000 Merlot was named the best Brazilian wine by a Brazilian magazine, quickly turning it into Brazil s first cult wine.They produce about 250,000 bottles a year, 40% of which is sparkling. They own 26 hectares of vines in Vale dos Vinhedos, and have a second label, Fausto, based on grapes from the Fausto vineyard that lies 50 kilometers north. That label, launched in 2005, is primarily aimed at supermarkets. Flavio says he was inspired by Miolo, which he credits for having moved Brazil from very pedestrian wines to more internationally styled wines. He is an electrical engineer by education, but got practical experience making wine in Argentina. My favorite of the wines I tasted is the famous DNA 99 single vineyard Merlot (94 points). The Legno Chardonnay is also terrific, and the Brazil Wine Guide ranked it as the top white wine (93+ points). An Alicante Bouschet Reserva was also very good (92+ points).2009 Pizzato Alicante Bouschet Reserva Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosVery dark ruby color; very aromatic, sweet berry, smoke, herbal, clove, dried blueberry nose; medium bodied, clove, dried blueberry, dried berry, blackberry, papaya palate; long finish (13% alcohol; 11 months in French oak, 1st 2nd use) 92+ points2014 Pizzato Brut Champenoise Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosLight yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; ripe pear, apricot, ripe quince nose; medium-plus bodied, creamy textured, pear sauce, apple cream palate with some balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (87% Chardonnay, 13% Pinot Noir; 12% alcohol) 88+ points2014 Pizzato Brut Champenoise Rosé Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosLight medium orange color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; fresh, tangerine, orange melon nose; medium bodied, creamy textured, tangerine, ripe orange plate with some balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (82% Pinot Noir, 18% Chardonnay; 9 months sur lees; 12% alcohol; 8.5 RS) 88 points2013 Pizzato Cabernet Sauvignon Fausto Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosVery dark red violet color; savory, smoke, roast black plum nose; savory, smoke, roast black plum palate with medium acidity; medium finish (13% alcohol; 8 months in used American oak) 86 points2012 Pizzato Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Pizzato Vineyards Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosOpaque black red violet color; aromatic, black currant, clove, milk chocolate nose; tight, creamy textured, tart black currant, mocha, bittersweet chocolate palate; needs 2 years and should go 10+; medium-plus finish (13.5% alcohol; 11 months in American oak, 1st 2nd use) 91+ points2014 Pizzato Chardonnay Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosSlightly hazy light yellow color; aromatic, fresh, lemon cream, light vanilla nose; tasty, fresh, medium bodied, tart lemon cream, mineral, lightly saline palate with crisp medium acidity; medium-plus finish (13% alcohol) 91 points2015 Pizzato Chardonnay Fausto Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight, hazy, green-tinged yellow color; aromatic, fresh, ripe pineapple, passion fruit nose; medium bodied, citrus palate with near medium acidity; medium finish 87+ points2014 Pizzato Chardonnay Legno Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosLight medium lemon yellow color; aromatic, appealing, white jasmine, lemon cream, almond nose; medium bodied, luscious, almond, lemon cream, mineral, lightly saline palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus acidity; medium-plus finish (13% alcohol) 93+ points2010 Pizzato Concentus Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosSaturated very dark red violet color; aromatic, savory, milk chocolate, black currant, blackberry nose; tight, blackberry, black currant, smoke palate with some balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (70% Merlot, 15% Tannat, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon; 13.5% alcohol; 12 months in French and American oak, 1st 2nd use) 90+ points2010 Pizzato Egiodola Reserva Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosOpaque black red violet color; tar, ash, black fig, roast black fruit nose; intriguing, reduction, tart roast black fruit, tar palate; medium acidity; long finish (13% alcohol) 89 pointsNV Pizzato Fausto Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight lemon yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; pear cream, apple cream nose; flavorful, fresh, nectarine, orange cream soda palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (12% alcohol; 93% Chardonnay, 7% Pinot Noir; 8.5R RS) 88 points2012 Pizzato Fausto Verve Gran Reserva Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaVery dark ruby color; aromatic, chocolate, ripe black fruit nose; medium bodied, dark chocolate, black currant palate with some balancing acidity; could use 1-2 years and should go 8-10 years; medium-plus finish (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 20% Tannat; 100% new oak) 90+ points2011 Pizzato Merlot DNA 99 Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosSaturated very dark red violet color; savory, dried herb, tobacco, tart black currant, mocha nose; velvety textured, black currant, black fruit, mocha palate with acid lift; long finish (reminiscent of Masseto) 94 points2013 Pizzato Merlot Fausto Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaMedium dark red violet color; aromatic, ripe plum, berry jam, ripe boysenberry nose; tight, black fruit, berry palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (13% alcohol) 87 points2015 Pizzato Merlot Fausto Rosé Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight medium orange tinged pink color; aromatic, fresh, orange cream, raspberry, ripe papaya, strawberry yoghurt nose; tasty, fresh, juicy, papaya, tart orange cream palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (12.5% alcohol; pH 3.32) 91 pointsNV Pizzato Merlot Fausto Rosé Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaMedium pink color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; savory, tart plum, cinnamon nose; creamy textured, apricot, raspberry palate with some balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Merlot; 12% alcohol) 87 points2012 Pizzato Merlot Reserva Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosVery dark red violet color; aromatic, savory, roasted black fruit, smoke, charcoal, tarragon nose; medium bodied, tart roasted plum, tart black currant palate with medium acidity; could used 1-2 years and should go 8-10 years; medium-plus finish (13.5% alcohol; 11 months in French oak, 1st 2nd use) 91 points2012 Pizzato Merlot Reserva Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosFrom 375 ml very dark red violet color; aromatic, black fruit, black currant, roast coffee, Valrhona chocolate nose; tasty, black fruit, black currant, roast coffee, Valrhona chocolate palate with a sense of salinity and good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (13.5% alcohol) 92 points2013 Pizzato Tannat Fausto Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosVery dark red violet color; savory, smoke, roasted black fruit, pepper, charcoal nose; tasty, fresh, savory, smoke, roasted black fruit, pepper, charcoal palate; could use 1-2 years; medium-plus finish (13% alcohol) 88 points2010 Pizzato Tannat Reserva Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosVery dark ruby color; savory, roasted black fruit, smoke charcoal, chocolate nose; savory, roasted black fruit, smoke, charcoal, chocolate, reduction palate with near medium acidity; needs 2-3 years and should go 8-10; medium-plus finish (13% alcohol; 11 months in French oak, 1st 2nd use) 89 points2013 Pizzato Vertigo Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosHazy, light lemon yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; autolytic, almond, mango nose; creamy textured, pear cream, almond palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir; 12% alcohol) 89 pointsSaltonSalton is the third of Brazil s big three wineries. The company was founded in 1910, and they started producing sparkling wines in 1933. In 2005, they became the leading producer of sparkling wine, with 38 to 40% of Brazil s sparkling wine market. They make primarily charmat, but also a small percentage of methode traditionelle. They have almost 20 different labels. They launched their Classic line in 1990, and now virtually every store and restaurant in the country carries it. Half the wine purchased in Brazil is theirs. They launched the Talento line in 2004. Salton grows about 10% of the grapes they require, buying the rest from 500 families. They currently export to 20 countries. Their main markets in the U.S. are New York, Florida, Texas, Maryland and Illinois (i.e., states with large populations of Brazilians). My favorite of the wines we tried were a delicious 100 year old brandy created to commemorate the company s 2010 centenary (93+ points), the Chardonnay Virtude bottling (91+ points) and a lovely Pinot-based sparkling wine, Lucia Canae (91 points).The 2011 Salton Reserva Especial Tannat and 2013 Reserva Especial Cabernet Sauvignon are available at a few U.S. retailers, for an average of $16 and $14 respectively. The 2013 Salton Intenso Tannat (RJ88 points) is also available in the U.S. for an average of $16. The 2009 Salto Talento Tinto can be found at a couple retailers for an average of $30. And the NV Salton Flowers Demi-Sec White is the most widely available of their wines in the U.S., for an average of $12.NV Salton 100 anos Brandy Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosMedium amber gold color with .5 millimeter clear meniscus; aromatic, orange cream, honey cream, vanilla nose; creamy textured, mellow, almond cream, butter cream palate; long finish (35% alcohol) 93+ points2014 Salton Chardonnay Virtude Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, CampanhaLight yellow color; aromatic, lime, floral, pear nose; creamy textured, pear cream, white jasmine, lime palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (6 months with battonage in 100% new oak) 91+ points2011 Salton Gerações Paulo Salton Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosDark red violet color; lifted, black cherry, roasted cherry, roasted beets nose; characterful, black cherry, roasted cherry, roasted beets palate with near medium acidity; medium-plus finish (30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Malbec, 20% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc) 90+ pointsNV Salton Intenso Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosVery light yellow color with a storm of speedy, tiny bubbles; lime cream, green melon, orange blossom, white jasmine nose; tasty, creamy textured, lime cream, mineral palate with near medium acidity; medium-plus finish (70% Chardonnay, 30% Riesling Italico) 89 points2012 Salton Marselan paradoxo Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, CampanhaNearly opaque red violet color; fresh, savory, smoked berry, roasted berry nose; light-medium bodied, savory, tart roasted berry, tart raspberry syrup palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (no oak) 88+ points2011 Salton Merlot Desejo Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosDark red violet color; savory, roasted black fruit, black currant, smoke nose; tasty, savory, tart black currant, beet juice, light smoke palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (12 months in 100% new oak, 50% American, 50% French) 90 pointsNV Salton Moscatel Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaVery light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; almond, green melon, light lime cream nose; creamy textured, rounded, orange cream, lime cream, almond palate; medium-plus finish (7.5% alcohol) 90 pointsNV Salton Pinot Noir Lucia Canae Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaVery light pink color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, fresh, strawberry, raspberry, strawberry jam nose; tasty, medium bodied, creamy textured, raspberry, tart strawberry, dried strawberry, white chocolate palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (100% Pinot Noir; 8 grams dosage) 91 points2014 Salton Pinot Noir paradoxo Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, CampanhaMedium dark cherry red color; black cherry, blackberry nose; black cherry, berry palate with balancing acidity needing oak integration; medium-plus finish (13..5% alcohol; 6-8 months in oak, 100% new) 87+ pointsNV Salton Poética Brut Rosé Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaVery light orange pink color with abundant, speedy, small bubbles; golden raspberry, golden currant cream nose; juicy, orange cream, golden raspberry, golden currant cream palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay; 11.5% alcohol) 88 points2015 Salton Prosecco Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosVery light yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; appealing, fresh, lime nose; tasty, fresh, tart citrus, mineral, chalk palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (100% Glera) 88+ pointsNV Salton Reserva Ouro Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; lightly autolytic, almond, floral, green almond nose; fresh, creamy textured, almond cream, lime cream, mineral palate with good balancing acidity; medium finish (70% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, 10% Riesling Italico; 12 months lees contact, charmat method) 90 points2013 Salton Tannat Intenso Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Campanha, FronteiraVery dark red violet color; aromatic, blueberry, ripe berry nose; creamy textured, blueberry, ripe berry, blueberry cream palate; medium-plus finish 88 points2012 Salton Teroldego Intenso Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaNearly opaque red violet color; intriguing, savory, roasted beets, smoke, balsamic nose; tasty, roasted beets, balsamic, smoke palate with bright medium acidity; medium-plus finish (good pairing with a variety of veggie dishes and red meats) 90+ pointsValdugaNV Casa Valduga 130 Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosVery light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; autolytic, almond, tart pear nose; poised, creamy textured, pear, almond, palate with some balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (11 months en tirage) 88+ points2012 Casa Valduga Arinarnoa Identidade Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra do SudesteVery dark ruby color; tart red currant, dried cranberry, tar nose; tart red berry, tart red currant palate with medium-plus acidity; medium-plus finish (14% alcohol) 89 points2014 Casa Valduga Arte Tradicional Brut Rose Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosLight pink orange color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; aromatic, orange, tangerine, orange sherbet nose; creamy textured, fruit, orange sherbet, tangerine palate with some balancing acidity; medium finish (50/50 Chardonnay Pinot Noir; 12% alcohol; 12 months on lees) 86 points2010 Casa Valduga Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva Villa-Lobos Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos Vinhedos Very dark ruby color; reduction, roasted beets, plum, spice, cranberry sauce nose; medium bodied, spice, cranberry, spice, ripe damask plum palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (14% alcohol) 87 points2013 Casa Valduga Espumante Arte Brut Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos VinhedosLight yellow color with abundant, steady, small bubbles; autotlytic, apple cream, pear nose; medium bodied, pear, almond alate with some balancing acidity; medium finish (25 months on lees; 9 grams dosage) 85+ points2012 Casa Valduga Gran Raízes Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, CampanhaVery dark ruby color; reduction, smoke, red currant, tart beets nose; medium bodied, tight, tart red currant, red berry palate with medium acidity; could use 1-2 years and should go 5-7; medium-plus finish (13.5% alcohol; blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon Tannat; 12 months in new French oak) 86+ points2012 Casa Valduga Marselan Identidade Serra do Sudeste Brazil, Rio Grande do SulMedium dark ruby color; savory, roasted beets, salumi, smoky nose; smoky, savory, roasted beets, salumi palate with good, balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (13.5% alcohol; 8 months in French oak) 87 points2012 Casa Valduga Reserva Blush Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra GaúchaLight salmon color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; autolytic, chalk, tangerine nose; medium bodied, orange, tangerine palate with near medium acidity and sweet tannins with noticeable dosage; medium-plus finish (25 months on lees; 10 grams dosage) 85+ points2015 Casa Valduga Sauvignon Blanc Premium Raízes Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, CampanhaVery light green-tinged yellow color; aromatic, ripe grapefruit, pear syrup, menthol nose; fresh, ripe grapefruit, pear nectar palate with some balancing acidity; medium finish (12% alcohol) 86 pointsValmarino2013 Valmarino Tannat Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Serra Gaúcha, Pinto BandeiraOpaque red violet color; savory, roast veggies, chocolate, light smoke nose; tasty, medium bodied, chocolate, roast ripe black fruit with good balancing acidity and fine, sweet tannins; medium-plus finish (13.5% alcohol) 91+ pointsEmailFacebookTwitterPrintRedditLinkedInPinterestTumblrLike this:Like Loading... A lot of people I know refer to Whole Foods as Whole Wallet because of its relatively high prices on produce and other food items. I shop there regularly for health supplements and specialty foods I can t find elsewhere. I am finding, though, that their wine department, stocked with many relatively obscure organic and sustainably grown wines sourced by their buyers from around the world, does contain some relative bargains.When Whole Foods the 30th largest retailer in the U.S., with over 400 stores around the country, as well as in Canada and the U.K. recently offered to send me their Summer Top 10 Wines, currently on sale and highlighted with large display posters at local stores, I said I would be happy to receive and evaluate them. What arrived was a diverse group of wines four whites, five reds and one sparkler from literally all over the globe. A few came from producers I am very familiar with, but most are from makers I ve never heard of. The price range runs from $7 to $20.After tasting through this collection, which I scored from 86 to 91 points, I decided to apply a new QPR algorithm I ve been working on for awhile. I m calling it the RJ Quadruple P Scale, which stands for Price Per Premium Point. I started developing it a couple of years ago to try to evaluate large numbers of Champagnes and Bordeaux I had rated, to help me make recommendations that took into account both the price tags and my scores. I used the latest iteration of this scale to help me identify the best relative values amongst the over 200 grocery store Chardonnays I reported on here recently. I was hoping to come up with a very elegant formula that others could easily use to plug in a price point, but that goal has so far eluded me. The very simplest form of evaluating point scores by price is to divide the price by the point score. Such a simple ratio, however, fails to make vital distinctions between significantly better wines e.g., between those scoring, say, 87 points and those at the 92 or 93 point level.Instead, what I ve found most useful to date is a spreadsheet of values for point scores from 70-100, using a sliding scale of values based on the fact that premium points points above a score of 90, and again above scores of 93 and 95 are reflected by the market in the form of dramatically increasing prices.My current scale is still very much a working model, and I am open to suggestions for improving it. I ve tried to base the values and increments between the values on a rough notion of the market value of wines at various point scores. I ve aimed for a PPPP averaging $2 as representing a reasonable price for wine at different price points. For example, a price of $22 is not unreasonable for a wine rated 90 points, so I ve assigned a value of 11 to a 90-point score, yielding a price per premium point of $2 for a wine priced at $22. For wines of much lower quality, where the incremental price difference between a wine scoring, say, 81 points and 83 points is not that significant, the steps per half rating point are only .2. For very highly rated wines, the increments between half rating points go up dramatically starting at the 92 point level, so that is reflected in the value per point.Once I score a wine and then go to my spreadsheet for the value for that score, I then divide whatever the market price is for the wine by its value. That yields the Price Per Premium Point or PPPP score. As you ll see from the spreadsheet below, a 93-point wine gets a value of 18, so a wine with that score priced at $36 ends up with a PPP of $2. A wine scoring 96 points has a value of 40, so a wine costing $80 would also have a PPPP of $2. At the low end of the scale, a wine rated 82+ points would have a value of 1.6, so to get a PPPP of $2, it would have to be priced no more than $3.20.In the case of the Whole Foods Summer Top 10, the #1 wine after I apply the PPPP scale is a tasty, varietally correct New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, with bright balancing acidity and complex flavors. It would be a refreshing accompaniment to a variety of summer fare, especially seafood and white cheeses, and at a price of only $12, and therefore a PPPP of only $1.09, it represents a very significant value.My #2 wine on this list is a $7 Tempranillo from Spain s Castilla-La Mancha region, which resembles a decent Rioja with some bottle age on it. Its 87-point score at that price point results in a PPPP of $1.27. This would be a very drinkable and affordable pairing for everything from grilled veggies to lighter meats.My third place wine on this list is a decent Vinho Verde from an importer I have gotten to know well over the years, from having been on panels and at tasting dinners with him. Bartholomew Broadbent knows how to source good quality, well priced wine. Vinho Verde is a perfect summer wine for its bright citrus flavors and vibrant acidity. This one is priced at $9 which is reasonable for a Vinho Verde, although there are many others that generally run under $15. It will serve well as an aperitif or with salads and light cheeses of all kinds, as well as lighter seafood dishes.Number four gets my highest rating 91 points and also has an excellent PPPP of $1.31. It s a flavorful old vine Zin with good balancing acidity Valravn. This is a small project by the owners of Banshee Wines, based on dry-farmed bush vines ranging from 50 to over 100 years old. I ve seen this wine priced elsewhere at $20, which is still a good price, but Whole Foods currently has it for only $17. This is a wine that should age well for at least five years, so would not only complement this summer s barbecues and grilled meats, but could be lovely to open in cooler months over the coming years as well.The Chardonnay on the list Andover Estate Arroyo Seco comes in fifth for me based on its 89-point rating and excellent price, for good California Chardonnay, of $13. Whole Foods claims to have bought the entire production of this wine, so you re not going to find it elsewhere. It will be a crowd pleaser, and a versatile wine to pair with summer afternoons by the pool and a host of summer foods. The next two slots on my ranking go to wines that also have very good PPPP scores, well below $2: a very good Bandol Rosé from Bieler Père et Fils, and a varietally true Pinot Noir with good acidity from Macedonia. The former, at $20, is the highest priced wine of this list, but that s still a great price for a Bandol Rosé, since dry pink wines from this popular region have climbed to an average of over $30, and as much as $50 to $60 for some sought after producers. Whole Foods claimed that it bought the entire production of this tasty Rosé, so you won t find it elsewhere. The Pinot, on the other hand, is a bargain at $11, a very tough price point for a drinkable Pinot Noir, let alone one with good flavor and acidity like this one from Stobi Winery in Macedonia.There s also a Cabernet on this Whole Foods list that represents a good value at a PPPP of exactly $2. Priced at only $8, this Chilean Cab from Autoritas has good varietal character and food friendly acidity. It compares favorably to low priced Cabernets that I have tasted for my Grocery Store Cabernet Project, the results of which will soon appear here.The last two slots are weaker values based on my PPPP scale, both coming in at a PPPP of $3.25. But those who value convenience and portability in their sparkling wines might well find a lot of appeal in the 187 millimeter pop top can of bubbly from Prosecco producer Presto. Reportedly this is actually fizz that could have been bottled as Prosecco, but that, in a canned format, doesn t meet the DOC regulations for Prosecco packaging. As a tasty and refreshing addition to a picnic, however, it s hard to complain about the $13 price tag on this easy to carry and open sparkler.The wine I rank number 10 seems like less of a bargain at $13, given the quantity of similarly priced Italian Sangiovese based wines showing less oak and reduction than this red blend from Capezzana. All in all, I applaud Whole Foods for this diverse summer line up and the relatively bargain prices overall. Here s to a fun summer full of food friendly, balanced wines that don t burn a hole in our wallets.Here s a link to the spreadsheet displaying my PPPP scale: RJ PPPP scale for blog And I appreciate the work done by Robert Dwyer, The Wellesley Wine Press, in working toward a useful QPR tool: http://www.wellesleywinepress.com/2009/05/modeling-value-introducing-wwpqpr.htmlFor my complete tasting notes, scoring and pricing on each of these wines, see below:Whole Foods Summer Top 10#1 2015 Oya Pointe Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand, South Island, MarlboroughVery light yellow color; pyrazine, cat pee, tart grapefruit nose; juicy, tart grapefruit, light smoke, light green herb palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (13% alcohol) 90 points $12.00 PPPP:$1.09# 2 2011 Globerati Tempranillo Vino de la Tierra de Castilla Spain, Castilla-La Mancha, Vino de la Tierra de CastillaBlack-tinged dark red violet color; coconut, vanilla, plum, berry syrup nose; plum, berry syrup, coconut palate with some balancing acidity and good varietal character; medium finish (13% alcohol) 87 points $7.00 PPPP:$1.27# 3 NV Broadbent Vinho Verde Portugal, Minho, Vinho VerdeLight yellow color; lime, citrus, chalk nose; tart citrus, green apple, chalk, saline palate with refreshing medium acidity; medium-plus finish (9% alcohol; good summer sipper for $9) 88+ points $9.00 PPPP:$1.29#4 2014 Valravn Zinfandel Old Vine California, Sonoma CountyVery dark ruby color; reduction, briary, raisin, tart berry, spice nose; juicy, briary, berry, cherry, red plum, spice palate with balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (14.7% alcohol; good old vine Zin character for $17) 91 points $17.00 PPPP:$1.31#5 2014 Andover Estate Chardonnay Arroyo Seco California, Central Coast, Arroyo SecoLight lemon yellow color; lemon curd, almond, pear nose; creamy textured, savory, almond, pear palate with near medium acidity; medium-plus finish (13.5% alcohol) 89 points $13.00 PPPP:$1.44#6 2015 Bieler Père et Fils Bandol Réserve Rosé France, Provence, BandolLight orange pink color; savory, tart cantaloupe, tart strawberry nose; tasty, tart strawberry, cranberry, tart cantaloupe palate with refreshing medium acidity; medium-plus finish (50% Mourvedre, 40% Grenache, 6% Cinsault, 4% Syrah; 13.9% alcohol) 91 points $20.00 PPPP:$1.54#7 2015 Stobi Winery Pinot Noir Macedon Macedonia, Povardarie, TikvesMedium dark ruby color; cherry, raspberry puree, black cherry nose; juicy, light-medium bodied, cherry, black cherry, berry syrup, raspberry puree palate with near medium acidity; medium-plus finish (13.5% alcohol) 88 points $11.00 PPPP:$1.57#8 2015 Luis Felipe Edwards Cabernet Sauvignon Autoritas Chile, Central ValleySaturated, very dark black-tinged red violet color; savory, tart red currant, green olive, cedar nose; juicy, red currant, green olive, cedar palate with good balancing acidity; medium-plus finish (13.5% alcohol) 86+ points $8.00 PPPP:$2.00#9 NV Presto Sparkling Cuvée Vino Frizzante ItalyFrom 167 ml can Light yellow color with abundant, speedy, small bubbles; ripe pear, banana, apple nose tart pear, apple palate with balancing acidity; medium finish (11% alcohol; reportedly this is Prosecco, but Presto can t market it as such because DOC rules require Prosecco to be bottled) 86 points $13.00 PPPP:$3.25#10 2012 Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano Italy, Tuscany, Barco Reale di CarmignanoVery dark black-tinged red violet color; reduction, red currant, cranberry, coconut oil nose; juicy, red currant, cranberry palate with medium acidity; medium finish (blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon Canaiolo; 13.5% alcohol) 86 points $13.00 PPPP:$3.25EmailFacebookTwitterPrintRedditLinkedInPinterestTumblrLike this:Like Loading... 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