My Roman Apartment | reverse engineering the future

Time 2020-10-17 04:03:28

Web Name: My Roman Apartment | reverse engineering the future

WebSite: http://www.myromanapartment.com

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August 9, 2019 Before you start beekeeping, you must get ready. Not like emotionally ready, but actually prepared with the proper equipment and a basic education. Here’s my go-to check list for Beek Noobs.EDUCATION:honeylove.org is a non-profit organization run by beekeepers for beekeepers in Los Angeles. In addition to being the primary activists of bee legalization and pollinator protection in Los Angeles, they run one of the top urban beekeeping education programs in the world. They have classes for every level of beekeeper, so even if you just want to experience a hive tour or learn how to garden to help bees, they are a great resource.For people who live outside of Los Angeles, google “organic beekeeping” for your zip code to find a local bee club. Honey Love also has great advice on how to start your own club!SAVE THE BEES by Rob and Chelsea McFarland is the best resource for treatment-free (organic) backyard beekeepers, specifically urban backyard beekeepers who live in warm climates.THE COMPLETE IDIOT’S GUIDE TO BEEKEEPING is the only mass produced, basic beekeeping textbook that advocates for organic, chemical-free beekeeping.My favorite book about beekeeping is THE QUEEN MUST DIE by William Longgood. It is not a textbook, but it provides an excellent overview of the life of a hive over the course of one year and will make you sound so smart at dinner parties. It also reads like a page turner.Master Beekeeper Kirk Anderson is one of the best teachers of any subject I have ever had. He’s also hilarious. Check out the videos he made for his bee club (now known as Honey Love).I live in Los Angeles, so I always try to buy as many of my beekeeping supplies locally so my local beekeeping stores can stay open. Also, shipping heavy equipment like wooden bee boxes through the mail is just dumb if you can purchase those items in your area.That said, ALWAYS CALL IN ADVANCE to make sure these stores have what you need in stock. As a not very small lady who wears a men’s medium, it always sucks to drive all the way over, only to find that the store only carries size XXXXL men’s suits and gloves.The Valley Hive – 9633 Baden Ave, Chatsworth CA 91311 | (818) 280-6500 *Mention HoneyLove and they will donate 10% of your sale to this excellent non-profit!Pierce-Mieras Manufacturing – 2536 Fender Avenue, Ste. A, Fullerton 92831(714) 447-3855 (ask for “Ray’s Special” aka foundationless frames.Because I often have to work angry bees in 100+ degree temperatures, I am much more afraid of stroking out from the heat than I am getting stung to death. Fortunately, this ventilated mesh suit keeps me cool and is “sting-proof.” The only issue I have with this suit is the fencing-style veil that completely cuts off my peripheral vision, so now I know why bonnet-wearing pioneer women got stomped to death by livestock on the regular. This veil is extremely dangerous to wear when working on city rooftops or driving around on a farm. I have contacted Ultra Breeze about this and they have told me that they are experimenting with making a round veil that will zip onto their suits. So do me a favor and tell them you want a round veil too if you decide to buy this suit. If there’s a demand, they will make a safer veil.For new beekeepers I recommend getting a basic Inspector Jacket with a round veil. I wore this set-up for 10 years before I bought a full ventilated bee suit. I still wear this when I am teaching beekeeping classes so people don’t feel like they have to spend a huge amount of money on equipment (because you don’t).Gauntlets! I know, right? So much cooler than gloves. I personally like to work my bees barehanded because I am a klutz. Also, being able to feel the temperature of the hive and the vibrations of the bees is a good diagnostic tool. That said, I have a high pain tolerance and bee venom actually is the one thing that really helps my carpal tunnel. But for those days when I don’t feel like getting stung in the hands, I wear these gauntlets.I like how much coverage these gauntlets give me, I like that there’s a mesh panel to keep the crooks of my elbows from getting too sweaty, and I like that the goat skin is thick enough to be relatively sting-proof, but still flexible enough that it doesn’t completely destroy my hand dexterity. I also like that these gauntlets come in small sizes. Most bee gauntlets are sold “Open Sized,” which apparently means Men’s Size Large.Vegans (yes there are vegans who keep bees), people on a budget, and people with unusual hand sizes can buy extra thick rubber dishwashing gloves for hand protection. A committed bee will still be able to sting you through these gloves, but she will have to try hard to do it.DO NOT buy dark suede gloves at the hardware store as bee gloves, unless you want to experience a personal mass stinging event.Bees Knees are great, but Bee Cankles kind of suck. Protect your ankles and feet by wearing closed-toed boots or high-top sneakers. Clog-wearing chef clients, I am looking at you.I have terrible vision, so I have a variety of glasses for different activities, beekeeping included. Most optometrists will grind your sunglass lenses to your distance prescription because driving which means if you are far-sighted you will not be able to see detail on anything small like say small, stinging insects up-close. Yes, I could wear my reading glasses for beekeeping, but why increase my chance of macular degeneration by exposing my eyes to glare, when I can wear these.I prefer the Italian J-Hook style hive tool to the crow bar shape, but both are cheap and effective.I have tried smokers at all different price points and they all work the same. Buy the cheapest smoker WITH A CAGE that you can find. Cageless smokers are even cheaper, but after burning my hand approximately 451,273 times, I realized that I will never remember to hold the smoker by the bellows and not by the firebox, so buy one with a heat shield.Because I don’t want my car to smell like a brush fire, I use an old, 3.5 gallon, “designer popcorn” tin that I got for free to transport my smoker from job to job. Any large metal tin with a tight lid will work as long as it is big enough to fit the smoker. This is a good safety tool as well in the event there is a spare live ember hiding out in the smoker, waiting to melt the car upholstery. But you can also use a soft paint brush or feather to push your bees around.Although I fantasize about one day having the time to build a top bar hive, I only use Langstroth-style hives because they are standardized, easy to inspect, and easy to purchase locally.I take a lot of flack from commercial beekeepers who only use deep Langstroth boxes and frames. The scientific reason why deep boxes are superior to medium boxes is that there is a better ratio of bee space to wooden ware, so using all medium boxes is less efficient and may cut down on the amount of honey that my bees produce.That said, I have yet to meet a commercial beekeeper who did not have a bad back from lifting heavy bee equipment. When full of honey, a deep Lang box weighs 60 pounds. A medium Lang box of honey weighs 40 pounds. Since I cannot just back a forklift up to most of my hives, and I cannot safely lift a 60-pound, bee-covered box over my head, or carry it down a ladder one-handed, I use only medium boxes. It’s just safer that way.Also, since I only use medium boxes, my beekeeping set-up is much more modular. All my hive components fit together and I don’t have to ever think about matching frames to boxes. I recommend getting 4 medium boxes, 40 frames, and one top and bottom board per hive to start, but my hives can get up to seven medium boxes in height during peak nectar flow.So yes, buying more medium components is more expensive than buying deep components with a bigger capacity.To offset the cost of my medium woodenware, I buy my hive components locally from Los Angeles Honey Supply. To save money I buy B (haha) Grade (budget) woodenware, that is unassembled (meaning I have to nail everything together myself). It’s cheaper to buy unassembled hive components. Although I have to spend the time nailing everything together, my carpentry work is definitely better than the factory assembly. My hives and frames don’t break down as quickly, so my equipment lasts longer, saving me money in the long run.I don’t ever by foundation. Bees don’t like plastic and the wax stuff is full of pesticides. I let my bees draw their own comb to their personal specifications. However, I do try to convince my bees to make easy to inspect straight up and down comb in the frames so I install a starter strip. Jill s Paint in Los Angeles, stocks paint stirrers just for beekeepers that are the perfect size for making starter strips. If you live in a place like California, where commercial beekeepers have sided with the pesticide industry to make the use of feral bees illegal, check with your local bee club to find out who supplies them with bee packages. (Bee packages are a box of bees with a queen bee that you can have mailed to you through the US Postal Service, if you don’t live near a local bee breeder).And this is where I out myself as a member of the Beekeeping Underground.I EXCLUSIVELY use feral bees that I rescue from other people’s attics, bird houses, suitcases, shop vacs, compost bins etc In addition to saving bees from extermination, I get free bees, with excellent, healthy “mutt” genetics. My neighbors at Root Simple have an excellent write up of all the ways they source free bees. Beekeeping with feral bees is the yummiest way of breaking the law. #coolcriminalFor my personal harvests I use the crush and strain method. Here s an excellent tutorial on how to make your own DIY honey harvesting set-up from things you buy at the hardware store.

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