These Vagabond Shoes. Adventure and Travel on a Shoestring

Time 2020-07-23 05:10:32

Web Name: These Vagabond Shoes. Adventure and Travel on a Shoestring

WebSite: http://thesevagabondshoes.org

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Anti-racism is the commitment to fight racism wherever you find it, including in yourself. And that is the only way forward.Ijeoma OluoI m from a rural area in the northeast of Scotland, and I have spent my career working in conservation, environmental education, and countryside access across the UK, with the occasional diversion into nature tourism and outdoor recreation in the UK and Northern Europe. I write here about my interests in travel, the outdoors, expeditions at sea and on land, and connecting with nature.I occupy space in this world that is exceedingly white. I do not have to fight for my place in these areas due to the colour of my skin.While I like to think I am not racist, I m a beneficiary of the structural racism that winds through our society like bindweed, and that through my silence in not it calling out when I see it, I am complicit. It is vital we, as white people, start to see what has long been evident to Black people, however uncomfortable it may feel in the process; it s time to grasp the nettle.To start, we must educate ourselves. By being better informed, we can find a way to see more of the landscape that surrounds us, and be better allies to people of colour. We can start to open outdoor spaces that were once and are still exclusionary, and amplify the voices of those that are underrepresented in our fields.This is what I ve been reading this month:Racism and White PrivilegeWhy I m No Longer Talking to White People About RaceThe long-form article by Reni Eddo-Lodge that forms the basis of her eye-opening book of the same name.The history of British slave ownership has been buried: now it s scale can be revealedAn old Guardian article which probed the slave-owning history of Britain, and the legacy of fortunes made from the labour of enslaved people and the compensation for their emancipation. It ties into a two-part BBC documentary Britain s Forgotten Slave Owners, which is still available to view on the iPlayer.National Museum of African American History and Culture: Talking About Race PortalAn online portal providing articles and resources to help prompt conversations about racial identity and racism.So You Want to Be an Ally to Black People? Let s Talk About It.An informative blog post by Eulanda and Omo of Hey, Dip Your Toes In! laying out ways in which we can learn from, support, and advocate for the Black people in our lives, and ensure others aren t excluded from opportunities arising from our white privilege.Do the best you can until you know better. Then when you know better, do better.Maya AngelouTravel, Outdoors and Nature Why did white males get to have all the fun? : The long road to diverse travel writingJini Reddy talks writing which views the world through a different prism, and shares some of the works that influenced her.Five Ways to Make the Outdoors More InclusiveAn action plan for increasing diversity in the US National Parks system, and wider outdoor industry, working through barriers to access and offering potential solutions.Birding While BlackA powerful piece by ornithologist J. Drew Langhan that explores how living in fear as a consequence of race impacts on freedom and the opportunity to pursue the things one loves.How African American Soldiers Shaped the First National ParksThrough the history of Yosemite National Park, Nneka M. Okona tells how Black presence in the outdoors has been attenuated through intergenerational trauma and cultural baggage.Black Absence in Green SpacesAnthropologist Beth Collier gives perspective on the relationship Black and Asian people have with the natural spaces and rural settings in the UK.Diversity is not a Hashtag: An open letter to the outdoor communityThe outdoors is not a space free from politics. Experienced hiker Amiththan Sebarajah writes eloquently on why viewing the outdoors as an escape from confronting reality is a mindset of privilege.Whiteness in the OutdoorsRacism is Killing the PlanetIn this article Hop Hopkins tackles the legacy of white supremacy that impacts on working to resolve the global environmental crisis.Why Every Environmentalist Should Be Anti-RacistLeah Thomas introduces intersectional environmentalism and sparks a conversation on the need for anti-racism to be a cornerstone of climate and social justice.This is just a beginning. I understand that it will not be quick or an easy process, and there will be times where I get it wrong, but it s time to be idle no more. No lives matter until Black lives matter. The view from our doorstep. Looking from the accommodation building on Goudier Island to the historic Base A building at Port Lockroy in January 2020.The last three months have been a strange time for all of us, and certainly not what I d anticipated for my return from Port Lockroy. Reunions planned with friends and family were tempered by the COVID pandemic response, filtered through window glass and laptop screens, and those what next plans I d made were left on ice. Potential opportunities for future work drifted away over the horizon or sank without trace, and other responsibilities have surfaced in their wake.So despite an abundance of time that s been available during the lockdown, it s been exceptionally difficult to find the right mental space to reflect on my time in Antarctica at Port Lockroy.Part of that is the challenge of finding the right language to articulate all the experiences, thoughts, emotions, and ideas I felt in Antarctica, and distil down to something palpable, unmasked by superlatives that a place of such outrageous beauty demands. Over the 110 days of our stay, I took thousands of photographs, made several short films and sound recordings, and filled my journal and sketchbook with observations. But still, it sometimes feels as if the whole thing wasn t quite real.The sailing ship Bark Europa, moored up in the back bay under Jabet Peak, was one of the more unusual vessels visiting Port Lockroy during the season.It d taken a long time for me to reach Antarctica. I ve always been drawn to the region, at first through a fascination with the strange and unusual wildlife that make their home on (and under) the ice, then being captivated by stories of exploration and adventure. Growing up in northeast Scotland, the polar ship RRS Discovery, in drydock in Dundee, was practically on my doorstep, and the rough country of the nearby Angus Glens and Deeside served as a training ground for some of the first to venture South.I studied marine biology at university, holding a vague and undefined idea that it had the potential to take me there as a research scientist or in a support role at a base, however, the events of my life conspired to take me elsewhere. The cost of visiting Antarctica as a tourist was way beyond my reach, so I forgot all about the possibility for a while.Then, a few years ago, the idea popped up again. My job in environmental education had been made redundant following cutbacks, and after a summer sailing with Draken Harald Hårfagre in Norway, I needed a paying job. I started in the warehouse of a well-known online shopping company*, working 50 hour weeks stocking shelves as they approached their peak-sales period in November. I can honestly say I have never had a less enjoyable job, although my squat and stretch game was on fire.*That big river in South America. Not the Orinoco.Driving home one evening, shortly before the anticipated horror of Black Friday/Cyber Monday shopping, I heard a caller on the radio request a song for the team heading to Antarctica to work in the Penguin Post Office for the season. As soon as I was in the door, I d searched out the UKAHT website and worked out how to apply for the role. This was my way to go South.The ice-bound bay filled with brashy floes, making it impossible for zodiacs to land on the island and leaving us isolated.The goal had crystallised, but it wasn t a straightforward route to get there. When applications opened the following February, I submitted from Bermuda, days before setting out on a transatlantic sailing voyage. When we arrived in the UK a month later I didn t get the news I was hoping for, to be part of the 12 people invited to selection, but had an encouraging note from the Ops manager to tell me to keep applying for the role.In between other opportunities, following selection on my second time around, I got the call to say I d been successful. I d just been ashore to chat about moorings in Loch Spelve on Mull, for Irene, and had hopped into my wee tender, untied and pushed off. My phone rang as I was about to start the outboard, so I let myself drift out into the loch to take the call, hoping I didn t drift out of mobile reception before I got the official nod.The modern nissen hut that provided our home for four months, slowly revealed by thawing snow. On arrival, it was a high as the top of the door frame and we dug our way in.Collecting bergy ice for a freshwater supply early in the season. Most of our drinking water was provided by visiting ships, but when the ice closed in and ships couldn t visit, we melted ice.The thing about the opportunity that had appealed to me most was the prospect of spending an extended period in a location of which most people only get a snapshot glimpse. To be witness to the progression of time, the comings and goings of the wildlife, and the changing season in the far South.And that was undoubtedly the highlight of my time in Antarctica. Paying heed to changes in my surroundings: noting snowmelt or the scouring effects of excoriating wind; the swirling movement of ice floes riding on the tide; and the march of increasing day length, followed by returning night and star-filled skies as we tilted over the equinox. A muffled boom reverberating through the landscape, felt as a pressure wave in the ears as much as heard, as ice calved and crumbled from the glacier. Sculpted chunks of bergy ice which glowed with a blue luminosity, as if lit from within. There s an ethereal quality to the place.Then the more subtle captivating things: the shape and movement of clouds; scintillating sundogs and solar arcs; the feel of the wind, from a gentle caress to a knife-sharp slash, the ever-changing play of light and shadow over the landscape. Moments that leave one consistently undone by the beauty of it all.Don t stand so close to me. A fine example of the projectile defecation of penguins. I believe there are even some papers written on why? and even how far?The colony surrounding the Stevenson screen at the highest point of the island.And of course, the wildlife. The ceaseless cacophony of life in the penguin colony. Watching penguins on the island, getting to know them by their nesting locations, and following the progress of a pair, it was hard not to anthropomorphise. Or to foist a unilateral emotional bond upon them. Their swaying, tottering gait, stumpy little legs and rounded tummy, and naïve inquisitiveness around us seem to recall human toddlers, and invoked a secret desire in me to name them all.Even so, living amongst penguins for any time, happenings in the colony show us any human connections we suppose to these creatures are tenuous. At first glance they re putting on a chaotic avian comedy show; curious chicks playing with our buckets and brooms, throwing back their wings and chasing adults for food, always demanding more. Taking to the water for the first time, with none of the natural grace one would expect of a sea creature.The blatant thievery and cheating in the colony contributes to soap opera levels of drama.The chicks are in equal measures adorable and infuriating, especially if you re trying to transport a 20kg cylinder of propane from sone side of the island to the other, and the priority is to create minimal disturbance to their activity (mainly napping).In reality, we watched a wholly unsentimental and more elemental existence: newly hatched chicks huddle in nests constructed with bones from ill-fated siblings of previous years; adults voiding excrement on each other, from nests highest on the rock to those below, sheathbills swooping in to eat the debris; the lurking threat of predators from the skies and the depths. Witnessing the awesome and grotesque cycle of life and death on a daily basis, alternately heartwarming then heartbreaking, always fascinating, is part of the unique Antarctic experience.At the creching stage, the chicks become bolder and venture away from nests to form small gangs and await a parent to arrive with a regurgitated krill meal.Though they demand the most attention, penguins are not the only creatures that leave an indelible mark on the memory. Other birds, sleek Antarctic terns, the colour of low cloud on a soft day, and skuas, ever-observant to opportunities to pillage the penguin colonies. Sheathbills, our curious companions with their only-a-mother-could-love appearance, and monstrous giant petrels, their apparent cruelties to distressing to note here.The uncanny song of Weddell seals, lounging on an ice floe in the back bay. The lurking menace of leopard seals, conducting secret surveillance of the shallows, waiting to surge ashore and snatch the unwary. A boulder, almost the size of a small island, that yawned deeply and transformed into a bull elephant seal.On still days, when fog lay like a felt blanket over the natural harbour obscuring views of peaks and pinnacles of Wiencke Island, immediate sounds were dampened, amplifying the roaring silence that lay behind. The raucous colonies of penguins and blue-eyed shags muffled long enough to pick out the saltwater signals of whales taking their breaths in the silky, quicksilver water of the bay; two, no three humpbacks scouting the deep water channel on the inside of Lecuyer Point, or a lone minke making its way between the improbably named islands of Boogie and Woogie.Graffiti on the rocks of Goudier Island, left by the sailors and whalers of the Solstrief in 1912, one of the largest factory whaling ships to work Antarctic waters.Port Lockroy is a rare place in Antarctica, a tiny island where the human story of the continent is writ large. Around us was the evidence of the whalers that followed the ships of the Heroic Age of exploration South, through to Operation Tabarin and the construction of Bransfield House/Base A, at the time when international relations on the ice were strained, and politics pushed to the fore. Then the era of science, where the continent was transformed into a vast laboratory of measuring and monitoring, revealed by the artefacts and oral histories of the museum, to our current-day experiences of expedition tourism and bucket-list travel.Base A, the first permanent British base established on the Antarctic Peninsula, and now home to the Penguin Post Office and museum.The incongruity of the galley view.The wealth of stories continued with the people we met throughout the season, both face-to-face and through correspondence delivered to the Post Office. Previous Lockroy team members, experienced field guides and expedition leaders, research scientists, and former and current staff of both the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust and British Antarctic Survey passed through Goudier Island during the season, enriching our understanding of the place and welcoming us to the Antarctic family like we already belonged, allowing us to become part of the ongoing history of the place.Port Lockroy is reported to be one of the most visited sites in Antarctica, and while this season proved to be far from usual, we still welcomed thousands of people into our small world, and helped them pass on their share of wonder and awe written on the back of a postcard.Postcards cancelled and packaged, ready to start their journeys around the world.Finally, all that remains is to say what a privilege it was to share such a profound experience with an incredible team of people, who started the season as my work colleagues and after four months of living in each other s pockets, are firmly life-long friends. Sitting together on a golden afternoon by the landing site, once the day s guests had gone, watching for the blown spray and flashes of tail flukes across the Neumayer Channel, listening to the snapcracklepop of melting icebergs, and toasting our luck with gin gifted by the crew of a superyacht and tonic scrounged from our favourite hospitality manager. Or huddled together in a cuddlepuddle under blankets and duvets to watch a film as sleety rain-lashed windows and storm-force winds shook the very building around us. These are the moments I ll cherish most.The awesome 19/20 season Port Lockroy team. Photo Credit: UKAHTAn icy evening spotting arcs and sun pillars in nacreous skies and shimmering reflections by the landing site.Standing on the aft deck of the ship that would take us back to Ushuaia I could feel the undeniable magnetic pull from our island, tucked under the sheer rock and ice of Mount Luigi and the Seven Sisters, then a sudden snap as we rounded the headland and Port Lockroy was lost behind the rise of Doumer Island. I think a little piece of my heart was left behind.By endurance we sauna.It wasn t actually cold enough to justify all those clothes on that day. Taken as part of a photoshoot wearing our branded gear and items for sale in the shop.Extracts from this piece were first published as posts on the UKAHT Port Lockroy blog. Some of the things that have captured my attention over the past few months, inspired by similar blog posts by Alex Roddie and Chris Townsend. A collection of interesting, thought-provoking, and beautiful readings from around the internet that I want to share with you.Nature and the OutdoorsThe true story of the White Island eruptionThe volcanic eruption of Whaakati / White Island in December 2019 was truly shocking. In this essay, Alex Perry examines the events to challenge our perception of risk in the outdoors.Darkness gets to be itselfSarah Thomas s country diary mirrors my own star-seeking night walks early in the lockdown period, before the northern summer nights encroached.The TGO Challenge: In the beginningInstead of taking part in the 41st TGO Challenge in May, I joined the virtual challenge on social media, and enjoyed this dive into the history of the event from Chris Townsend.A Very British BogRonald Turnbull reminisces about the land left untrodden while we are in lockdown with a wander through the bogs and flows of the British Isles.Nature s PartyA lovely post by Ramblers Scotland President Lucy Wallace, about finding joy in noticing the small things about the turning seasons.How the Slow Ways project network could change walking in BritainDuring lockdown I contributed to the Slow Ways project by mapping a series of routes in Scotland. This article introduces the initiative to a wider audience.EnvironmentThe sound of icebergs meltingAn acoustic exploration of solastalgia, the pang of future loss of astonishing natural beauty in a rapidly changing environment, in the Antarctic, revealing how listening can be seeing.Anatomy of a heatwaveThese times are certainly unprecedented. While I was in Antarctica, and the rest of the world was waking up to COVID-19, the continent experienced extraordinary temperatures.Rising tides, troubled waters: the future of our oceansA deep dive into the history and the uncertain future of our global oceans in a warming world.The frontier couple who chose death over life apartThrough the tragic story of the Bealers, Eva Holland explores the idea of control and choice over a time and place to die in this thoughtful essay.First Class, Business Class, Working ClassA deeply honest piece by Jamie Lafferty about being the outsider in your chosen career, and finding that success is balanced on a knife-edge.SolitudeA powerful piece of writing by Ursula Martin about the slowly unravelling monotony of life in lockdown.What the coronavirus can teach us about hopeThis essay by Rebecca Solnit dissects the foundation rocking clarity brought by the COVID-19 pandemic, and optimism for the future as connections are rebuilt. Where I ve beenWell, like most of us, the answer for this season is nowhere much.The sun rising from the North Sea in early April. Taken from the end of the garden at my parent s house while in lockdown in the UK.I returned to the UK from Antarctica in mid-March, via Ushuaia and Buenos Aires, before spending a week in Cambridge to wrap up the season for the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust. We reached the UK just as international travel restrictions came into place, and followed the difficulties that our friends on ships faced from afar.It was a challenging couple of weeks as we reconnected to the rest of the world and remembered how to do all the little everyday things that had been absent from our lives over those 110 days. On top of that was the added strangeness of adjusting to our new normal in the time of corona, and it now feels like it was just a lucid dream.I headed up north to my parent s place in Aberdeenshire, where I could live in the caravan at the end of the garden and be useful while they shielded my elderly granny in the house. Reuniting with family wasn t the hugs and long conversations I d imagined, but waving through the window as I stood outside in the garden, and chatted through WhatsApp.The limits of my lockdown home.The COVID-19 lockdown in the UK was put in place the day I arrived home, and I ve been here ever since.What I ve doneOver the Easter weekend, I took to the garden for a few nights of camping out. As well as being up to watch the sunrise and listen to the dawn chorus, it also prompted me to finally get round to fixing the slow puncture in my air mat.Watching the sunrise and listening to the dawn chorus in a garden camp-out on a chilly April morning.I ve been really fortunate in that I live in a rural area, and have plenty of opportunities to get outdoors for exercise and to explore the nature on my doorstep. I ve got a blog post in the works about that, which should go live at the end of June to include notes about #30DaysWild.I used my time to volunteer for the Slow Ways project, an initiative to create a network of walking routes connecting settlements. Walking has immense benefits for health and wellbeing, for individuals and for communities, and integrating it into everyday life is a positive solution towards tackling the climate and ecological emergencies. I mapped around 50 routes in northern and northeast Scotland to contribute towards a total greater than 100,000km.In mid-May, I should have been taking part in the 41st TGO Challenge, to cross Scotland from west to east. I d decided on a more challenging route than last year, starting in Morar and taking in more hills on the way to Montrose. Instead, I joined with other would-be challengers in the first-ever #virtualTGOC, sharing stories and pictures from the last 40 years of the event and gathering inspiration for future years in the hills.I was rather late to the sourdough party, but I was given a starter at the end of May and started to experiment. My first loaf could have done with a hatchet to break through the crust, but my cinnamon buns (Norsk kanelboller) were pretty good, and my rosemary and garlic focaccia was next level. The rising dough, ready for shaping. Garlic and rosemary focaccia, with rosemary from the garden. Fresh Norwegian cinammon buns and coffee for breakfast. Sourdough plait filled with garlic and homemade pesto. The pesto filling was made with rocket and nettles from the garden. Around the same time, I was able to find work locally, starting as a fruit picker on a nearby farm. It s not what I would choose to do, but at the moment it s something, and will help to tide me over until my next opportunity for working or travelling is realised.Life in plastic. Working in the polytunnels on the farm.My Spring love listBook: With the extra time available, I ve finally read several of the books that were lingering in my to be read pile for some time, including most of these. My favourite read so far this year has been Horizon by Barry Lopez.Magazines: I ve recently discovered Sidetracked magazine, which combines incredible adventure and outdoor photography with inspired long-form storytelling. Dipping in for a read is pure escapism.A few of my favourite thing from this Spring.Film: Like everyone else, I ve watched quite a few films during the lockdown. The one I d most like to recommend was the incredible Climbing Blind, a documentary about Jesse Dufton as he aims to be the first blind person to lead a climb of the Old Man of Hoy, a sea-stack in Orkney. If you re in the UK, you may still be able to catch it in the iPlayer.Clothing: I really haven t been wearing a great variety of things over the last couple of months. I ve mainly been alternating between my fancy Seasalt pyjamas and Port Lockroy hoodie, and my running gear. It s pretty strange wearing proper clothes again. And shoes, woah!Equipment: Spending so much time on my own has been strange, after sharing the close living conditions of Port Lockroy and the even closer conditions on Irene of Bridgwater. I think its the quietness I find the hardest, so I love having the radio on in the background. I treated myself to a Roberts Play DAB digital radio, to make sure I can get BBC6Music as I read or write.Before leaving for Antarctica I ordered a new case for my laptop but didn t factor enough time for delivery. So on my return, I had a fabulous parcel waiting from Makers Unite, an inspiring Dutch social enterprise working with people from refugee backgrounds, teaching skills in product design and manufacture. My laptop case is made from recycled lifevests that were used in migrant travel.Treats: It s been hard avoiding the temptation of endless snacking during lockdown, so I ve been making a conscious effort to be aware of the cookies, cakes, and chocolate I ve been consuming. I ve been setting a target of no sweet snacks until mid-afternoon, then stopping whatever I m doing to make a pot of my favourite Russian Caravan tea to go with the treat.Sticky and delicious cinnamon buns.What have you been up to over the last season? How has being in lockdown affected you?I m always here if you want to chat or leave a message in the comments below;I d love to hear from you.This post contains some affiliate links.  If you purchase through my link, I ll make a small commission* on the sale at no additional cost to you.  These help me continue to run the site, providing tips and advice, and sharing stories from my adventures.  Thank you for supporting me.*Maybe enough for a coffee.  Not enough for a yacht. At 1,038 metres (3,547 ) Schiehallion isn t especially close to Ben Nevis in height, but it is certainly one of the most iconic Munros. The distinctive, near-symmetrical profile of the mountain attracts hikers from both home and away looking to experience the great outdoors, and it s a great choice for first time Munro baggers.The view from the western end of Schiehallion, looking along Loch Rannoch to Rannoch Moor and Glencoe. In clear conditions, it s possible to pick out Ben Nevis.SchiehallionIn the heart of Highland Perthshire, close to the very centre of Scotland, Schiehallion has the reputation of being both one of the most mysterious of Scotland s mountains, and the most measured. The name Sidh Chailleann translates from Scots Gaelic as the fairy hill of the Caledonians , and it s not difficult to find traces of folklore and superstition on the slopes of Shiehallion.Reach the summit on a summer evening, and you ll be enchanted by views of Loch Tummel and Loch Rannoch stretching out towards the vast blanket of Rannoch Moor in the gloaming. Descending through the dusk you ll catch mysterious sounds reverberating across the hillside: secret whisperings of the wee folk, or magical drumming snipe and roding woodcock?The first glimpse of Schiehallion appearing through the trees on the road from Loch Rannoch.Planning my routeI was taking part in the 2019 TGO Challenge, a coast-to-coast crossing of Scotland on foot, and wanted to include a few mountains on my route from west to east. As it happened, dropping a few planning pins into my ViewRanger map put one close to the peak. After a few days of low-level walking, I reckoned I d be limber enough to take on the mountain and make a west-to-east traverse of Schiehallion.From the east and west the peak looks like a perfect pyramid; from north and south, a long whaleback ridge with a more gentle rise to the top. It stands in isolation, easily picked out on the skyline ahead of me as I left Glencoe and crossed Rannoch Moor.Schiehallion TraverseStart Point: East Tempar Farm*Finish Point: Braes of FossDistance: 10kmHiking time: 4 hoursDifficulty: ModerateMap: OS Explorer OL49*Note: There is nowhere to leave a vehicle at East Tempar. Parking is available at Braes of Foss carpark (approx. 7km on the road) or in Kinloch Rannoch (approx. 3.5km on the road). I walked along the road from Kilvrecht Campsite, approximately 9km.Go slow, baby lambs. Life moves pretty fast. If you don t stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it. Sign on the roadside at East Tempar.The glorious May weather had stayed another day, so despite not being in any particular rush to get underway, I d been up since 6am with the sunshine, packed my tent (shaking off drifts of tree pollen that had accumulated through the previous evening), loaded up with drinking water, and hit the road to get to my starting point for 9am. Find a route map on my ViewRanger.From East Tempar Farm a hill track rises gently through sheep pasture, gaining around 350m in a little over two and a half kilometres, to the base of the towering west flank of the mountain. The track continues on to the tumbledown shielings at the col at the head of Gleann Mor, the dale between Schiehallion and the Can Mairg hills to the south.Gleann Mor is reputedly just as magical as the mountain that looms above. According to legend, the fairies of Schiehallion make their home in Uamh Tom a Mhor-fhir, a cave in the upper reaches of the glen, and the doors leading into Elfhame (fairyland) marked by tussocks of white heather.There might be little real evidence of fairies on Schiehallion, but the region wears its history close to the surface. Old shielings are a reminder of the traditional cattle grazing way of life in highland glens, and traces of hut circles and ancient cup-and-ring marked rocks a connection to a more distant and mysterious past.Hillside haggis tracks in the heather.My route led upwards, over rough ground cut only by deer tracks contouring the slope. I snapped a couple of quick pictures, along with some of some grouse droppings, to perpetuate the haggis myth with which we were teasing my French and Romanian crewmates. Haggis is un cochon d Inde écossais indigène. C est vrai. True fact.There wasn t a breath of wind when I reached the first boulder field, a patch of fractured quartzite exposed amongst the heather tussocks and spongy lichens. Higher above, the first false summit of my climb marked the point where the vegetation began to yield to the rock, with just sparse turf between the boulders.The summit. Or is it?The Schiehallion ExperimentThe splendid isolation and arresting symmetry of Schiehallion caught the attention of the Royal Society as a place to observe the attraction of mountains . In the summer of 1774, Astronomer Royal Nevil Maskylene and surveyor and mathematician Charles Hutton gathered data on the tiny deflection of a pendulum against the position of the stars, revealing the gravitational pull of the mountain.Between astronomical observations and a survey of Schiehallion’s shape and composition, the experiment provided evidence of Newton’s theory of gravitation, and of the density and shape of the entire planet. During the development of the experiment, Hutton pioneered the concept of contour lines to show relief in cartography, helping me greatly with my TGO challenge route planning.The Schiehallion experiment is commemorated by a plaque at Braes of Foss, and the eagle-eyed can spot the footprints of Maskylene s parallel observatories on the north and south flanks of the mountain.The SummitInto the boulder field proper, the true summit rose up behind the last false peak, identifiable this time by the small gathering of people on the rocky outcrop. Tucked into hollows on the northern side of boulders were tiny patches of snow, none larger than my backpack, holding on in the 20°C heat. I scrambled up the last six or seven metres to the top, and turned to take in the view that had been at my back during the climb.From the summit, I could see across the Tay Forest and Loch Tummel to the Beinn a Ghlo in the east, south to Ben Lawers, and north to Ben Alder. But the view to the west was the best. The eye skims along the shining surface of Loch Rannoch into a golden-blue haze over Rannoch Moor. On the edge of visibility, I could just make out the Black Mount and Glencoe, where two days ago I d caught my first glimpse of this peak.I took a long break to rehydrate, and devoured a packet of Tuc sandwich biscuits that were by now mostly cheese-flavoured dust. This won me the friendship of a springer spaniel called Saoirse, waiting with her dog-dad for the rest of the family to join them at the top. I hunted around and found the spiral carving in the rock. More likely a modern addition than ancient art, but still a reminder that for many the mountains are spiritual spaces.DescentThe route across the boulder field was indistinct, but the following the ridge easterly with the natural compass of the sun was moving in the right direction. Skipping over the loose rock in the boulder field for a couple of kilometres, trying unsuccessfully to pick my way along Saoirse s chosen route, I found a worn track and reached the top of the path. The way down was much simpler than the way up, dropping down the flank of the mountain on a well-surfaced route.I reached the carpark at Braes of Foss in mid-afternoon, glad to be able to refill my water supply and find a spot of shade for a cuppa and spoonful of peanut butter. It had been another long, draining hike in the sun. I still had another few kilometres to go to reach the end of my planned route for the day, to the access road for Foss mine, where I was to meet my lift.On the way round the road, I decided that the TGO Challenge could wait for another day, and rescheduled my rest day for the next morning. I d take the chance to buy some sunblock, and just enjoy the shade for a while. It was a real treat to get into Pitlochry that evening, pick up a takeaway and some cold beers, and sit in the garden of my friend s house celebrating reaching half-way across Scotland on the top of that magical mountain.Schiehallion East PathStart / Finish Point: Braes of Foss carpark (£2/full day)Distance: 10km returnHiking time: Usually between 3 and 4 hours (depending on how long you enjoy the view for!)Difficulty: Easy to moderateMap: OS Explorer OL49Most hikers visiting Schiehallion follow a different route to the one I took, starting and finishing in the carpark at Braes of Foss, and following the East Schiehallion path. In a rare case of mountain rescue, where the mountain itself was the casualty, the path was constructed by the John Muir Trust to manage erosion and protect delicate vegetation on the lower slopes of the mountain. Find a route map on my ViewRanger.A plaque commemorating the Schiehallion Experiment by Nevil Maskylene and Charles Hutton at Braes of Foss, with the mountain behind.The route is clear and obvious, though there is no waymarking, tackling the east ridge of the mountain in zigzags that avoid expanses of bog but still gives hikers glimpses of wildflowers and bog plants. The area is also home to wildlife like red deer, black grouse, and ptarmigan.After around 3.5km the path reaches the boulder field on the top of the ridge.  Here the route is undefined to the summit, crossing loose rocks and scree, so care and attention to navigation is needed over the final 2km, especially if visibility is reduced.Incredibly, thanks to an initiative by the FieldFare Trust, the first third of the route has been approved as wheelchair-friendly, with the remainder of the route to the summit deemed accessible at an individual s discretion, making Schiehallion the first wheelchair-accessible Munro in Scotland.Descend by retracing your steps to the boulder field to the path, and return to the carpark.Starting to feel the power of the sun. Walking in the mountains needs preparation for all weather conditions.What to wear for hiking in ScotlandThough the warm, windless conditions on the day of my hike suited shorts and a t-shirt, that s not what I would usually recommend for a day in the Scottish mountains. The best clothes for hiking are thin, quick-drying layers, and well-fitting, supportive boots.The temperature can be quite different once you reach the summit, and a good rule of thumb for planning is that for every 300 metres (1,000 ) it will be around 2°C colder. On a windy day, this will feel even more.Walking trousers are robust but breathable, and usually have good pockets for gadgets and snacks. Shorts will normally be ok in fine weather, but if you re going to venture off the beaten path and bash through the heather it can be uncomfortable. Gaiters will help protect your trousers and keep them dry and clean. They also double up as a dry mat for sitting on the ground when you stop for breaks.A waterproof jacket and pair of trousers are always a good idea in Scotland. Even if there s no rain in the forecast, conditions can be unpredictable, and a waterproof layer can break the chill of the wind.A fleece or light sweater will keep your core temperature toasty when you reach the top. A warm hat, buff and pair of gloves will be useful in most conditions, but don t underestimate the sun. There s no opportunity to escape into the shade on most Scottish mountains. A broad-brimmed hat and something covering your shoulders could be important in summer to prevent heat exhaustion.What other equipment will you need?A backpack to carry your gear (with a waterproof cover)A map and compass (and GPS)Walking poles optionalA good supply of water and snacks.Tips for solo hikingBe prepared for the hike with the right clothing and equipment.Plan your hike in advance, and work out the time you will need, factoring in breaks on the way.Always take a map and compass, and know how to use them. Even if you use a GPS.Tell someone where you are hiking, and remember to let them know once you re back safe. Five fun microadventures you can make from your own home, suitable for all ages.Are you familiar with the idea of microadventures? Adventure isn t all about faraway locations and uncharted territories. Or about being the highest, furthest, fastest at anything.It s about the spirit in which you undertake something. It s being open to new experiences, approaching things with a curious and inquiring mind, and making your own fun and rewarding challenge. And a microadventure is just that, on a simple, local scale. And while we re restricted in the things we can do right now, a new activity in a familiar place can be exactly what you need to feel refreshed and excited, and keep your fire for the great outdoors well stoked.The simplicity of these ideas also make them an ideal way to introduce adventures to your family, even with very young children, and nurture an appreciation for nature and the outdoors to last them a lifetime. And by keeping them close to home, there s plenty of opportunities to bail out if things don t go to plan, or to make a spontaneous change to an everyday routine.So here are five of my favourite microadventures that don t mean roaming far from home.Garden WildcampingSleeping in an unusual place is almost a determining factor for an adventure. Out in the garden, you ll become more aware of night-time sights and sounds, and the change in light from night to day, as the world around you begins to wake-up. Make sure you can get comfortable and cosy, otherwise it will become an endurance challenge rather than a fun adventure.If you are used to sleeping in a tent, try a night in a bivvy bag for a different experience, and if don t have a garden, try pushing back the furniture and pitching a tent indoors or making a bivvy on a balcony. If there s no room for tents, then a good old blanket fort is great fun.Pitching a tent at the end of the garden for a wild night out.Waking up to a silvery dawn over the North Sea.Breakfast BirdwatchingThis activity fits in quite nicely with a night outdoors. Take an hour, or as long as you can, in the morning to look and listen for the wild birds that visit your area. Hanging birdfeeders are brilliant to tempt them closer, but it can take a few days for birds to find new ones, as are water baths. Make a picnic breakfast to enjoy in the garden, or watch from a window. A set of binoculars and an ID guide will help you to get to know the regulars.Settling in with a coffee and a book to listen to the dawn chorus.Watching birds dart in and out of the gorse bushes, and soaking in their heavenly scent.Everest AnywhereIf you re missing a fix of physical activity, this is the adventure for you. Using the stairs in your building or garden, measure the height and multiply that to find the number of times you d need ascend to scale the magnificent height of Everest (8448 metres or 27,717 ). That will take quite some time, so there s always an alternative available, such as Ben Nevis (1,345 metres or 4,413 ), Snowdon (1.085 metres or 3,560 ), or your local favourite hill.There s no such thing as bad weather, only the wrong clothes. So grab yourself a sexy raincoat and live a little.Billy ConnellyWild Wet Weather WalkHow often do we look out the window at wild and windy weather and decide to stay indoors? But embracing the elements can provide an unexpected thrill. Get kitted out in the appropriate gear, and you can dance in the rain, get buffeted in the breeze, and roll around in the snow. Plus it makes coming inside for cosy evenings feel that much more deserved.I live by the coast in northeast Scotland, so if I waited for fine weather to go outdoors, I d spend 10 months in the house!StargazingThis one is a bit easier if you live in a less urban area, where light pollution isn t going to impact too much on your dark skies. It takes a little more preparation than other things on this list, as the best nights for stargazing have just a small sliver of the moon visible and clear skies. Apps like My Moon Phase and YR.no will help you plan the best night, while StarWalk2 gives tips for what to look out for, and can help with identifying constellations. But don t get too transfixed on screens and ID guides, and just revel in the wild and vast universe around us.My favourite guide to the night sky is The Stars by H.A. Rey, author of the Curious George stories. Simple to use and easy to understand.Spotting Venus and a sliver of crescent moon in the growing dusk. Anticipating the emergence of a star-filled night sky.Do you have any favourite microadventures you can make from home?Let me know in the comments below. A list of indoor activities and things to do around the home for outdoor and adventure lovers.Though we re encouraged to think of our current situation with the coronavirus lockdown as being safe while we re at home, there s no denying if you re an outdoor type, you ll inevitably find yourself feeling stuck at home. Denied that usual dose of adventure, there s a serious risk of an outbreak of cabin fever.So, given that there s unlikely to be an immediate cure to our condition, I ve compiled a list of activities that can bring the outdoors indoors, and help stave off longing aches for the hills, rivers, forests, and beaches for a while longer. They ll help you stay mentally resilient, and get you prepared to get back out there when the time comes. They re fun, and virtually all free, or at least affordable, so give them a go!If you ve got any of your own tips to share, let me know in the comments below!1. Soak in someone else s adventureTake the time to choose some inspiring adventure media among all those books, box sets, and blogs you ll have a bit more time for at the moment, and relive the ups and downs of someone else s adventures. You might even find the seed of an idea for your own expedition. These are my current favourites:• Book: I m currently reading Horizon by Barry Lopez, and you can browse my armchair travel lists for more ideas.• Documentaries: I ve been feeding my Antarctica longing with the Penguin Post Office film from the BBC; David Attenborough s Seven Worlds, One Planet; and Encounters at the End of the World by Werner Herzog (also known by my friends as the sad penguin film. It s not Happy Feet).• Podcasts: I ve been flitting between Tough Girl Podcast and Terra Incognita recently.• Magazines: Picking up TGO magazine has been my treat when I go on shopping trips.Immerse yourself into a book about travel, adventure, or the outdoors to inspire ideas for journeys after the pandemic ends.2. Deal with the photos and films from your last travelsThis is my biggest challenge. I have a huge backlog of photographs, sound recordings, and film footage from my travels over the last couple of years just waiting for some attention. Editing, cataloguing, backing up; there never seems to be enough time to clear the decks before the next batch is gathered. Until now. It s actually a fantastic way to reflect on past journeys, especially on a rainy evening with a glass of wine. I might even get around to producing a photo book or two once the process is near complete.3. Find a bit of solace in natureI m not one for mindfulness and visualisation; guided meditations tend to leave me sniggering and silly rather than feeling still and soothed. But I am a master at staring out the window at the birds flying by. Putting out bird feeders makes it easier to get to know the usual suspects, and a birdbath gives some excellent opportunities to observe behaviour. If you don t have a garden of your own, you can find feeders that attach to window and walls instead.4. Get green fingersThis time of year is perfect to get to know your garden better, and growing your own fruit and vegetables has benefits beyond delicious fresh food. Herbs are a simple starting point if you re new to gardening, and there s nothing like your own home-grown strawberries. Boost the biodiversity of your patch with a bug hotel or log pile to keep friendly insects close to your greenery. If you don t have a garden, try small containers on window ledges to grow basil, rocket, and pea shoots for fresh salad greens.A small patch of wildness in your garden creates a haven for wildlife5. Brush up your adventure skillsThe great outdoors might be your favourite classroom, but there s bound to be a few skills you could work on perfecting from home. They might even become your new passion. Try these for a start:• Learn the necessary knots. The RYA has eight essential knots for the competent crew qualification. Climbers will need a few different knots in their basic repertoire.• Fine-tune your map reading skills. It s understood that real navigators never get lost, but sometimes may become unaware of their present location.• If you have outdoor space to try, how about practising bushcraft skills like making fire by friction, creating a solar still, or carving a wooden spoon.• Teach yourself how to service your bicycle and repair a puncture.• Find a new fitness challenge. It could be anything from skipping or hula hooping, squats or bodyweight workouts, to Pilates, yoga or Tai Chi.• Test out recipes for homemade hiking snacks, or try your hand at dehydrating meals for your next backpacking trip.6. Give your gear a going overLooking after your outdoor equipment properly will extend its useful life, saving money in the long run, and ensure that it does the job you want it to do when you next take it out. Clean your hiking boots and running shoes; clean and re-proof waterproof jackets and pants; wash and air your sleeping bag; mend wear and tear on tents and backpacks; service stoves. I like to make a kit list before I go anywhere, and review it afterwards to work out what was missing, what worked well, and what was unnecessary or needed improving.7. Learn something newKeep your brain stimulated with an online course from one of the many free open learning providers like FutureLearn, OpenLearn, and Coursera. Indulge a deep passion, or search for something that might bring richness to your next trip, like a geography, history, or anthropology topic. Or brush up on a foreign language that might come in useful when you travel next. I m using the Duolingo app and Coffee Break Spanish podcast to improve my skills in Spanish. I don t want to make the owl sad.Where do you really want to go?  What will you do?8. Plan your ultimate expeditionSo, once you re dosed up on inspiration why not start planning your next big expedition? Start off by asking yourself, what would you really, really like to do, if money, time, the usual commitments were no problem. Then follow up with a few more questions:• Is it something you d undertake alone, or as part of a team?• How long would it take, and how much time do you need to prepare?• Do you need to start saving up?• How much training is needed, and when would you have to start?If travel is your passion, try throwing a dart at the map to decide on a destination. Then ask:• What do you know about that place? The country?• How would you get there? Can you do it without flying?• Can it be done in my budget?Then it s time to get maps and guidebooks out, read blogs and browse Pinterest. Whether it s going to be a serious undertaking, or an exercise in vicarious travel and adventure, you can shape a plan and take to back to the drawing board again and again, until you have your dream expedition.There s likely to be times where this lockdown leaves you feeling listless and filled with ennui. That s ok. It s a strange and unusual time we re in, and it s not necessary to use your energy to do anything other than just getting by.  Just remember, this too shall pass.Tell me what you ve been up to while you re locked down. Like many of you, the COVID-19 lockdown turned my life upside down.  Plans I d made as I prepared to leave Antarctica have been completely shelved, any potential opportunities remain just that.  Both the travel and the outdoor industries where I ve usually found work have had to shut up shop and furlough staff.  I ve signed up as a volunteer, but it has taken time for organisations to process the volume of applications they ve received.So, I ve encountered an abundance of idle time in the last week or so.  It s been an unexpected chance to indulge in the things that are usually side-lined for more pressing tasks.  For me, it’s reading for pleasure.  In the last week, I ve been able to immerse myself in a few good books to help fend off the cabin fever.While lockdown has clipped my wings, and travel is an impossibility right now, a book can take the mind flying anywhere beyond the immediate four walls.  Here’s what I’ve read, and my to-do list for the coming weeks.The Living Mountain by Nan Shepherd, re-published in 2011 by CanongateOne of the most perfect books I ve ever read, and a pleasure to revisit with the Twitter #CoReadingVirus book group led by Robert Macfarlane.  A meditation on the Cairngorms, and walking in the mountains, on looking closely, and feeling the elemental forces of a landscape.Horizon by Barry Lopez, published in 2019 by VintageA sweeping voyage around the globe, through history and culture, as much as landscape and nature.  I ve been anticipating this book for some time, and can t wait to dive in.Boundless: Adventures in the Northwest Passage by Kathleen Winter, published 2015 by VintageAnother book to satisfy the magnetic pull of the North, and explore the changing dynamics of the region as exploration becomes tourism.Karluk: The Great Untold Story of Arctic Exploration by William Laird McKinley, published in 1976 by Book Club AssociatesSomething I picked up in a second-hand book shop to fulfil my interests in shipwrecks and polar exploration.  A lesser-known story of exploration and survival.Wanderlust: A History of Walking by Rebecca Solnit, published in 2014 by GrantaSomething I d had my eye on for a while, it explores the relationship between thinking and walking, and muses on why slow time is so valuable.Sightlines by Kathleen Jamie, published in 2012 by Sort OfAnother old favourite I return to time and time again, which reminds me of the importance of being still and observing my surroundings.At the Loch of the Green Corrie by Andrew Grieg, published in 2010 by QuercusCarved in the beautiful landscapes of Assynt, this book touches on grief and loss, history, whisky, poetry, and friendship.What s featuring in your lockdown library?  Let me know in the comments below. A few of my favourite things from the past season.I ve just returned from four months in Antarctica, working for the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust in the famous Penguin Post Office in Port Lockroy through the southern summer season.  It s been an overwhelming couple of weeks, as I reconnected to the rest of the world and remembered how to do little everyday things that were missing from my life over those 110 days.Like using money and buying things I want from shops and bars, rather than just asking someone to bring things to me.  Driving, and even just moving around at a faster pace.  The colour green.  Or looking out the window and seeing animals that aren t penguins.  I miss those penguins.  (Though the odour of penguin guano is still lingering on in the fabric of my outdoor clothing).Then there was the added strangeness of adjusting to our new normal in the time of corona.  Reuniting with family wasn t the hugs and long conversations I d imagined I d have, but waving through the window of houses as I stood outside in the garden, and staccato notes in what s app chats and skype calls.  It s tough, but I know that I m not the worst off in this situation, and for that, I m so very thankful.These are a few of the things that I loved over my Antarctic season, living in close confines with a small team, on a little island with no escape.  There may even be a couple of things you find useful yourself over the next few weeks as we adjust to living in lockdown.Things I ve loved during the southern summer in AntarcticaMy Antarctica love list:Nivea Factor 50 sunblock: The Antarctic atmosphere is ozone-depleted, and intense sun rays can penetrate through more easily, even on overcast days.  Harsh light is reflected back by ice, snow, and the sea.  I wore this every day to protect my skin, and I love the familiar summer-smell of it.Cébé Summit sunglasses: As with the sunblock, these were essential everyday wear for working outside, even when it was an overcast day.  They have category 4 UV protection, transmitting less than 8% of visible light, so will become part of my ski kit.Palmer s coconut oil leave-in conditioner: Like the Nivea, it became an everyday essential to protect my hair from the wind and sun, and it smells wonderful.  Sometimes a blast of it was just enough to drive out the smell of penguin guano until my next shower.Merino beanie:  This merino beanie hat from Findra is super warm but lightweight and breathable, and in my favourite colours.  Perfect for an Antarctic summer, and autumn in Ushuaia.  I ll keep wearing into next season, as I ve already had a couple of frosty mornings and snow showers this week in Scotland.Splashmaps toob: I live right on the North Sea coast, so this is excellent for keeping the breeze off my neck on cold walks, and my hair out of my eyes as I run.  The Antarctic peninsula map and gentoo penguin design is exclusive from the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust.Rab powerstretch gloves: Super warm and stretchy gloves.  For all the reasons above.There are two seasons in Scotland: June and winter.Billy ConnollyThe Storied Ice by Joan N. Boothe:  A fantastically readable book covering the history of the Antarctic peninsula region.  My recommendation for anyone interested in learning more about the continent before their visit, or gaining a vicarious overview of exploration and discovery.Leatherman sidekick:  A pocket-sized multi-tool I ve been using for everything from opening up generators to breaking down cardboard boxes.Irish wheaten bread:  Kit introduces us to the delight that is Irish wheaten bread with this mix from the Cookie Jar Bakery in Newcastle, Co. Down.  Devoured still warm with butter donated from a cruise ship.The Tin Can Cook by Jack Monroe:  While our provisions in Antarctica were mainly tinned or dried products, this was a consequence of our privilege to be in such a unique location.  For many others, tinned food is an affordable and nutritious necessity.  This brilliant book by cook and anti-poverty campaigner Jack Monroe helped us put together tasty and inventive meals.Berocca:  Fizzy multivitamins, these were essential for the days when freshies (fresh fruit and vegetables) hadn t been available.Bananagrams: A simple but addictive Scrabble-like game of assembling words.  This occupied several of our evenings, and according to the Lockroy rules, abbreviations and words in Finnish, te reo Māori, and Scots are all accepted.  As there was no google to check the veracity of claims, it all came down to how convincingly you could argue.1. Leatherman Sidekick; 2. The Tin Can Cook by Jack Monroe; 3. Palmer s leave-in conditioner; 4. Nivea Factor 50 sunblock; 5. Berocca multivitamins; 6. Bananagrams game; 7. Merino beanie hat from Findra; 8. Powerstretch fleece gloves from Rab; 9. Cébé Summit sunglasses; 10. Port Lockroy Splashmaps Toob; 11. Wheaten Bread Mix from the Cookie Jar Bakery; 12. The Storied Ice by Joan N. Booth.What s next:Well, who really knows what the answer to that question will be?  I m back home in Aberdeenshire, and finding myself at the end of a contract at a terrible time to find any work, let alone in the travel and outdoor sector.  However, I have a roof over my head and food to eat, and time to process the experience, which I think is all anyone can ask for right now.Here s to a bit of time enjoying the great indoors.  Stay safe, and thank you for following These Vagabond Shoes.VickyI d love to hear about what you ve been up to, and how you ve been dealing with time spent in isolation or lockdown.  Let me know in the comments below. 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