American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog

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American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog

World-wide ascents, expeditions, and mountaineering instruction. Excellence in guiding since 1975.

Thursday, November 18, 2021 Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/18/21Northwest:
--Snowbrains is reporting that, "Climate change has led numerous predictions to be made about the future of the skiing industry. An alarming study led by researchers at Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory reveals that there may not be enough snow to ski on Mount Hood in 50 years and that the Cascades may not have any snowpack by 2070." To read more, click here.

--A new movement in British Columbia aims to protect Mt. Waddington and to make it a non-motorized park in the Coast Range. To read about it, click here.
Sierra:

--Gripped is reporting that, "Brette Harrington has redpointed her El Capitan project with a tick of the 31-pitch El Corazon 5.13b. Harrington climbed with Elliott Bernhagen, who nearly sent the full route." To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--Climbing is reporting that, "Las Vegas lost a legend when Wendell Broussard, 81, passed away in mid-October. He was a lifelong adventurer, masterful storyteller, and mentor. Wendell was rugged at 64, yet elegant. For nearly 50 years, he worked nights as a dealer at Caesars Palace. By day, he was an architect of routes in Red Rock Canyon, with about 100 first ascents to his credit. But Wendells legacy is much more than that. He left a blueprint for a fulfilling life, demonstrating that the goal isnt just to survive, but to thrive." Wendell always had a story to tell, and he'll be missed. To read more, click here.
--Somebody is leaving painted rocks all over Carlsbad Cavern National Park in New Mexico, and the Park Service would like this to stop. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
Lor Saburin climbing in Red River GorgeImage from They/Them by Patagonia Films
--If you haven't watched the awesome film from Patagonia about the non-binary climber and AAI Guide, Lor Sabourin, then you shouldwatch it now! A piece on the film and on Lor was recently posted by CNN. To read that,click here.
--Gear Junkie is reporting that, "Petzl has issued a recall for every Scorpio Eashook via ferrata lanyard delivered this year. The carabiner gates may stop automatically closing, making the system unsafe." To read more, click here.
--Peakrankings is reporting that, "a traditional ski resort staple is permanently disappearing from all Vail Resorts mountains. A source within the company has confirmed to PeakRankings that physical pocket trail maps will not be returning to Vails resorts after the company discontinued them for 2020-21 due to COVID. Instead, guests will be advised to pull up mountain guides on the EpicMix app or individual resort websites. The company says the choice not to reintroduce trail maps is an environmental one as part of its Commitment to Zero, with concerns about paper use and viable virtual alternatives spearheading the decision." To read more, click here.
--Wildfires are having a greater and greater impact on climbing. Check out the Access Fund blog on how the growing threat impacts the sport we love.
Prices for Single Day Walk-Up Lift Tickets are Obscene...

--The New York Times is reporting that, "In August 2018, Mark Lantiss mother dropped him off at a trailhead at Yellowstone National Park to search for the buried treasure of an eccentric millionaire. But after going off trail and getting lost in the Wyoming backcountry, Mr. Lantis ended up in need of a helicopter airlift. He ultimately did not find the treasure, but he was charged with reckless disorderly conduct. After a hearing before a magistrate judge in 2019, Mr. Lantis was convicted and sentenced to five years of unsupervised probation. He was also banned for five years from Yellowstone National Park and ordered to pay a $2,880 fine to cover the cost of the rescue." It is the opinion of AAI's staff, that charging for rescue is always wrong. The reason? People may become afraid to call for help when they need it, or may hide from rescuers. To read more, click here.
--High Country News is reporting that, "despite knowing for years about widespread harassment across the agency and promising to take action, the National Park Service buried an internal study that shed new light on the problem, High Country News has confirmed. The Voices Tour Report, which was compiled in 2018, goes further than any past NPS report in describing how women, LGBTQ+ and Black, Indigenous and people of color are treated in the workplace and left unprotected by agency leadership. In early November, an employee leaked the report to Public Employees for Environmental Responsibility (PEER), which tipped HCN off." To read more, click here.
--Deadline is reporting that, "Tragedy struck in the Tibetan Himalayas on October 5, 1999, when an avalanche claimed the life of two Americans, including Alex Lowe, a mountaineer considered perhaps the foremost climber in the world. It was an incalculable loss for the climbing community, but something worse for the family Lowe left behind: wife Jennifer and their three young boys, Max, Sam and Isaac. Max, who grew up to be a filmmaker, attempts to come to terms with his fathers death and all that happened after it in the National Geographic documentary Torn." To read more, click here.

0comments Monday, November 15, 2021 Fixed-Point Belay TechniquesThere has been a lot of talk in the industry lately about fixed-point belay techniques. Many guides are beginning to employ these techniques on ice climbs and on sketchy alpine climbs.

Essentially a fixed-point belay is a lead belay directly off the anchor, as opposed to the more standard belay technique of operating a device off one's harness. The idea is that a lead fall simply doesn't impact the belayer the same way that a lead fall impacts him or her in a normal setting.

At a guide training in 2008, a number of our guides experimented with this technique, finding mixed results. We found that both a tube style device and a munter-hitch worked well, but not so much for a GriGri. Assisted locking devices seem to transfer a lot more force into the falling person and without movement in the anchor, this resulted in a painful fall for our leader.

The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) has put out a video on this particular technique. It is a long and comprehensive video on the subject, but it is very good. Please see it below:


The French Guide Training organization, ENSA has also put out a comprehensive video:


At a 2014 AMGA training we experimented with this technique some more and decided that using a tube-style device wasn't appropriate at all. The best application appeared to incorporate the use of a munter-hitch.


In the photo above, we built a separate anchor from the anchor the climber was belaying on. We found that when an individual took a leader fall, it was easier to manage if your hands were far away from the munter-hitch. If your hands were close, you got pulled up into the anchor more easily. Additionally, the fall was greater because the anchor moved up substantially before catching the falling climber.


In the photo above the belayer has just held a fall on a fixed-point system. This system with a piece designed specifically to deal with the upward pull was easier to manage.

So why would you use this system?

It is a very guidey thing to do and it does require one to learn a new belay technique, so it doesn't make much sense...unless you're working with significant weight differences in a multipitch setting. If you intend to take children or small teens up a multi-pitch route, a leader fall may be so dramatic that they get pulled into the anchor and let go. This negates that possibility.

And while there aren't that many uses for a fixed-point anchor, it is one of those things that when you need it...you really need it...

--Jason D. Martin4comments Friday, November 12, 2021 Stick ClippingI was in Red Rock Canyon, just below the first bolt, when my foot smeared off. My stance was somewhat sideways and if I didn't have a rope on, I would have fallen eight feet directly on my side, likely breaking my arm...

But how could I have a rope prior to the first bolt?

Easy. I stick clipped it. And that stick clip saved me from a hospital visit.

Stick clips are an important part of sport climbing. These are specially designed poles that may be used to clip the first bolt with a rope prior to climbing the route. These devices may be purchased from many different climbing companies, they may be made out of homemade supplies or they may be "McGyvered."

The concept behind a stick clip is simple. You have a pole that allows you to clip the first draw to the first bolt with the rope prerigged through the bottom carabiner on the draw. Then you may be toproped through the starting moves of the climb.

There are several manufactured stick clips available on the market. Following are a couple of examples:

Trango Beta Stick Clip
Epic Sport Epic Stick Clip
Homemade stick clips are relatively easy to make. I bought a painters pole and a placed a spring clamp a the end. I duct taped this securely on to keep the spring clamp in place. Alternately, some people use hose clamps to keep the spring clamp in place at the end of the pole.
My well-loved homemade stick clip.
My stick clip wasn't designed with a means to keep the carabiner open. Instead, I just push the carabiner against the bolt until it clips.
There are going to be occasions when you don't have access to a stick clip. On these occasions, you may wish to McGyver something. Climbing magazine put together and excellent video on this topic with the now Executive Editor of the magazine, Julie Ellison, describing how to do this:


I used to be a little wary about carrying stick clips. A lot of my friends made fun of me for carrying it around. But the fact that I didn't hurt myself in that short fall before the first bolt made up for every last joke made by my trad climber buddies...

--Jason D. Martin0comments Thursday, November 11, 2021 Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/11/21On this Veteran's Day, we should note that veteran's of World War II essentially started the ski industry in the United States. Read about it, here.
Northwest:

--The North Cascades Highway, State Route 20, closed yesterday for the winter season. It will reopen, most likely, in late April or early May.

--A brown bag full of presumably stolen climbing gear was found in Bellingham this week. If you got ripped off, click here to learn more.

Sierra:

--CNN is reporting that, "aCalifornia woman is recovering and says she feels lucky to be alive after being mauled by a black bear that broke into her Lake Tahoe cabin and rummaged through her kitchen." To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--The BLM is updating it's recreation management plan for Calico Basin in Red Rock Canyon: "Recognizing the need to balance high-quality visitor experience with natural resource protection in one of the regions most popular recreation areas, the Bureau of Land Management Southern Nevada District announces a public comment period for the draft Recreation Area Management Plan (RAMP) and Environmental Analysis (EA) for the Calico Basin area of Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The public comment period is open from November 8, 2021, to December 8, 2021. The Recreation Area Management Plan will guide future development and provide management direction for recreation resources within the Calico Basin Recreation Area, located in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area northwest of Las Vegas." A zoom meeting about this will take place on November 18th. To read more, click here.

--The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition is looking for 60 volunteers for the Red Rock Rehab stewardship events. This year the focus will be on the highly impacted area of Kraft Mountain. During November 20-21 the SNCC and Access Fund will lead projects to eliminate redundant trails, redirect current trails, install vertical mulching in compacted soil, and clean up litter. Email snclimberscoalition@gmail.com to sign up for one or both days.
Colorado and Utah:

--This ankle injury that required a rescue took place in Larimer County at a crag on Highway 14. Few details are available.

--Yahoo News is reporting that, "Human remains found in Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado are believed to be those of a hiker who disappeared nearly 40 years ago during a ski trip, officials at the park said Thursday." To read more, click here.
--The Denver Post is reporting that, "All proceeds from uphill skiing sales at Winter Park Resort this year will benefit three local nonprofits. Uphill skiers at Winter Park Resort will need to pre-purchase a $25 armband that is good for the full 2021-2022 season. The funds raised from this will go toward Grand County Search and Rescue, Colorado Rapid Avalanche Deployment dog teams, and Friends of Berthoud Pass." To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--SnowBrains is reporting that, "a skier suffered a minor injury when a cornice broke off and carried him 200-feet down the slope on Tincan Ridge, AK, on Saturday." To read more, click here.
--SnowBrains is reporting that, "on Sunday morning a skier was caught and carried a short distance in a slough in The Great One couloir near Fairy Lake, MT. There were no injuries, but it could have been a worse outcome if carried farther or into rocks." To read more, click here.
--NPR is reporting that, "an 83-year-old from Alabama started walking when he retired more than a quarter-century ago and never stopped. M.J. 'Sunny' Eberhart strode into the record books Sunday as the oldest hiker to complete the Appalachian Trail. Eberhart, known by the trail name Nimblewill Nomad, acknowledged that despite having tens of thousands of miles under his belt, the trail was tough going at his age, leading to quite a few spills on slippery rocks." To read more, click here.
--The Access Fund is reporting that the "Access Fund and Illinois Climbers Association (ICA) are thrilled to announce the purchase and protection of the House Boulders, a new bouldering area and conservation corridor in southern Illinois." To read more, click here.
--Wyoming Public Radio is reporting that, "Wildlife biologists are proposing winter closures of some terrain in and around Grand Teton National Park. The hope is that the move would help protect the locally-endangered and isolated bighorn sheep herd in the range. But, as KHOL's Will Walkey reports, the recommendations are drawing backlash from some backcountry skiers, and stakeholders from around the region are searching for ways to compromise." To read more, click here.
--The Daily Beast is reporting that, "a mountaineering medical doctor called in a false report of hypothermia after attempting and failing to summit Denali, the tallest peak in North America, so he could be rescued by helicopter instead of descending on his own, according to a criminal complaint filed in Fairbanks, Alaska federal court." To read more, click here.0comments Thursday, November 4, 2021 Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/4/21Northwest:

--Forest Road 11 -- the road used to access the Sulphide Glacier and Baker River -- is out just before the Shannon Creek Campground. This was reported just a couple days ago, here. As such, it's not clear when it will be repaired.

Sierra:

--As a result of the Caldor Fire, it doesn't look like the Sierra at Tahoe Resort is going to open until after the new year. To read more, click here.

Colorado and Utah:

--Snowbrains is reporting that, "a skier triggered and was caught and carried in an avalanche on Loveland Pass, CO, on Friday October 29th, 2021. The slide occurred in an area locally known as the Kitchen Wall."To read more, click here.
--Affordable housing for ski area employees is nearly non-existent in some ski towns. To counter that, Loveland is leasing a motel 25-miles away to provide area employees affordable housing. To read more, click here.
--Snowbrains is reporting that, "Kirsten Lynch, previously chief marketing officer for Vail Resorts, was yesterday appointed chief executive officer and elected to the Companys board of directors. Her predecessor, Rob Katz, was appointed executive chairperson of the board and will remain fully active and engaged in Vail Resorts key strategic decisions and priorities. Additionally, Ryan Bennett, previously vice president of marketing, lift revenue, was named chief marketing officer of Vail Resorts." To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:

--AAI Guide Wyatt Evenson was featured on The Crux Series, talking about what it takes to guide Denali. To read the piece, click here.
--Footwear News is reporting that, "REI Co-op has created an initiative aimed at helping founders of color with their outdoor-focused businesses. The retail giant has revealed Path Ahead Ventures, an effort it said will help founders of color who are starting and scaling their businesses. For this initiative, REI said it will partner with Black, Indigenous, Latinx and Asian American Pacific Islander entrepreneurs with a goal of helping then build their businesses faster. This effort includes an investment of $30 million in 300 founders." To read more, click here.
--The 2021 Pioets d'Or awards -- the biggest award in world alpine climbing -- have been announced. To see the winners, click here.0comments Monday, November 1, 2021 How to Cut and Prep Ski Skins It's that time. The snow is starting to fly and skiing is around the corner. And if skiing is around the corner, then it might also be time to get those skins out and make sure they're ready for uphill action.
There are a number of different skins available on the market. Some of them are easier to cut and shape, while others are harder. As a result, I've included three videos here. Each are a bit different. But if you watch all three, you should be an expert before you actually start cutting...

In this second video, we see a pair of skins that require a bit more work than most. If you can do this (prep the front of the skin), then you can certainly manage something a bit more simple.

In this video, Josh Madsen gives a basic demonstration of how to cut the Voilé Hyper Glide Skins (made by Pomoca) using a Pomoca skin cutting tool:

Obviously, the tool can make it much easier to make a clean and nice cut. But most of us don't have one of these and likely won't buy one. Thus, the first video here.
Happy skiing!
--Jason D. Martin0comments Thursday, October 28, 2021 Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 10/28/21Northwest:

Two words: Bomb Cyclone.

Sierra:

--Outside is reporting that, "on October 21, 2021, the Mariposa County Sheriffs Office announced its long-awaited conclusions about what had killed an active, outdoorsy family and their dog on a hiking trail in Californias Sierra National Forest on August 15. They determined that the family died of hyperthermia and probable dehydration on a day when temperatures hit 109 degrees. The cause of death of Oski, an eight-year-old Aussie-Akita mix, remains undetermined. Based on a veterinary examination of the dogs remains and other evidence on the scene, Sheriff Jeremy Briese said Oski probably also died of heat-related issues." To read more, click here.













--Snowbrains is reporting that, "As the Caldor Fire tore through Sierra-at-Tahoe, CA, last month, we feared the worstone of our favorite resorts was being razed to the ground. Thankfully, that didnt happen, and due to heroic work by firefighters and the use of snowguns to dampen the area, Sierra-at-Tahoe survived. But that doesnt mean there wasnt any damage. The resort, who are working round the clock to prepare for the upcoming season, offered an update on what terrain wont open next season, which lifts were affected, and when opening day might be." To read more, click here.
--Alex Honnold's mom just climbed El Cap at the age of 70, becoming the oldest woman to do so. To read more, click here.
Colorado and Utah:

--The New York Post and others are reporting that, "a hiker lost on a mountain in Colorado ignored repeated calls from rescuers later explaining that they had been unfamiliar with the phone number, authorities said. The person was reported missing after they didnt return from an expedition Oct. 18 on Mount Elbert, the highest peak in the state, Lake County Search and Rescue said." To read more, click here.
--The Salt Lake Tribune is reporting that, "Search and rescue crews led two climbers to safety early Saturday morning after they were stranded overnight in the Gate Buttress area of Little Cottonwood Canyon, Unified Police Department officials said. The climbers, a 26-year-old man and a 24-year-old woman, had ascended to the top of The Thumb climbing feature around 2 p.m. Friday, but headed in the wrong direction as they repelled down and became stuck on a ledge after running out of rope, UPD detective Kevin Mallory said." To read more, click here.
--The Colorado Sun is reporting that, "Sweetwater Lake - The newest federal land in Colorado will become the states 43rd state park in a first-of-its-kind partnership between the state and the U.S. Forest Service. What started as an effort to protect 488 acres surrounding Sweetwater Lake above the Colorado River from private development on Wednesday became the countrys first state park on Forest Service land." To read more, click here.
--Snowbrains is reporting that, "With ski season rapidly approaching, resorts are planning out the essential resources to make this ski season like no other. Unfortunately, Colorado ski resorts are facing an unexpected scarcity of employees. As thousands of positions remain unfilled, resorts are becoming frantic to hire employees in time for ski season." To read more, click here.
--Ski is reporting that, "Colorados Aspen Snowmass released its Covid-related guidelines for the coming season, including some vaccine requirements for close-contact, indoor spaces." To read more, click here.
--Snowbrains is reporting that, "Former pro-skier David Lesh has been found guilty of illegally riding a snowmobile at a terrain park in closed Keystone Resort on April 24, 2020, and undertaking an unauthorized commercial venture on national forestland. Leshs own social media pictures played a part in the conviction." To read more, click here.
--CBS Denver is reporting that, "its been another record year when it comes to call volume for the Summit County Rescue Group, a trend thats showing no signs of slowing down. Last year, the SCRG handled 185 calls and so far this year its been 193. The increasing call volume is one of the the reasons the group was selected for a new pilot program to help them deal with the mental toll the load can create. 'This is a program thats aimed at creating awareness and bringing processes to rescuers to help them recognize stress injuries, prevent it, mitigate it and have good processes available for the individual rescuer,' said Aaron Parmet, Medical Officer for Summit County Rescue Group." To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--A Russian boxer fought and killed a bear after it killed his friend. According to The Hill: "The boxer, who has participated in national championships, shot the animal four times. The bear managed to swipe the firearm away and attack the Russian fighter, but in the end, Medvedev stabbed the bear to death." To read more, click here.
--KTVH is reporting that, "The Helena Fire Department rescued a stranded climber Monday morning on Mount Helena and a hiker on Mount Ascension. Around 10:00 AM, Helena Fire received a report of an individual stranded cliff side on Mount Helena. Upon arrival, crews found a climber with no rope or harness approximately 150 feet off the ground." To read more, click here.
--The Hill is reporting that, "President Biden has nominated Martha Williams to lead the Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS) after she informally serving in the role since the start of the Biden administration. Williams was previously the director of the Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife and Parks and has also previously served in the Interior Department during the Obama administration." To read more, click here.
--The Outside Business Journal is reporting that, "Guthook Guides announced it has rebranded as FarOut to better reflect the companys current business model and plans for future growth. The companys Bikepacking Guides app will also be consolidated in the FarOut app." To read more, click here.0comments Older PostsHomeSubscribe to:Posts (Atom)LabelsTech Tips(369)Conditions and News(332)Mountain Culture(130)Book and Film Reviews(100)Trip Reports(85)Skiing and Snowboarding(82)Equipment and Gear(70)Route Profiles(67)Beginner Climbing(65)The Guiding Life(59)Mountain Comedy(35)Training(34)Climbing Ethics(26)Avalanche Awareness(22)Land Management Advocacy(19)Search and Rescue(19)Share|Like us on Facebook!Subscribe Subscribe to AAI's blog!NewsletterSubscribe to Our Newsletter!


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