Hello, Tailor

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Hello, Tailor

Costume design and narrative in film TV.

Unordered List Thursday, 24 March 2016 Rationalizing Wonder Woman's Amazon costumes
Entertainment Weeklyjust posted the first pic from the new Wonder Woman movie, and its stressing me out because Im worried these ladies are gonna get stabbed in the junk.


The way I see it, there are two options here:

Wonder Woman and friends are sword-proof and invulnerable, and the armor is just a fashion choice.The armor is real, but inexplicably exposes everyone to lethal blows to the neck, arms, and upper thighs.Now, Im the first to admit that theres no such thing as a ~practical superhero costume. Their job is to look cool and distinctive, not to make perfect rational sense. Unfortunately for Wonder Woman, her wardrobe choices are colored by decades of sexist garbage movies where women wear skimpy outfits to satisfy our old friend the Male Gaze. In that context, this photo could probably benefit from... some pants, basically. Maybe just one woman wearing pants.
Analysing ~sexualized movie costumes is a real can of worms, because you very quickly become embroiled in the issue of shaming real women for their fashion choices. However, theres a very big difference between a real person deciding to wear a strapless metal bathing suit (do what thou wilt!) and a movie studio marketing its first female action hero in the same kind of outfit. These costumes do not exist in a cultural vacuum.
Read more 314 comments: Monday, 25 January 2016 The Big Short: Douchepocalypse NowThe Big Shortis full of scenes where finance bros stare at each other in dawning horror, stunned by the realization that the U.S. economy is built on fraud and misinformation. Conveniently, that is exactly how I feel about The Big Shortreceiving any kind of critical acclaim whatsoever.

Going into this movie, I knew two things: the wigs and hairstyling looked horrible, and at some point Margot Robbie would explain The Economy while gratuitously nude. Thus warned, I assumed I was in for a reasonably good Oscar movie with some dumb misogynist garnishes. How wrong I was.

Instead, the experience was like gazing into Michael Moores butthole with a telescope built by Seth MacFarlane.


Billed as a kind of biographical comedy, The Big Shortis more like a docudrama with occasional jokes thrown in. The technical details are complex, but the basic narrative is simple: a handful of hedge fund managers correctly predict that the housing market is going to crash, and decide to bet against the U.S. economy. So while they do uncover some stunning examples of Wall Street fraud, theyre not exactly underdog heroes. The cast is split between loud rich men who are Right but widely ignored by the financial establishment (Steve Carrell, Christian Bale, Ryan Gosling, Brad Pitt, et al), and everyone else, who is Wrong.
Read more 262 comments: Sunday, 24 January 2016 Awards eligibility post color: #323232; font-family: arial , tahoma , helvetica , freesans , sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2px;">It'sHugo Awardnomination season, and I'm eligible in the Fan Writer category!

If you enjoy this blog, please consider me on your Hugo ballot! (Or other non-Hugo awards that I don't know about!)To nominate for the 2016 Hugos, you either need to have attended Worldcon in 2015, or have bought a ticket for Worldcon 2016 or 2017. Or you can buy a "supporting membership," which lets you vote on the Hugos (so ~prestigious!) and get ebooks of the nominated books/short stories.



For the "fan writer" category, you can consider anything I wrote in a ~fannish capacity. So, this blog, along with my Tumblr and Twitter, etc. Here are some highlights from 2015!
Interview: Agent Cartercostume designer Gigi Melton
Interview: Mad Max: Fury Roadcostume designer Jenny Beavan (Now nominated for an Oscar!)

The new heroes ofStar Wars: The Force Awakens.I'm looking forward to writing more about Star Wars this month!
What was up with that Black Widow scene in Avengers: Age of Ultron?My most ~controversial post of 2015, apparently.
Age of Ultron: The empire of Tony StarkOn Age of Ultron's imperialist overtones, and Tony Stark's status as a burgeoning supervillain.

Ant-Man: Fun, but still a waste of $130 million
Review: Mad Max: Fury RoadThe most important movie of 2015.

Podcast: Guest appearance on Into It, discussing Mad Max: Fury Roadwith regular host Elle Collins.

For my other writing, head on over to Tumblr, where I host my more casual posts commentary.

P.S. My friend Elizabeth Minkel and I recently launched a weekly newsletter for fanfic recs (a new fandom or fic theme each week!) and cool fandom news/links. You can sign up here, and check out previous issues here. It's pretty great!

Tweet874 comments: Saturday, 26 December 2015 The new heroes of 'Star Wars: The Force Awakens'WARNING: This post contains spoilers for Star Wars: The Force Awakens

The Force Awakens aims straight for the nostalgic hindbrain of Star Wars fandom, but my favourite moments were invariably the ones where we saw something new.

The looming wreckage of a Star Destroyer on Jakku, hinting at three decades of history without a word of exposition. Kylo Rens desperation to forge a new identity outside the established rivalry between Jedi and Sith. Reys wordless introduction, focusing on her surroundings and her evocative theme music. And in a more general sense, the diversity of the cast, which may be the most significant innovation J.J. Abrams brought to the franchise. Its hard to articulate how important and exciting it feels to see actors like John Boyega, Daisy Ridley and Oscar Isaac at the helm of a story like this, except to say: oh my god Im so in love.


You can easily map various aspects of the original trio onto Rey, Poe and Finn. In the foreground, Rey continues the Skywalker legacy as a Force-sensitive prodigy with a natural affinity for machines, trapped in an isolated desert settlement but dreaming of the stars. Then Finn and Poe share attributes from both Han and Leia: the pilot, the icon of the rebellion, the outlaw, the reluctant hero who is motivated more by love than by political ideals. Poes arc in the first half of the film even follows Leias role in A New Hope, as he passes important information to a droid before being kidnapped and interrogated by the enemy, only to be rescued by a stormtrooper.
This melting pot of familiarmotifs is reminiscent of the way J.J. Abrams remixed Spocks death scene for Star Trek Into Darkness, but this time it was far more effective. WhileInto Darkness offered an unsatisfying copy of an already iconic moment, The Force Awakenshad more in common with the way long-running superhero comics get updated for modern audiences. It extracted the most compelling ideas at the heart of Star Wars, pulled them apart, and rearranged them to make something fresh. This didnt always work (in particular, the Starkiller Base attack was unnecessarily derivative), but the three new leads were a phenomenal success.

Read more 233 comments: Saturday, 25 July 2015 Ant-Man: Fun, but still a waste of $130 million.Following this films much-discussedbehind-the-scenes meltdown, my expectations were low. So I was pleasantly surprised to discover that Ant-Manis a decent movie, if not a particularly interesting one. At the very least, it was more coherent than Age of Ultron.

Both movies were the product of embarrassingly public disputes between their directors and Marvel Studios, but Ant-Manmanaged to resolve itself into an entertaining (if lightweight) heist movie while AoU was a mess of conflicting subplots and franchise tie-ins: Joss Whedons weird Black Widow issuesand inconsistent characterization vs. Marvels obsession with clumsy sequel foreshadowing. You could pick out certain scenes in Ant-Man that felt like Edgar Wrights work, but it didnt feel patchy like Thors bizarre cave-swimming subplot did in Age of Ultron.


Ant-Man and the Marvel Cinematic Universe

More than any other MCU movie so far, Ant-Mancaptured the tone of a solo comic in a larger fictional universe: casually acknowledging the existence of other superheroes without going for an actual team-up. Weve now reached the point where the MCU is big enough to support cameos from familiar side-characters without it seeming forced, which is great for worldbuilding purposes. Its just too bad this only happened after the departure of Edgar Wright, who wanted to make a standalone movie with (presumably) a more esoteric tone.

Ideally, Marvel should find a happy medium between franchise crossover moments and allowing filmmakers more freedom to make a personal mark. Thats why comics like Ms Marvel and Hawkeye are so popular: they have a memorable sense of personality.

Read more 91 comments: Monday, 1 June 2015 INTERVIEW: "Mad Max: Fury Road" costume designer Jenny BeavanPreviously:My review ofMad Max: Fury Road

The Mad Maxseries boasts some of the most influential costumes in sc-if/fantasy cinema, kick-starting a trend for post-apocalyptic fetish punk that inspired numerous movies, music videos and outlandish outfits at Burning Man.

Oscar winning costume designer Jenny Beavan was brought in to develop the look of Fury Road, a far cry from her best-known work on historical dramas like The Kings Speechand Sense and Sensibility. The result was a fresh new aesthetic that blends grimy realism with the kind of memorable extremes weve come to expect from a Mad Max movie.

Just as director George Millers attention to detail led to the most exciting movie in the franchise, Jenny Beavans costumes were the most technically ambitious and character-driven so far. Happily for me, she agreed to an interview about her experiences on the film, discussing the vision behind Fury Roads costumes.


HelloTailor: One of the fascinating things about Fury Road is the way George Miller worked from a 3,500 panel storyboard instead of a traditional script. Did you collaborate with [concept artist] Brendan McCarthy on the character designs, or did you get started after his storyboard was complete?

Jenny Beavan: No, I didnt have any collaboration with Brendan McCarthy - but I did meet him when he visited Namibia, which was exciting. I came on board relatively late in the proceedings, considering the project had been prepping for some 12 years I think!
The earlier Mad Max movies have a really iconic post-apocalyptic look. How did you balance the references to Norma Moriceaus Mad Max costumes with the new aesthetic for Fury Road?
Mad Max: Fury Road was absolutely a continuation of the Mad Max genre and at the same time completely different - if that makes sense. We are in the same and a completely different wasteland, and with a lot of new characters. Because George Miller is the genius behind all the films there will always be a certain continuity, as it is his vision we were all creating.
Read more 282 comments: Saturday, 23 May 2015 Mad Max: Fury RoadI saw John Wick recently, a movie Id heartily recommend to any fan of the action genre. With inventive fight scenes and skillful cinematography, it was the definitive badass man goes on a revenge killing spree movie. Thankfully, this means we can now retire that trope forever. Were done. Its over. After its millionth retelling, this story can cede its spotlight to things like Mad Max: Fury Road, which displayed a far broader understanding of human nature.

[Also, before I go any further into this Very Serious Review: THROW ME IN THE TRASH, FURY ROADIS AN EXPLODING MUTANT MASTERPIECE OF LIZARD-CHOMPING, FLAMING GUITAR-PLAYING GENIUS. I spent the first third having heart palpitations over Maxs mask and blood tube, the second third thinking, WHAT THE FUCK!? DUDES ON POLES WITH CHAINSAWS!? and the final third having some kind of religious experience where I wanted to cry because Tom Hardy made a quizzical grunting noise or the Motorcycle Matriarchy had shown up to save the day, or simply because We Are Not Things, dammit!

And then I went home and read a metric fuckload of behind-the-scenes coverage, because this was a rare instance where that shit islegitimately interesting.Did you know they shot 480 hours of footage? And yet the editor, Margaret Sixel, pulled it all together into one of the most comprehensible and dynamic action narratives Ive ever seen!Give that woman an Oscar.]



In every regard,Fury Road was made for me. It took my favourite genre (wildly over-stylized apocalyptic fantasy)and imbued it with emotional and political themes I understood on a personal level.For too long, Ive had to watch Hollywood blockbusters with part of my brain switched off, attempting to ignore their obsession with cops and soldiers and steroid-inflated machismo. BUT NO LONGER, MY FRIENDS. No longer.
Obviously I do appreciate characters like Captain America and James Bond, but the fact is that they are not my heroes. What personal connection can I possibly have to Bruce Wayne? None, even as a power fantasy.Whereas with Fury Road, I can really feel this shit. It fulfills my desire to see women work together to protect each other, and for people to overthrow their destructive and abusive leaders. It works on a fundamental level becauseI know what its like to live in a world ruined by centuries of pollution, controlled by a cruel patriarchal culture that disregards the souls and bodies of women.

You can hardly describe Fury Roadas realistic, but its story felt real to me in every way that counts.



Read more 94 comments: Friday, 1 May 2015 Age of Ultron: The Empire of Tony StarkPreviously: My reviews ofThe Avengers and Captain America: The Winter Soldier
What the was up with that Black Widow scene in Avengers: Age of Ultron?
My unspoilery review of Age of Ultronover at the Daily Dot.

Warning: SPOILERS AHEAD.

When you write a negative review for a summer blockbuster, the response usually goes something like this: Why Do You Hate Fun? To get this out of the way, Im not judging Age of Ultronfrom a tower of joyless snobbery. Rather, I think it failed in two pretty basic ways: As an event sequel to the Avengers franchise, and as a Joss Whedon movie.

I didnt have high expectations for Age of Ultron, but I generally trust Whedon to deliver an entertaining story with a solid emotional core. The Avengers still holds up as a fun, well-paced movie with an unusually engaging villain, making Age of Ultronall the more disappointing because it didnt live up to these three specific standards.It had all the big-budget action setpieces youd expect, but overall it was incoherent and riddled with lazy storytelling and self-contradictory characterization. Even Whedons trademark witty dialogue often fell flat for me, with too many jokes either interrupting the action or feeling like theyd been written for other characters.


Ultimately, I dont think Whedon had any interest in maintaining continuity within the franchise. To a certain extent this was fine, becauseAge of Ultronhad to be accessible to a wider audience. They couldnt include detailed callbacks to earlier movies. But AoUdidnt just sidestep recent installments in the franchise, it contradicted them.For example:
How did the team get together?AoUopens with the Avengers storming a castle to retrieve Lokis scepter, strongly implying that theyve been based out of Stark Tower for some time. However, CA:TWSends with Cap and Falcon going off to find Bucky (which admittedly gets a throwaway mention in AoU)and Natasha dropping her Black Widow identity to go travelling and find herself. How did Natasha come to rejoin the Avengers, and when did her not-very-plausible romance with Bruce begin?Tony Stark destroyed his Iron Man suits at the end of Iron Man 3. Obviously we all KNEW hed go back to being Iron Man, but AoU doesnt mention how this happened. Instead we launch straight in with him using a private army of Iron Man drones to invade/protect Sokovia. Pepper Potts was offscreen throughout, which felt especially odd compared to Erik Selvigs pointless cameo.Steve Rogers characterization veered back to its Whedon state inThe Avengers: stuffy and priggish, with no real impact on the plot. Bizarrely, Steves worst nightmare hallucination was little more than a simplistic flashback to WWII, telling us nothing further about the character.Then theres the running joke where Steve (a frontline soldier who grew up in 1930s NYC), scolds Tony for cursing. In what universe does that make any sense, other than to fabricate some LOLs for the Robert Downey Jr quip machine?
While some of AoUs narrative flaws can be blamed on editorial demands from Marvel (ie, too many characters and overly long action sequences, or the needless Infinity Stone foreshadowing), the most glaring problems were often in areas where Joss Whedon usually excels. Lets start with our villain, Ultron.Read more 194 comments: Older PostsHomeSubscribe to:Posts (Atom)About Hello, TailorHello, Tailor is written by costume design critic and geek culture journalist Gavia Baker-Whitelaw.

Twitter: @Hello_Tailor

You can browse my masterlist of review posts here.

Contact Me.

Popular PostsThe costumes and characters of The Avengers. Part 3: Steve Rogers, Captain America.Previously: The costumes and characters of The Avengers. Part 1: SHIELD. and Part 2: Tony Stark, Pepper Potts, and Bruce Banner. As a pe...Captain America: The Winter Soldier -- The Tragedy of Bucky BarnesPart 1: Trust No One -- How Captain America became the gritty superhero we never knew we wanted. Part 2: HYDRA, Sitwell, and di...Costuming and Design in Captain America: The Winter Soldier -- Steve Trust No One -- How Captain America became the gritty superhero we never knew we wanted. Part 2: HYDRA, Sitwell, and di...The costumes of Alien. Part 1: Uniforms and characterisation.It took me until the ripe old age of 22 to see Alien, mostly because my mother warned me for years that it was the Most Terrifying Film Ever...Search This BlogBlog Archive 2016(3) March(1)Rationalizing Wonder Womans Amazon costumes January(2) 2015(11) December(1) July(1) June(1) May(2) April(2) January(4) 2014(38) December(3) November(3) October(3) September(1) August(1) July(3) May(1) April(8) March(4) February(2) January(9) 2013(68) December(2) November(2) October(7) September(9) August(5) July(9) June(6) May(4) April(3) March(5) February(11) January(5) 2012(122) December(6) November(11) October(11) September(13) August(9) July(12) June(13) May(8) April(6) March(7) February(13) January(13) 2011(32) December(8) November(10) October(13) September(1)Disqus for Hello, TailorFollowers
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