Bigger Than Your Head

Time 2021-01-03 18:04:02

Web Name: Bigger Than Your Head

WebSite: http://biggerthanyourhead.net

ID:155472

Keywords:

Than,Bigger,Head,

Description:

Bottles of sparkling wine from J Vineyards and Winery are instantly recognizable for their sleek, minimal package and the slash of a stylized letter J on the front. Judy Jordan launched the winery in 1986, in a 50/50 partnership with her father Tom Jordan, owner of Sonoma County s well-known producer of chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, Jordan Vineyards. (She eventually bought his share.) First using borrowed facilities for make the wines, J moved to a permanent place in 1996, with the acquisition of the old Piper-Sonoma winery. J produces variations on the theme of its Champagne method sparkling wines made from the classic grapes white chardonnay, red pinot noir and pinot meunier and also a roster of single-vineyard chardonnays and pinot noirs, as well as a highly regarded and very drinkable version of pinot gris. Judy Jordan sold J Vineyards to Gallo in 2015. Winemaker is Nicole Hitchcock. Today, I review a pair of the winery s sparkling offerings, the Cuvée 20, originally created for the winery s 20th anniversary, and the Brut Rosé.The J Vineyards Cuvée 20 nv, Russian River Valley, is a blend of 51 percent chardonnay, 40 percent pinot noir and 9 percent pinot meunier, resting en tirage in the bottle, on the lees for 30 months. The color is a pale but brilliant straw-gold hue, enlivened by a constant stream of surging bubbles; notes of fresh-baked bread, spiced pear, quince and ginger permeate a bouquet that unfurls hints of candied orange peel and damp flint; this is vibrant and engaging on the palate, stylish and elegant, crisp with bright acidity yet almost viscous in its tenacious and flowing texture; a few moments in the glass bring out nuanced touches of caramel apple and a saline limestone edge. 12.5 percent alcohol. Excellent. About $38.The blend of grapes for the J Vineyards Brut Rosé nv, Russian River Valley, isn t too much different from the blend of its stablemate mentioned above 57 percent pinot noir, 37 chardonnay and 6 pinot meunier, also spending 30 months in bottle for the second fermentation. The effect, though, is quite different. The color is an entrancing pale salmon-coral hue; bubbles are prolific, profligate, persistent. This is a sparkling wine of hints and nods all notes of raspberry and pink grapefruit, pomander, jasmine and almond skin, with a crystalline touch of candied rose petal; it s dry and stony but lively and appealing in its pert, chiming acidity and fleet effervescence with a heartbeat of red currant at the core elements that draw you toward a finish that scintillates with faceted limestone minerality. 12.5 percent alcohol. Excellent. About $45.As its name implies, the Ram s Gate Winery Blanc de Noirs 2013, Carneros, is made from black grapes, pinot noir, specifically, as is the case in the Champagne tradition. This one rested 72 months in bottle on the lees, resulting in a sparking wine that offers plenty of presence and texture while remaining fresh, delicate and elegant. In fact, I found the freshness, delicacy and elegance of this sparkling wine to be downright alluring and seductive. The color is pale straw-gold, enlivened by an energetic surge of tiny, glinting bubbles; the bouquet is elevating and balletic, a glittering melange of acacia and pear, hay and heather, limestone and lightly buttered and toasted brioche; in structure this sparkler is as fine-boned as Garbo s face, with a crisp texture animated by chiming acidity and a scintillating limestone and chalk element; despite that litheness, it s generous and expressive, providing subtle notes of tangerine, quince and almond blossom, all leading to a high-toned, chiseled finish. I could drink this one all the livelong day. Production was 225 cases. Winemaker was Joe Nielson. Excellent. About $68.Vineyards in the state of Michigan primarily lie within 25 miles of Lake Michigan, benefitting from a lake-effect that moderates temperatures. The state includes five federally approved American Viticultural Areas (AVAs): Fennville, Lake Michigan Shore, Leelanau Peninsula, Old Mission Peninsula and, perhaps the most fanciful AVA title in the country, Tip of the Mitt. Slightly more than half of the grape-growing and winemaking occur in the Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsulas, or what could be called the Thumb o the Mitt. Many acres of the Wolverine State s vineyard are devoted to French-American hybrid grapes, though it s surprising how many wineries grow and make wine from vinifera grapes, that is, the traditional European grapes made into the vast majority of the world s wines. Big Little Wines is a collaboration between brothers Peter and Michael Laing on the Leelanau Peninsula. They are also winemakers for Mawby Sparkling, which, as the name implies, produces only sparkling wines. I ll have some reviews of a selection of those products in a few days. Big Little Wines makes still and sparkling wine and cider. My focus today is the Big Little C 3-Pinot, a non-vintage sparkler that s a blend of 50 percent pinot gris, 30 percent pinot noir and 20 percent pinot blanc that spent two years on the lees in bottle. When I posted this image on Facebook two weeks ago, you can imagine that the name brought a stream of retorts and references to Star Wars and fussy, gold-plated robots. The word for C 3-Pinot is delightful. The color is pale to medium tarnished gold, animated by a gratifying frothing stream of tiny bubbles; hay and heather, acacia, pear and a touch of blood orange; it s a little musky, a bit wild, feeling quite lively with crisp acidity; this sparkler brings more citrus flavors to the palate, along with a burgeoning element of crystalline limestone minerality. It s almost too easy to drink, but pause to give it some thought too. Excellent. About $25.Iron Horse Vineyards traces its origin to the year 1976, when Audrey and Barry Sterling, driving in a rain storm through Sonoma County s Green Valley, topped a crest and saw, lying before them, a rolling landscape of vineyards. They knew that they had found the place they had been looking for. Once the winery was established, Iron Horse, named for a nearby rural railroad stop, produced still wines from a multitude of grape varieties, including cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot noir and zinfandel. In fact, in my first wine notebook, from the early days when I steamed or soaked off labels and pasted them down, there s a label for an Iron Horse Zinfandel 1979. Gradually, the winery drew a stricter focus, and today the offerings are chardonnay and pinot noir for still wines and a range of sparkling wines all made in the Champagne method that of course also employ chardonnay and pinot noir grapes. The winery operates on fully sustainable practices and in the vineyard uses pinpoint farming techniques that concentrate on discrete blocks of vines or even individual vines. CEO of Iron Horse and the highly visible face of the enterprise is Joy Sterling; her brother Laurence Sterling is director of operations. Their father, Barry Sterling, died on July 26, 2020.The Iron Horse website lists 10 sparkling wines currently available. Of those, I m reviewing two today. Winemaker for these was David Munksgard, now winemaker emeritus. Coming on board as winemaker and joining Munksgard in March 2020 was Sofian Himeur, who happens to be the grandson of Gilbert Gruet, founder of Gruet Winery, producer of sparkling wines, in New Mexico.Named for the Reagan-Gorbachov Summit of 1985, the Iron Horse Vineyards Russian Cuvée has been served at State dinners for six consecutive presidential administrations. The name also refers to the perceived Russian preference for a rich, full-bodied Champagne. The Iron Horse Vineyards Russian Cuvée 2016, Green Valley of Russian River Valley, a blend of 73 percent pinot noir and 27 percent chardonnay, spent three years in the bottle on the lees. The color is a fresh medium gold hue; think of it as a finely ground melange of delicate seashell, spiced pear and quince, limestone and apple with a note of lightly buttered cinnamon toast; on the palate, this sparkling wine expresses itself with generosity and allure, adding intriguing touches of heather and hay, damp flint and just a hint of caramel apple, all elements enlivened by abundant effervescence and streaming acidity. 13.5 percent alcohol. Now through 2025 or 26. Excellent. About $48.Four dollars from every bottle sold of the Iron Horse Ocean Reserve Blanc de Blancs goes to the National Geographic s Ocean Initiative. The Iron Horse Ocean Reserve Blanc de Blancs 2016, Green Valley of Russian River Valley, spent three years and a bit more in bottle on the lees and is composed of 100 percent chardonnay. The color is very pale straw-gold, animated by a foaming fount of tiny bubbles; it s steely, chiseled and elegant, a tinseled fabric of guava and kumquat, pear and apple, acacia and jasmine, all expressed with seamless delicacy; some moments in the glass add notes of tangerine and seashell against a foundation of chiming acidity and scintillating limestone and chalk minerality. 13.5 percent alcohol. A sleek beauty. Now through 2025 or 26. Excellent. About $55.It s too cold in Vermont to grow traditional vinifera grapes, that is, the European grapes that most of the world s wine-making regions depend upon. The growing season in the Green Mountain State is too short to allow full ripening. Fortunately, the development of cold-hardy hybrid grapes like the red Frontenac and Marquette or the white Edelweiss and La Crescent makes vine cultivation and winemaking possible in Vermont and other northern states where winters are brutal. La Crescent is the grape in question in the Shelburne Vineyard Iapetus Figure 2 2019, a delightful petillant-naturel wine made by Ethan Joseph. The winery was established in 1998 by Ken Albert, who started by planting a few vines behind the house, and it all ballooned from there. This occurs in the town of Shelburne founded in 1763; population just shy of 7,800 on the shores of Lake Champlain, just down the road from Burlington. The name of the wine derives from the Iapetus Ocean that some 400 to 600 million years ago covered New England, when the Earth s continents displayed a much different configuration. The terrifyingly named Iapetus Suture, in fact, ran right through where Lake Champlain is now. The Shelburne Iapetus Figure 2 2019 fermented on native yeasts and was bottled unfined and unfiltered. The color is a hazy pale straw-gold hue with an ethereal green tint; notes of peach and pear are buoyed by hints of lemon and lime peel and aromas of musk rose and jasmine; this is quite fresh and crisp but projects a beguiling woodsy, almost feral aura; perhaps it s the effect of the grape, but I found this gently sparkling wine to be mysterious and elusive, evoking nuances of meadows, moss and hedge yet founded on a secure footing of citrus, bright acidity and limestone minerality. 13.5 percent alcohol. Production was 62 cases. Excellent. About $28.Sabrine Rodems has received acclaim as winemaker (including from me) for Wrath Wines from the estate San Saba Vineyard and other carefully farmed vineyards in the Santa Lucia Mountains. Rodems also has her own label, named Scratch, for which she produces small lots of wine from San Saba as well as vineyards in Arroyo Seco and Santa Cruz Mountain AVAs.Today we look at her two sparkling wines, a Blanc de Blancs and a Brut Rosé, made in the traditional Champagne method. The Scratch website is notably reticent with technical information for these wines, so we re kind of on our own. No matter!The Scratch Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2018, Monterey, is 100 percent chardonnay. The color is radiant medium straw-gold, enlivened by a surging fount of tiny glinting bubbles; heather, spiced pear, acacia and mimosa blossom, roiled by an aura of smoke and steel; lots of energy and personality, in fact, this sparkler exudes a definite sense of purpose and of a wild and musky attitude that I found irresistible; at the same time, its acid and limestone structure remains lithe, delicate and elegant. 12.2 percent alcohol. Excellent. About $45.The Scratch Brut Rosé 2019, Monterey, is a blend of chardonnay and pinot noir. The color is pale salmon-copper, the bubbles those essential bubbles! like a horde of glistening silver points; blood orange and strawberry in the nose, with notes of cloves, quince and ginger and, under all, a layer of damp limestone minerality; these elements segue to the palate, but the primary character here is a lean, svelte texture riven by pert and sassy acidity and that scintillating limestone quality; a few moments in the glass elicit hints of jasmine and lilac. 12.1 percent alcohol. Excellent. About $49. Pét-Nat is the almost too cute contemporary nickname for Pétillant-Naturel, a method of producing sparkling wine that pre-dates the discovery of the Champagne method by a century, probably in the 1630s. Also called the méthode ancestrale, the process couldn t be simpler. Bottle a wine before fermentation is complete, closing it with a crown cap, and the continuation of fermentation will produce carbon dioxide trapped in the bottle; hence, the bubbles, which tend to be softer, gentler and less prolific than the bubbles in a bottle of Champagne. A pét-nat may be a little cloudy, and it will often throw sediment; nothing to worry your pretty little head about! It s all natural! Once that cap is placed on the bottle, the winemaker loses control of what happens to the wine inside, a notion that lends these wines a rustic, almost feral aspect. These are not wines meant to lay down in your cellar, the way that great Champagnes can sometimes age and develop for decades. Pét-nats are meant to be chilled, opened and consumed with delight and pleasure. The popularity of this category in the country s bars and restaurants has impelled many wineries in these United States to begin producing them. For today s entry in Twelve Days of Christmas with American Sparkling Wine Cider, I offer two exemplary models from disparate regions of California.I have no technical information about The Adroît Initiative The Honey Tongue Devil Pétillant-Natural of Falanghina 2019, San Benito County, because it s sold out at the winery; it is, however, still available at retail. Falanghina is a white grape cultivated since Roman times in the coastal areas of Campania, north of Naples. Adroît Initiative is a label from Seabold Cellars. The color of this enticing pet-nat is medium coral-topaz; a seething froth of tiny bubbles is also attractive; the bouquet is an arresting melange of blood orange and strawberry, lime peel and lemongrass, with a background of damp, crushed shale; this is notably clean and crisp, fresh and quite dry; an abundance of limestone minerality exists in a state of tiny seashell delicacy, while the chiseled finish admits a thread of jasmine and slightly bitter almond skin. 12.3 percent alcohol. Excellent. About $30, and Well-Worth a Search. The wine for the chardonnay-based Fathers Daughters Cellars Sarah s Rustic Bubbles 2018, Anderson Valley the chardonnay grapes from the Roederer Estate fermented naturally in stainless steel barrels and were then bottled unfined and unfiltered to allow the yeast to continue fermentation in the bottle. Don t be startled; it throws harmless sediment. The color is an intriguing pale gold hue with a tinge of pale green; bubbles are gentle pinpricks; lovely musky aromas of gardenia and pear open to notes of apple and tangerine; this is very dry, spare and elegant on the palate, prickly with effervescence and crisp with acidity; meadowy touches and bracing salinity add to the complexity of the limestone-inflected finish. Really charming but with a serious edge. Production was 100 cases. Winemaker was Phillip Baxter Jr. Excellent. About $21, and also Worth a Search. The French term blanc de blancs indicates a sparkling wine fashioned from white grapes, in the case of Champagne, the classic example, meaning all chardonnay. The category distinguishes such a wine from other pale Champagnes made from the white chardonnay and the red pinot noir and pinot meunier. All chardonnay is the case for the Benovia Winery Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine 2017, Russian River Valley. Benovia specializes in a range of single vineyard chardonnays and pinot noirs. For this sparkler, the grapes derived from the winery s Martaella Estate Vineyard. The winery doesn t divulge how long the base wine spent in bottle on the lees during second fermentation, but given the vintage and the date of disgorgement March 2020 I would say two years. The color is pale straw-gold, animated by flurries of tiny tinselly bubbles; this is all smoke and steel, pear and almond blossom, lime peel and hazelnut skin; on the palate, this sparkling wine is sleek, lithe and chiseled, made buoyant by innate effervescence, chiming acidity and a scintillating element of limestone minerality, these elements contributing a lovely sense of texture, tension and release; through the finish candied quince, lemon balm and damp flint, all expressed with subtlety and elegance. 12 percent alcohol. Winemaker and Benovia co-owner was Mike Sullivan. Production was 226 cases. Drink now through 2026 or 27, well-stored. Excellent. About $50. Welcome to the first entry of this year s The 12 Days of Christmas with American Sparkling Wine Cider. This Yuletide season Dec. 25, Christmas Day, to Jan. 5, the Epiphany marks the second for the series, which supersedes The 12 Days of Christmas with Champagne Sparkling Wine. That series ran from 2007/08 through 2018/19. I ll launch this sequence with two sparkling wines from a small outfit, Sheldon Wines in Santa Rosa, Sonoma County. Even husband-and-wife Dylan and Tobe Sheldon, two crazy kids with a dream, former world-wanderers and eternal wine fanatics, describe their enterprise as a micro-winery. There s no chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon or sauvignon blanc at Sheldon Wines. The grapes lean toward grenache and grenache blanc, carignan and graciano, syrah and tempranillo, drawn from carefully nurtured, organic vineyards, hand-harvested and foot-trod. Only neutral oak and stainless steel are used no new oak. Dylan, the winemaker, and Tobe, the marketer and everything else, produce about 1,000 cases a year. What I m considering today are the Sheldon Wines Tempranillo Brut Rosé 2019, Sonoma County, and the Sheldon Wines Sparkling Graciano 2019, also from Sonoma County but specifically from the Fountaingrove AVA, a little-known but historic area approved in 2015. Though the hilly Fountaingrove encompasses 38,000 acres, only 500 acres are in vines. It s in the central-eastern reaches of Sonoma County, actually abutting Napa Valley s western mountain ranges.These are traditional sparkling wines made in the Champagne method of second fermentation in the bottle. The Sheldon Tempranillo Brut Rosé 19 displays a pale salmon-smoky topaz hue and a gratifying abundance of tiny glinting silver bubbles; the initial impression is strawberry and raspberry scents that unfurl notes of melon and apple; the entire package is quite fresh and appealing, crisp with bright acidity and a feather of crystalline limestone minerality; the effervescence engages the palate with energy, while the finish brings in a note of tangerine and lime peel. 11.8 percent alcohol. Production was 50 cases; come on, it s a micro-winery. Excellent. About $30.About half that amount exists of the Sheldon Wines Sparkling Graciano 2019, Sonoma County, Fountaingrove AVA. This model fits into the slender niche of sparkling red wines, with a color that s about as deep opaque purple as a wine could be; it s pure grapy black raspberry with notes of black pepper and hibiscus tea, bracing acidity and a kind of foundational and refreshing bitterness on the finish; it s dry but flavorful, in a dark feral fashion, lithe and mildly effervescent on the palate; faced with a platter of Italian hard cheeses and salumi, you would be wise to choose such a sparkler to cut the richness and provide a dark, lively, vinous lift, as the best Lambruscos do in Emilia-Romagna. Production was 24 cases. Excellent. About $30. I would be remiss not to mention that the Sheldons possess if that s the word a splendid dog in the character of Baloo, a young Weimaraner. I know Baloo only through seeing his exploits on Facebook, but I hope to meet him some day. Well, this should be a useful roster of wines to get you through the Yuletide season or the Twelve Days of Christmas. This sequence of days, however you wish to term it, will not be as festive this year, as Covid-19 rages through our land and millions of people ignore the most basic safety precautions. So, hunker down in place, remain in the bosom of your family, feel what joy you can derive from their presence, read a good book and eat and drink well. Most of these wines a truly diverse list cost under $20, so the strain on your wallet won t be too difficult. Enjoy, in moderation, of course, and Merry Christmas Eve!Weingut Dautel Wurttemberg Weissburgunder 2017, Mosel, Germany. 13% alc. 100% pinot blanc. Bright medium gold hue; jasmine and honeysuckle, quince and ginger, baked apple; hay and heather, quite meadowy; lovely silken texture animated by crystalline acidity and the presence of limestone minerality that seems to shimmer in the glass. Now through 2022. Excellent. About $17, representing Good Value.Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Chenin Blanc 2019, Clarksburg. 13% alc. Pale straw-gold; the freshness and immediate appeal of a wine made all in stainless steel; hay, figs, white pepper; lemon balm, greengage and acacia; very dry (as its name asserts), with hints of melon, mango and tangerine; all these aspects poised in a sleek, supple, lithe texture buoyed by racy acidity and a bracing saline finish. Now through 2022. Excellent. About $16, always one of the World s Great Wine Bargains. Father Daughters Cellars Ferrington Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County. Pale straw-gold with a tinge of green; lime peel, lemongrass and fennel; lilac, heather, a touch of celery seed; quite dry, with an enticing, almost powdery texture fed by clean, bright acidity; citrus element gives way to more stone-fruit on the palate, with a touch of melon; the finish rose petals and lemon balm a chiseled layer of flint and limestone. Now through 2022. Excellent. About $25.Firesteed Pinot Noir 2019, Oregon. 13.5% alc. Made all in stainless steel; fresh and vibrant; pure transparent cherry red hue; red and black cherries and currants; touch of cloves and cranberry; dry, light nd drinkable, but displaying an intriguing element of woodsy darkness; pleasing silken texture. Very Good+. About $17.Lemelson Vineyards Tikka s Run Pinot Gris 2018, Willamette Valley. 13% alc. Medium gold hue; lime peel and lemon balm, quince and ginger, spiced pear and grapefruit; hints of dried sage and thyme; lovely round texture, juicy and citric, crisp and lively; at the core, a note of lemon oil and sunny, leafy fig. Drink through 2022. Excellent. About $22.Roaming Dog Red Blend 2018, Columbia Valley, Washington. 14.5% alc. Almost 1/3 each cabernet sauvignon, malbec and merlot, with 3% cabernet franc. A label from Aquilini Family Wines. Dark ruby-purple; black and red currants and raspberries, hints of lavender and bittersweet chocolate, cloves and allspice, sage and dried rosemary; lively and appealing, a thread of graphite-tinged tannins; gets darker and spicier through the fruit-drenched finish. Now through 2022. Very Good+. About $14.Chateau Sainte Eulalie Plaisir d Eulalie 2018, Minervois. Blend of grenache, syrah and carignan. Dark ruby hue with a magenta rim; black currants and plums; flint, loam, dusty graphite; pure spiced and macerated black cherry on the palate, a bit resiny and coniferous; robust and a tad rustic with shaggy tannins. Requires robust and rustic fare. Very Good+. About $14.Sosie Wines Rossi Ranch White Blend 2019, Sonoma Valley. 14.6% alc. Blend of roussanne, grenache blanc and marsanne grapes. Medium straw-gold hue; beguiling musky bouquet featuring spiced pear and honeydew melon, jasmine and acacia blossom, garrigue and lemon peel; quite dry, spare and lithe on the palate; hints of pineapple and mango, dried thyme and sage; an arrow of bright acidity through to a finish flecked with limestone and flint. Now through 2023 or 24. Excellent. About $35. Tamarack Cellars Firehouse Red 2017, Columbia Valley, Washington. 13.9% alc. O.K., get ready 33% syrah, 27% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot, 11% cabernet franc, 3% mourvedre, 2% each grenache, counoise, sangiovese and petit verdot. What? No alicante bouschet or zinfandel? Happily, this is a case of the parts adding up to a gratifying whole. Dark ruby shading to a magenta rim; red and black currants and cherries, loam and graphite; a touch of plum; thickets of briers and brambles, but a sleek, lithe texture riven by bright acidity, so lively and vibrant; very tasty, right through the clean finish. Very Good+. About $20.Tasca d Almenita Fondazione Whitaker Mozia Grillo 2019, Sicilia. 13.5% alc. Very pale straw color; eminently clean, fresh and bright; lemon peel, nectarine, quince and ginger; acacia and mimosa blossom; lip-smacking crisp acidity powers through a lovely almost talc-like texture for exquisite balance, buoyed by a crystalline stony quality; a note of dried Mediterranean herbs in the depth lends a savory touch, as does a finish like a bracing, salt-borne breeze. Delightful and provocative. Excellent. About $22.Thierry Delauney Le Grand Ballon Gamay 2018, Touraine, Loire Valley. 13% alc. Transparent ruby-magenta hue; fresh and ripe, slightly fleshy black currants and raspberries; notes of tobacco, wood smoke and cedar; vibrant and mouth-filling, caresses the palate with a silky texture and seductive, graphite-tinged tannins; floods the finish with hints of iodine, mint and juicy blueberry. Very Good+. About $14.This OneBiggerThanYourHead gazes critically at the creating and preparing, the marketing and selling, the truth and the hypocrisy, the issues and the language behind what we eat and drink. 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