BitterOrange — LiveJournal
Time 2021-11-25 07:27:45Web Name: BitterOrange — LiveJournal
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keywords: description:Grated Ponkan Rinds*****
resumed driving practice with my uncle. nakapagdrive na ako hanggang benowa omg. naiinip na ako!! i could taste my Ps na. that is, if i dont fail the practical exam, harhar. dami kasing rules sa Oz e!! hmp!
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spent australia day with friends from the real estate office =). spa/swimming bbq at chevron renaissance. isa itong perfect example of biglaang lakad na natutuloy hahaha. pagod but had fun =) Leave a commentShareFlag
18.01.10bitterorangeJanuary 18th, 2010Current Mood: sleepyspoke to a guy with a full-on face tattoo kanina. he's part maori and apparently, the patterns are passed on from generation to generation pala. he was telling me all this hassle he went through changing his IDs and passport photos when he got his face inked. hehehe. poor guy.
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big day out last sunday. i was in southport buying some stuff and andaming festival-goers sa bus terminal. puno lahat ng bus papuntang parklands. this bangag girl came up to me, asked my name and gave me a high-five. i asked her if she was on her way to the festival, high-fived her back then moved away a bit, lol. baka mamaya mapagtripan pa ako coz i looked like a clueless asian FOB (which i probably am. hahaha). isa akong turista sa sarili kong city. (yes, parts of GC is starting to feel like home...keyword is *starting*)
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home alone month ends this sunday. the backyard now looks like a mini talahiban coz nobody's cutting the grass. i managed to learn a few more recipes without burning the house down. that was a pretty interesting 4 weeks. charge ulit to experience. Leave a commentShareFlag
kasalanan ng facebook! HAHAHAbitterorangeJanuary 3rd, 2010omg i've abandoned my lj! hahaha. kasalanan ng facebook, hahaha.
nothing beats the satisfaction i get from writing in my blog. posting statuses on FB is like getting a sugar high - it hits you fast then you come down from it just as quick. blogging is like eating a full meal, it'll keep you going for longer. i guess i've been eating too much junk. but FB isn't all bad. i find that it's a really convenient way to communicate and share. though of course, like any public forum, you have to be careful with what you post and be considerate of other people too. (so sa lahat ng mga inasar at napagtripan ko, sorry. ehehehe ^_^)
anyway... ang saya ng new year namin kasi inulan kami, harhar. pero astig na rin. i bought sparklers so the kids have something to play with. then we watched the fireworks na lang on TV. bongga yung fireworks sa sydney, sana magkaroon ako ng chance na makita sya someday. atsaka dapat next year handa na rin kami for any kind of new year weather - kelangan yata may tent na. hahaha! the weather's getting increasingly unpredictable na kasi. since i came here, nakaranas ako ng hail, sandstorm, heatwave... all in the course of two years. (and let's not forget ONDOY... naramdaman ko pa rin sya kahit malayo grabeh). maybe in the future, we should all be living in bunkers hahaha. or better yet, in stylish eco houses! hehe! maswerte nga etong mga residents ng Queensland eh, coz the government gives them rebates for insulating their homes and converting their cars to LPG. I think they also have a similar thing for solar water heaters. I read somewhere that australians have the largest carbon footprint per person in the world. (nge. kaya siguro nabutas yung ozone layer sa taas nila, hahaha) bakit kaya? is it because they like to live in such giant houses and drive utes and trucks?? lolz. sa totoo lang ang hirap mag-maintain kasi ng malaking bahay. plus all the mowing that you have to do pa. i guess they like it big. but honestly, it's not my kind of thing. quality over quantity i guess. Leave a commentShareFlag
What to do when your house has been hit by a floodbitterorangeSeptember 28th, 2009Hi all! Please pardon my spam I've compiled this information for those who have been hit by the floods in Manila. I'm sending this information to everybody in my address book. Who knows... this might be of use to you or to somebody you know. Thanks take care everybody.
http://www.typhoono ndoy.org/
http://www.ondoyrel ief.org/
What to do when your house has been hit by a flood
When you first re-enter your home
Turn off your main power supply if there is still standing water in your home. Do this only if the switch is on a dry location. If you must enter standing water to access the main power switch, then call an electrician to turn it off.
CDC warns that you should never tinker with the power switch or use an electric tool or appliance while standing in water.
Ask an electrician to check your houses electrical system before switching on your power supply.
If the house has been closed for several days, enter briefly to open doors and windows to let the house air out for a while for at least 30 minutes.
CDC says that if your house has been flooded and closed for several days, it may be contaminated with mold or sewage.
When cleaning up your home
Wear rubber boots, rubber gloves, and goggles when cleaning up your home. Make sure that children and pets are away from the affected area.
Throw items that cannot be washed and disinfected, such as mattresses, carpets, rugs, sofa sets, cosmetics, stuffed toys, pilloys, books, wall coverings, paper products.
Remove and discard drywall and insulation that has been contaminated with sewage or flood waters.
With hot water and detergent, clean hard surfaces like floors, walls, wood and metal furniture, countertops, appliances, sinks, and other plumbing fixtures.
After the clean-up, wash your hands with soap and warm water that has been boiled for a minute then cooled down after. You may use disinfected water, too.
With hot water and detergent, wash clothes youve worn during the clean-up or those contaminated by flood water or sewage water.
Outside your home, have your onsite waste-water system professionally inspected and serviced if you suspect damage.
Seek immediate medical attention if you become injured or ill.
When drying out your house
If an electrician says your power supply is safe to turn on, CDC advises you to use a wet-dry shop vacuum to remove standing flood water. You may also use an electric-powered water transfer pump or a sump pump.
Make sure you wear rubber boots.
If you do not have electricity yet or if you have, but it is still unsafe to turn your power supply on use a portable generator to power equipment to suck standing flood water.
CDC adds: If you must use a gasoline-powered pump, generator, pressure washer, or any other gasoline-powered tool to clean your home, never operate the gasoline engine inside a home, basement garage, carport, porch or other enclosed or partially enclosed structures, even if windows and doors are open. Such improper use can create dangerously high levels of carbon monoxide and can cause carbon monoxide poisoning.
Open windows and doors of the house if the weather allows. You may use dehumidifiers and fans to remove excess moisture.
Before turning on an air-conditioning unit or heating/ventilating system, have a maintenance or service professional check for possible mold contamination. Professional cleaning will kill the mold and prevent later mold growth.
A Description of Typical House Flood Damages and Cleanup Requirements:
When your house floods, the water can wreak havoc on the structure of the house, your personal belongings, and the health of the inside environment. Flood waters contain many contaminants and lots of mud. High dollar items can get ruined all at once, even with just an inch of water, for example: carpeting, wallboard, appliances, and furniture. A more severe storm or deeper flood may add damage to even more expensive systems, like: ducts, the heater and air conditioner, roofing, private sewage and well systems, utilities, and the foundation.
After a flood, cleaning up is a long and hard process. Here is a list of common techniques for sanitizing and cleaning flooded items:
First things first: call your insurance agent. If your insurance covers the damage, your agent will tell you when an adjuster will contact you. List damage and take photos or videotape as you clean. You'll need complete records for insurance claims, applications for disaster assistance and income tax deductions.Contaminated mud-Shovel out as much mud as possible, then use a garden sprayer or hose to wash away mud from hard surfaces.Clean and disinfect every surface. Scrub surfaces with hot water and a heavy-duty cleaner. Then disinfect with a solution of 1/4 cup chlorine bleach per gallon of water or a product that is labeled as a disinfectant to kill germs.In the kitchen-
Immerse glass, porcelain, china, plastic dinnerware and enamelware for 10 minutes in a disinfecting solution of 2 tablespoons of chlorine bleach per gallon of hot water. Air-dry dishes. Do not use a towel.Disinfect silverware, metal utensils, and pots and pans by boiling in water for 10 minutes. Chlorine bleach should not be used in this case because it reacts with many metals and causes them to darken.Cupboards and counters need to be cleaned and rinsed with a chlorine bleach solution before storing dishes.Furniture and household items-
Take furniture, rugs, bedding and clothing outside to dry as soon as possible. Use an air conditioner or dehumidifier to remove moisture or open at least two windows to ventilate with outdoor air. Use fans to circulate air in the house. If mold and mildew have already developed, brush off items outdoors to prevent scattering spores in the house. Vacuum floors, ceilings and walls to remove mildew, then wash with disinfectant. Wear a two-strap protective mask to prevent breathing mold spores.Mattresses should be thrown away.Upholstered furniture soaks up contaminants from floodwaters and should be cleaned only by a professional.Wood veneered furniture is usually not worth the cost and effort of repair.
Solid wood furniture can usually be restored, unless damage is severe.Toys and stuffed animals may have to be thrown away if they've been contaminated by floodwaters.Photographs, books and important papers can be frozen and cleaned later. They should be dried carefully and slowly. Wash the mud off and store the articles in plastic bags and put them in a frost-free freezer to protect from mildew and further damage until you have time to thaw and clean them or take them to a professional. Ceilings and walls-
Wallboard acts like a sponge when wet. Remove wallboard, plaster and paneling to at least the flood level. If soaked by contaminated floodwater, it can be a permanent health hazard and should be removed. If most of the wallboard was soaked by clean rainwater, consider cutting a 4- to 12-inch-high section from the bottom and top of walls. This creates a chimney effect of air movement for faster drying. A reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade works well, but use only the tip of the blade and watch out for pipes, ductwork and wiring.Plaster and paneling can often be saved, but air must be circulated in the wall cavities to dry the studs and sills.The three kinds of insulation must be treated differently. Styrofoam might only need to be hosed off. Fiberglass batts should be thrown out if muddy but may be reused if dried thoroughly. Loose or blown-in cellulose should be replaced since it holds water for a long time and can lose its antifungal and fire retardant abilities.Electrical system-
The system must be shut off and repaired and inspected by an electrician before it can be turned back on. Wiring must be completely dried out- even behind walls. Switches, convenience outlets, light outlets, entrance panel, and junction boxes that have been under water may be filled with mud.Heating and cooling systems and ducts-
Will need inspection and cleaning. Flood-soaked insulation should be replaced.Appliances-
Appliances will get stains, odors, silt deposits, and gritty deposits and need to be serviced, cleaned and sanitized. Running equipment before it is properly cleaned could seriously damage it and/or shock you. Professional cleaning is recommended for electronics, TVs and radios, washing machines, dryers, dishwashers, and vacuum cleaners. The hard exterior can be hand cleaned. All metallic appliances that have been flooded should be properly grounded to prevent electric shock. Mud or dirt in a grounded outlet or adapter may prevent the grounding system from working, and you could be electrocuted.Pump out the basement-
If your basement is full or nearly full of water, pump out just 2 or 3 feet of water each day. If you drain the basement too quickly, the pressure outside the walls will be greater than the pressure inside the walls. That may make the walls and floor crack and collapse.Floors-
With wood subflooring, the floor covering (vinyl, linoleum, carpet) must be removed so the subflooring can dry thoroughly which may take several months. Open windows and doors to expose the boards to as much air as possible.
Carpeting-
Clean and dry carpets and rugs as quickly as possible. If sewage-contaminated floodwater covered your carpeting, discard it for health safety reasons. Also discard if the carpet was under water for 24 hours or more. To clean, drape carpets and rugs outdoors and hose them down. Work a disinfecting carpet cleaner into soiled spots with a broom. To discourage mildew and odors, rinse with a solution of 2 tablespoons bleach to 1 gallon water, but don't use this solution on wool or nylon carpets. Dry the carpet and floor thoroughly before replacing the carpet. Padding is nearly impossible to clean so should be replaced. If the carpet can't be removed, dry it as quickly as possible using a wet/dry vacuum and dehumidifier. Use a fan to circulate air above the carpet, and if possible, lift the carpet and ventilate with fans underneath.Vinyl flooring and floor tile may need to be removed to allow drying of subfloor.Wood floors-
Wooden floors should be dried gradually. Sudden drying could cause cracking or splitting. Some restoration companies can accelerate drying time by forcing air through the fluted underside of hardwood floorboards. Remove hardwood floor boards to prevent buckling. Remove a board every few feet to reduce buckling caused by swelling. Clean and dry wood before attempting repairs.Roof damage and leaks-
Defective flashing- Flashing is the sheet metal used in waterproofing roof valleys, hips and the angle between a chimney and a roof. Wet spots near a chimney or outside wall may mean the leak is caused by defective flashing, narrow flashing or loose mortar joints. Look for corroded, loose or displaced flashing on sloping roof valleys and at junctions of dormers and roof.Clogged downspouts or eaves- Check for choked downspouts. Accumulated water or snow on the roof above the flashing may cause a leak. Ice accumulations on eaves sometimes form ridges, which cause melting snow to back up under the shingles.Cracks and deterioration- Roofing (especially wood or composition shingles) usually deteriorates first on southern exposures. Check southern slopes for cracking or deterioration.Holes- Missing shingles or holes in the roofing may be causing wet spots. To find holes, check for a drip trail or spot of light coming through in the attic. Stick a nail, straw or wire through the hole to mark the spot on the outside.Private sewage systems-
Flooding of a private sewage system can be a hazardous situation for homeowners. It may lead to a back-up of sewage in the home, contaminated drinking water and lack of sanitation until the system is fixed. When flooding or saturated soil conditions persist, a private sewage system cannot function properly. Soil treatment systems for wastewater rely on aerobic (with oxygen) regions to reduce the amounts of chemicals and living organisms (viruses, bacteria and protozoa). When the soil is saturated or flooded, those hazardous materials can enter the groundwater and your drinking water supply.
Flood-Damaged Furniture and Appliances-Deciding What To Salvage And Tips On Reconditioning
Evaluating appliance damage is a high priority after a flood. Have a service person check flooded appliances before you attempt operation or invest a lot of time in clean-up.
Deciding which furniture to save may be a more personal issue, especially if you have antiques and other pieces with sentimental value. Keep in mind that you don't need to repair all pieces of salvageable furniture immediately. You can clean, dry and store them in a warm, well-ventilated place until you have time to deal with them.
Before entering a home after a flood, be sure that the electricity to the dwelling has been completely shut off. (See the fact sheet, Electrical Systems and Appliances. ) Appliances should not be operated until they have been checked by service personnel.
Here are some things that may need to be done:
Electrical motors may need to be reconditioned or replaced.Wiring and fixtures need to be checked and cleaned. They may also need replacement.Before cleaning and sanitizing an appliance, be sure the motor is in safe working order. It may not be worth the time to clean up the unit.A rust inhibitor may need to be applied to all metal parts. Even though an appliance may not have been submerged, rust can develop from dampness in the air. REFRIGERATORS AND FREEZERSSanitize the refrigerator or freezer if water has seeped in. Be sure the motor and freezing unit are in safe working order and insulation is not wet. Wet insulation means replacement may be necessary.
Remove and wash all shelves, crispers and ice trays. Wash thoroughly with water and detergent. Rinse with a disinfectant solution.Wash the interior of the refrigerator, including the door and door gasket, with hot water and baking soda. Rinse with a disinfectant solution.Leave the door open for about 15 minutes to allow free air circulation.If odor remains, place several pieces of activated charcoal in an open metal container, or use a commercial refrigerator deodorizer.Wash the outside with a mild detergent and hot water. LAUNDRY EQUIPMENTAfter washers and dryers have been reconditioned, sanitize them as follows:
Pour a disinfectant (chlorine, pine oil or phenolic) into the empty washing machine. Then complete a 15-minute cycle at the hot water setting.Unplug the dryer and wipe the drum and door with a cloth dipped in disinfectant solution. Rinse with a cloth dipped in clear water.Leave the dryer door open until all parts are thoroughly dry - preferably overnight. FURNITUREBefore starting to salvage damaged furniture, decide which pieces are worth restoring. Such decisions should be based on: the extent of damage, cost of the article, sentimental value and cost of restoration. Antiques are probably worth the time, effort and expense of restoration. Unless damage is severe, you may be able to clean and refinish antiques at home.
Don't try to force open swollen wooden doors and drawers. Instead, take off the back of the piece of furniture to let the air circulate. You probably will be able to open the drawers after they dry.Solid wood furniture can usually be restored, unless damage is severe. It probably will need to be cleaned, dried and re-glued. Wood alcohol or turpentine applied with a cotton ball may remove white mildew spots on wood. Cream wood restorers with lanolin will help restore good wooden furniture parts.Wood veneered furniture is usually not worth the cost and effort of repair, unless it is very valuable. If veneer is loose in just a few places, you may be able to glue it adequately.Upholstered furniture soaks up contaminants from floodwaters and should be cleaned only by a professional. Get a cost estimate to see if furniture is worth saving. Usually, flood-soaked upholstered pieces should be thrown away unless they are antiques or quite valuable.Cleaning Flood Damage - How To Bedding
Mattresses
A good innerspring mattress should be sent to a commercial renovating company. Renovation is too difficult to do at home. Ask about the cost of such work. It could be less expensive to buy a good reconditioned or new mattress. If mattress must be used temporarily, scrape off surface dirt and expose it to sunlight to dry as much as possible. Cover mattress with a rubber sheet before using it. If you decide to keep any flood-soiled mattress, it should be sterilized. This must be done at a sterilizing plant--a mattress company or a state hospital. Ask your local public health department for information on mattress sterilizing plants in your area. Have mattresses as dry as possible before taking them to a sterilizing plant. Crop drying fans or household fans may speed up the drying process.
Pillows
Feather pillows If ticking is in good condition, wash feathers and ticking together.
To circulate water through pillows, open a few inches of the seam in opposite corners of the pillow, turn edges in, sew loosely with strong thread, or fasten with safety pins. Wash in machine or by hand in warm (not hot) suds 15 to 20 minutes. Use a disinfectant in the wash cycle. If using an automatic washer, do not wash more than two pillows at a time. Rinse at least three times in clear, warm water. Spin off water or gently squeeze out as much water as possible. Do not put pillows through a wringer. Dry in an automatic dryer at moderate heat setting, or dry in a warm room with a fan, or across two or three clotheslines. Put several bath towels in dryer with pillows to speed up drying. Allow at least 2 hours. Shake up feather occasionally to hasten drying.
Washing feather and ticking separately. If ticking is not in good condition, or if pillow is badly soiled, wash feather and ticking separately.
Open one edge of ticking.
Sew the open edges of the ticking and the bag together.
Shake the feather from ticking to muslin bag.
Close seam of bag.
Wash bag of feather in lukewarm, sudsy water and disinfectant.
Repeat if necessary.
Rinse in lukewarm water, changing water several times.
Squeeze out as much water as possible by hand. Do not use a wringer.
To air-dry, hang on line by two corners. Change positions end to end and shake feather occasionally to speed up drying.
Finish drying pillows by laying them on a flat surface or pinning them to a clothesline to dry in the open air.
Wash the ticking. With a sponge, apply a starch solution to the inside of the ticking.
Transfer clean feather to the clean, sanitized starched ticking, using the same methods as for emptying.
Close seam of ticking.
If pillows have been badly soaked, it may not be possible to remove all objectionable odors.
Polyester Fiberfill Pillows
Brush off surface dirt.Wash by hand in warm water and low-sudsing detergent. Add a disinfectant to the wash water. Flush water through pillow by compressing it. (Twisting and wringing will tear filling). Change water and repeat if necessary.
Rinse three times in clear, warm water.
Spin off water in automatic machine. Tumble dry in dryer at moderate setting with several bath towels, or press out as much water as possible by hand, and hang on line outdoors to dry.
Foam Rubber or Urethane Pillows
Remove cover. Brush off surface dirt.Follow manufacturer' s directions if they are available. Otherwise, soak in cool water; then wash in warm suds by hand. Use a bathtub or large sink. Then wash by pushing down on pillow, releasing, and pushing down again. Rinse the same way. Pillows can be machine-washed on gentle cycle with lukewarm water plus a disinfectant.
Rinse well in lukewarm water.
Gently squeeze or spin out excess water. Blot with towels.
Dry away from heat and sunlight. Do not dry in dryer unless on an air only setting. Pillows may dry very slowly in the air.
Blankets, Quilts and Comforters:
Wash only one blanket, quilt, or comforter at a time.
Shake and brush to remove surface dirt. Follow manufacturer' s laundering directions if available. Otherwise, proceed as follows.Soak at least 15 minutes in lukewarm water. Turn two or three times during soak period. Several soak periods may be beneficial depending on the amount of soil lodged in fibers. Change water for each soak period.
Use a mild detergent, disinfectant and lukewarm water. Immerse blanket and work suds in gently, using as little agitation as possible. If necessary change water and repeat.
Rinse in several changes of lukewarm water.
Gently squeeze out water. Hang blanket over two lines to dry so it forms an M shape or dry it in preheated dryer with several large dry bath towels. Remove blanket from dryer while it is still damp and hang over two lines to finish drying. Gently stretch blanket into shape.
Brush blanket on both sides with stiff brush to raise nap, press binding, using synthetic setting on iron. Wash lightweight quilts following directions for wool blankets. Dry outdoors in sunlight, if possible, to remove unpleasant odors. You may need to take thick comforters apart, and wash cover and filling separately. Electric blankets are washed as you would normally.
Sheets, Towels, Linens
Brush off as much loose dirt as possible.Rinse mud-stained fabrics in cold water to take out particles of soil lodged in fibers.
Wash in warm suds and disinfectant several times if necessary. Do not use hot water since it will set red and yellow clay stains.
If stains remain after several washings, try bleaching white cottons and linens with chlorine or sodium perborate bleach. Do not over bleach. Sun drying will aid bleaching. Bleaches may be used on some colored fabrics; follow directions on bleach package. Books and Papers
Dry books and papers slowly:
When they are partially dry, pile and press books to keep pages from crumpling.
Alternate drying and pressing until books are thoroughly dry. This helps prevent mildew. Use a fan to hasten drying.
If books and papers are very damp, sprinkle cornstarch or talcum powder between the leaves to absorb moisture. Leave powder for several hours and then brush off.
When books are nearly dry, apply low heat with an electric iron. Separate the page to prevent musty odors. This is a tedious process which you may want to use only with valuable books.
When books are thoroughly dry, close them and use C-clamps to help them retain their shape.
Even if books and papers appear to have dried successfully, they may disintegrate rapidly because of materials in the flood water. Any important documents or paper should be photocopied as a precautionary measure. Cooking Utensils
Before using any dishes, pots, pans or cooking utensils that were in contact with flood water, wash and sterilize them.
Wash dishes, pots, pans and utensils in hot, sudsy water. Use a brush, if necessary, to remove dirt.
After sudsing and brushing, rinse in clear water. Place dishes in a wire basket or other container and dip them in a sanitizing solution. Use a solution recommended by local health authorities or use 1 1/2 tablespoons sodium hypo-chlorite bleach to a gallon of water. Or immerse dishes in boiling water for at least two minutes. An alternative method is to boil dishes for a half minute.
Air-dry dishes. Do not dry them with a dish towel. If cupboards and food preparation surfaces were in contact with flood water, clean and sterilize them before storing dishes and utensils. Floor Coverings
Subfloor
Water coming up from below will cause most damage to subfloor material. If a linoleum or vinyl floor covering is not under water many days, the floor covering may partially protect the subfloor material. Long submersion, however, will loosen adhesives and warp sub-flooring. If a plywood or hardwood subfloor is wet, you should probably remove the linoleum or vinyl and replace the subfloor material.
Removing Loosened Floor Coverings
Some floor coverings may crack or break when you try to loosen them. Contact a reputable dealer to find out what solvent will loosen adhesives with minimal damage to linoleum or vinyl. Heating with a heat lamp or propane torch may make the covering less brittle. How easily the covering can be lifted depends on the material and adhesive. If the adhesive is waterproof, it may be difficult, if not impossible, to remove the floor covering without considerable damage.
Tiles
If the floor has not been badly soaked, you may not need to replace the subfloor. It is possible to re-cement loosened tiles of any type. Be sure the floor is thoroughly dry before trying to re-cement. Blisters may be left in linoleum tiles after warped wooden flooring has dried. Carefully puncture each blister with a nail. With a hand syringe (from store, force diluted linoleum paste through the hole, and weight the linoleum bricks.
Sheet Linoleum or Vinyl
Water may have seeped under a loose section of vinyl or sheet linoleum. Carefully remove the entire sheet. Allow the floor to dry thoroughly before trying to re- cement the linoleum. Thorough drying may take as long as 6 weeks or more. Use a new sheet or lining felt before re-cementing the floor covering.
Cleaning Flood-Soiled Carpets
Dry: It is very important to dry rugs and carpets as soon as possible to prevent mildew, a spreading gray-white mold that stains and rots fabrics. Pull up waterlogged rugs immediately to prevent further damage to the floor. If possible, dry small rugs outdoors in sunlight.To get air and heat to carpets, open windows if weather permits, or use household electric fans, crop drying fans or electric lights suspended in coat hanger nests. Do not try to vacuum, sweep or shampoo carpets until they are thoroughly dry.Sweep or Vacuum: After the carpet is dry, thoroughly vacuum or sweep to get rid of dirt and debris. Move the vacuum cleaner slowly to pick up more dirt. Clean off as much crusted dirt and sediment as possible before shampooing.
Shampoo: Some rugs may shrink when shampooed. Use a commercial rug shampoo or make your own shampoo by mixing 1/4 cup mild dry detergent and 1 cup warm water in a pail. Beat the mixture with an egg beater until it forms a stiff foam that looks like whipped cream.With a sponge, rub suds on a small patch of carpet (about 2 feet square) with a light circular motion. Use only the foam. (If foam disappears during the shampooing process, beat the mixture again.) Work suds in with sponge. Use a stiff bristle brush if carpet is deeply soiled.Dip sponge in a weak chlorine solution (1/4 teaspoon Clorox to 1 cup water). Wring out sponge and wipe suds off carpet. Rinse several times with clear water, wringing most of the water from the sponge each time. Change the rinse water as it becomes dirty. Use as little water as possible on the sponge since water will weaken carpet backing.
Blot up remaining moisture with bath towels or other soft absorbent material. Apply lather to another small area, overlapping the first. (overlapping helps prevent streaking when the carpet dries). Rinse and blot dry. Continue until the entire surface has been cleaned.
Dry After Shampooing: Dry rugs or carpets quickly. Hang rugs on line if possible, or lay them out flat in a warm dry place. An electric fan will speed up drying. Carpets and rugs should be thoroughly dried. Even though the surface seems dry, any moisture remaining at the base of the fiber tufts will cause mildew or rot. If you must walk on the carpet before it is dry, put down brown paper. Vacuum when dry, and brush the nap in one direction.
Resize:Some types of machine-made pile rugs may need re-sizing to make them lie flat. To resize a rug:
Lay the rug face down on papers where it can remain undisturbed for several days.Check to be sure rug is straight. Tack it down at intervals.
Dissolve 1/2 pound granulated glue in 1 gallon boiling water.
With a whitewash brush or whisk broom, brush hot glue over the back of the rug. Do not use so much glue that it will soak through the right side of the rug.
Let the glue dry thoroughly. Odor
To get rid of the stench that often accompanies flooding, scrub all interior surfaces that were in contact with flood waters. Use hot sudsy water followed by a rinse solution of 2 tablespoons sodium hypo-chlorite (chlorine) laundry bleach to a gallon of water. Or use a liquid household disinfectant, following manufacturers directions. Repeat the scrubbing and rinsing if necessary until the odor is gone.
Upholstered FurnitureUpholstered furniture that has been submerged in flood water may be impossible to salvage if it has been badly soaked. If the piece seems worth the effort, however you will need to clean and oil the springs, replace stuffing, and clean the frame.
Stuffing and Covering
Remove furniture coverings using a ripping tool, hammer, or tack puller, screwdriver, or chisel.Remove all tacks from the frame.
Wash coverings as described for carpets.
Throw away all cotton stuffing. You can dry, fumigate and reuse padding made of materials other than cotton.
Springs and Frame
Wipe off springs and frame. Dry all metal parts and paint them with rust inhibiting paint. Oil springs.Store wood frames where they will dry out slowly.
Mildew
Mildew may have developed on damp or wet furniture. Mildew is a gray-white mold that leaves stains and rots fabric unless it is removed promptly. To remove mildew or mildew spots:
Vacuum the surface to draw out mold. Dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag outside to avoid scattering mold spores in the house.
If mildew remains and fabric is washable, sponge lightly with thick soap or detergent suds. Wipe with a clean, damp cloth. Get as little water on the fabric as possible, so the padding doesn't get wet.
If mold remains, wipe the furniture with a damp cloth dipped in dilute alcohol (1 cup denatured alcohol to 1 cup water) or a chlorine bleach solution (1/4 teaspoon bleach to a cup of water).
Dry the article thoroughly.
Use a low-pressure spray containing a fungicide to get rid of must odors and remaining mildew. Moisten all surfaces thoroughly. Re-spray frequently if mildew is a continuing problem. Spraying rooms with an aerosol material will not eliminate mildew problems.
If molds have grown into inner parts, send furniture to a dry cleaning or storage company for thorough drying and fumigation. Fumigation will kill molds present at the time but will not protect against future attacks. Wooden Furniture
Wooden furniture damaged by floods can best be salvaged through slow drying and proper repair.
Submerged Furniture
After you have removed movable parts, clean off mud and dirt, using a hose if necessary.
Take all furniture indoors and store it were it will dry slowly. Furniture left in the sunlight to dry will warp and twist out of shape.
When furniture is dry, re-glue it if necessary. You will need equipment and clamps to reglue some pieces. Before you start, decide whether you have the time, equipment and ability to do the work. Consult an experienced carpenter if necessary. To re-glue loose joints or rungs, scrape out old glue so the area will be as clean and free of glue as possible. Use a white all-purpose glue, following directions on container. Hold part together with rope tourniquets or C-clamps. To prevent damage from ropes or clamps, pad these areas with cloth.
Damp Furniture - Removing White Spots
White spots or a cloudy film may develop on damp furniture that has not been submerged. To remove white spots:
If color is not restored, dip 3/0 steel wool in oil (boiled linseed, olive, mineral or lemon). Rub lightly with the wood grain. Wipe with a soft cloth, and re-wax.
For deep spots use a drop or two of ammonia on a damp cloth. Rub at once with a dry cloth. Polish. Rubbing cigarette ashes, powdered pumice, or a piece of walnut into spots may also help remove them.
If spots remain after all efforts to remove them, the piece should be refinished.
Veneered Furniture
If veneer is loose in just a few places:
Wrap area with a strip of cloth so as not to damage finish.
Dry for about a week in warm, dry, well- ventilated place. Do not dry in direct heat or sunlight.
When piece is thoroughly dry, remove cloth. If veneering doesn't stay in place, apply a good quality glue and wrap again.
Repairing badly damaged veneered furniture requires special skill and tools. Unless you are an experienced woodworker don't attempt the job yourself. Take the furniture to a cabinetmaker, or have your dealer return it to the factory for repair. If insurance allows part value on flood-damaged furniture, it may be financially worthwhile to apply the money to new articles, rather than pay for extensive repairs.How to Salvage a Flood-Damaged CarInstructions Step 1
Assess the damage. Before you attempt any type of repair, see how bad the damage is. If the damage is going to cost more than the total worth of the car, then it is not salvageable.
Step 2Start by fixing the engine. This is the main concern with a flood-damaged vehicle. If there is water in the engine, then you should not drive it. Instead, have it towed to an engine repair shop.
Step 3Drain the transmission and oil pans of the flood damaged car. Once they have been drained, you can replace the oil and transmission fluid .
Step 4Allow the brake system to be dried and inspected. Brake fluid also needs to be replaced.
Step 5Give the interior of the car time to dry out. It is likely that a mildew smell will linger once it has dried. In this case, take the car to an upholstery repair shop. They can rip out the old material, dry it out and replace it.
How to Save a Flood Damaged Car Engine
If your car is ever caught in a flood, many will tell you the engine cannot be saved. If you love your car or do not have insurance for this type of damage, all may not be lost. As long as your car or truck was not completely submerged in water, you may have a chance to save your engine. This applies to fresh water floods, not salt water. Salt water is very corrosive and eats away at wires and other engine parts . The most important part is do NOT try to start your car until you do the following
Difficulty: Moderate Instructions Step 1
Disconnect the car battery and remove it.
Step 2Drain the motor oil. Let it drain at least overnight to get all of the water out.
Step 3If you car does not have a sealed transmission, drain the transmission oil. Let it drain for at least overnight.
Step 4Remove the spark plugs . You can set the spark plugs on the side for later use.
Step 5The next day, add new motor oil and transmission oil.
Step 6Put the battery back in and reconnect it.
Step 7Turn the ignition key so the engine attempts to turn over. The car will not start without spark plugs. This is done to get the water out of the cylinders.
Step 8Remove the old air filter. Replace the air filter with a new one.
Step 9Put the sparks plugs back in. You can use your old spark plugs or buy new ones.
Step 10Start the car.
(these have been culled from various sources on the www. pasensya na. nde ko nilagay yung credits. tska nalang pag may nag-hanap)Leave a commentShareFlag
(no subject)bitterorangeSeptember 22nd, 2009
this guy used to be me, hehehe. working for the corporate world was one of the things that i refused to do back in the philippines. when i graduated, i knew the corporate grind was not for me. i mean, what's the point of working your ass off to make somebody else rich?? i wanted to do something different. i wanted to experience things, to go to different places and to feel like i'm involved in something worthwhile. working for a non-profit organization is too idealistic, so i chose to work for the government. it took me 2 years before i got the chance but when it came, i embraced it with open arms. it probably doesn't pay much but the sense of fulfillment i get from doing what i love to do for the sake of public service is priceless. i miss it.
but then you come to a point where you have to consider other things... and you realize that you need to change. it doesn't mean that you have to let go of everything, because one could always compromise. i may sometimes feel that my life was put on rewind when i moved overseas, but not everyone is lucky enough to get a second chance.
there are still many things to be thankful for. Leave a commentShareFlag
DIVISORIA!!!bitterorangeSeptember 16th, 2009
visit this guy's blog post for awesome divisoria photos. otherjoseph.livejournal.com/64559.html
*hay* i cannot help but miss the nitty gritty of manila's urban decay. ilang taon ko din syang inembrace at inenjoy
i even miss my 2-hour commute from san mateo to bicutan: dalawang jeep, siksikan sa MRT, isang bulok na bus at short walk across the talipapa riles. it's dirty, tiring hot but along the way you notice a lot of things, people going on with their colorful lives =). siguro ganun talaga, you tend to romanticize the past, hahaha.
***
had my eyes checked. tumaas yung grado ko by 5 levels. something must be wrong with the light here. the aussie sun is just too strong. necessity na ang sunglasses.
***
going to the sunshine coast on the weekend. kelangan i-ready ang camera =P Leave a commentShareFlag
make a delicious kiwis dahil sale. kung sa pilipinas ka nakatira, pwedeng mangga ang ilagay =). but dont use over-ripe ones. piliin yung mangga na may good combination ng tamis at asim (hm, mahirap yatang tantsahin yon... unless tikman mo isa-isa yung bawat mangga. hahaha! oh well)
*note: all-purpose cream and 1/4 tsp of vanilla can be used instead of custard. adjust na lang sa dami ng condensed milk to sweeten.
procedures:
1. in a large bowl, paghaluin ang custard, cream cheese condensed milk. use a mixer. set aside.
2. start building the layers of your dessert in this order: spongefingers, cream, fruit. repeat until you fill up your dish. palala para sa mga inutil: make sure na FRUITang topmost layer para magandang tignan =P
3. chill
4. ilabas sa ref at lantakan
wag kalimutang iligpit ang kalat! =D
Leave a commentShareFlag
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