Hooked | one woman at sea, trolling for truth
Time 2022-07-26 10:43:05Web Name: Hooked | one woman at sea, trolling for truth
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Halcyon
Posted by Tele
Women in Fishing
July 12, 2021
32 comments
The ocean got Halcyon on Opening Day.
July 1, we had our gear in the water by 3:30. Five miles offshore, it was windy that morning. Choppy seas, wet air, visibility less than amile, everything steely gray. When the first fish of the season hit the deck, Hal was ready. He pranced across the deck, tail straight up happy, &sat under the fish table in expectation. Itossed him some head cut nubbins; he yummed them right up. He looked so pleased with himself, jumping back into his basket on top of the deck freezer.
It was 5:20 when we put the first fish down. Iclimbed downinto the hold, giving Hal areassuring smile. Seeing his monkeys disappear intothe freezer always freaked him out. Joel handed the fish down to me. He wentback into the cabin. Iglanced around the hold, decided it was too cold to doanything else down there. Icame back up &hosed off the fish table. Thesimplest series of events that took less than aminute, before Iglancedforward &realized Hal wasn’t in his basket anymore.
This wasn’t the first time we’d had to look for Hal. Ispent his previous two seasons constantly monitoring his whereabouts, leaping up from every coffee break to clarify where the cat was. He was always there, somewhere. So we started by checking all his usual spots on deck. The bow &roof where he’s not supposed to be. The cabin, the foc’s’le, under our bunk. He wasn’t anywhere.
We didn’t see him go over. We didn’t hear anything. By thetime we realized he was gone &got turned around, how long had our boyalready been in 54 degree water?
Too long.
Joel drove us back down our tack. Istood on the bow withbinoculars &scanned the chop. How do you find asmall cat in abig, unrulyocean? It seemed so impossibly unlikely… But we kept looking. And looking.Until, off the starboard, Icaught the briefest glimpse of something other thangray between the swells.
Joel cranked the wheel hard over. Igrabbed the dip net&ran to the mid-ship rail, just in time to see that lifeless orange bodyin blue adventure coat float past, 20 feet beyond my reach.
We turned around to make another pass. We didn’t find himagain.
We pulled our gear afew hours later, useless with disbelief&grief. We spent the rest of Opening Day running – not to any hot bite,just away, away from the scene of loss &the dreadful fear of seeing hisbody drift past in the waves.
This opening’s kings will be salty. We sobbed through the followingdays, going through the motions of our work, tears falling into salmon bellies.
“It’s just acat.” Some folks aren’t pet people, Iget that. And Iknow some of you, fisher-friends, are haunted by the crewmates who slipped through your fingers. But this cat was our boy, &there’s no grief without guilt. Why didn’t Ishoo him into the cabin as we handed the fish down? How did we not see him go over? Why didn’t we turn around sooner? How could we leave him out there? Ihate thinking of our fleetmates encountering his body, as if he’d been carelessly discarded, unloved.
Every spring, stocking the Nerka for the coming season, Iconsider my attachments. Don’t take anything to sea that you’re not willing to lose. Picturing the wave that tosses the dish rack across the cabin, Ileave afavorite coffee cup on land. Then we untie the lines, heading out with our most dearly beloveds. What am Iwilling to lose?
One of Hal’s friends, aveterinarian who is also afisherman, offered this grace: “I truly believe he had amore incredible kitty life with you guys, doing his adventures, than the average cat.” True fact: Hal was relentless in his quest for adventures. With time, Ican mostly accept our friend’s offering. Ijust can’t get past how brief his life was, or how fucking terrible of adeath. It was our job to keep him safe.
Hard as his death is, it’s just as painful recalling the final months of Hal’s life. We spent too much time complaining that he wasn’t acuddler, failing to appreciate who he was, exactly as he was.
This is who Halcyon was:
Born in Tacoma on August 18, 2018, Hal joined Team Nerka when he was 10 weeks old. 2018 was arough time. Gazing at that blazing ball of orange fluff in Joel’s palms, we saw our halcyon, the mythical creature bringing hope to mariners. For too short of atime, he did just that.
Summiting our legs &extension ladders, Hal was aclimber, always wanting to go higher, see more. It was impossible to keep him off the counters; we gave up trying. He was indifferent to humans (“Not real into people, is he?” avet observed last winter) but had admirers everywhere he went. And he did go everywhere: packed into the car for road trips near &far, Hal loved car rides, being in motion. He went to FisherPoets &on ski trips. We couldn’t take him on enough walks. (Why didn’t we take him on more walks?) Hearing the magic words – Hang on, gotta put your adventure coat on – he’d stand patiently to get buckled into his harness, leash snapped on. Then we’d go exploring. His tail was never higher than when he got to lead the way. He’d march through snow until he shivered &we intervened, That’s enough, time to go back inside. He had anear-shockingly poor sense of self-preservation. He was alooker, the most photogenic of all of us. Such apretty boy, yet smart enough to unscrew the treat jar &understand how doors worked. (He tried desperately to let himself out, hanging from the handles. If they weren’t inward opening, he could’ve gotten there.) He hated shuffled footsteps. He loved playing with dogs, playing hide &seek, &would chase alaser beam until his sides heaved. He had abizarre fetish for aparticular bamboo kitchen spoon. He loved the boat: unfazed by weather, curious about everything, afiend for salmon blood puddle. Never alap cat, he always wanted to be near us, flopping in aperfect triangle to keep both of his monkeys in sight. He tolerated our kisses, &more often than not, gave some back, rough licks of our foreheads &noses. If we caught him at just the right time, at his sleepiest, he’d let us cradle him, nuzzled into our necks.
Hal was our little goofball, our Dingus Khan. He was an adventure cat, my constant road companion. He was Halcyon the Destroyer, our sweet boy, part of the love pack, &he deserved so much more.
Read MoreChange
Posted by Tele
Women in Fishing
August 10, 2020
12 comments
The water was warm last summer. Dixon Entrance to Sitka, Southeast Alaska felt eerily barren – no bait, no birds. All July &August, the coho were skittish, unwilling to school up or settle into traditionally favored spots. With no hot bites to run to, some boats tied up mid-season, unable to justify the cost of fuel for the fish they weren’t catching. Newer fleetmates looked stunned, confessing they hadn’t even broken 300 yet. They’d come in on the good years, thinking those days were normal. As for Joel &me, Team Nerka finally had to practice patience. Notorious runners, always searching for something better – one of our elders once said about Joel, “That boy’s jumpier than afart in askillet” – instead we stuck &stayed &tried to make it pay, grinding out days for meager two-digit scores we would’ve abandoned by mid-morning on previous years. When friends asked us how the season was going, we told them the word for the summer was “underwhelming.”
Underwhelming. Spoken in true fisherman fashion: understated, minimizing reality. Like shrugging “We did all right,” when you come back to town with the hold plugged &the waterline sunk. Like green water washing over the windows, coffee cup swan-diving to shards on the floor, your partner in the anchorage asking for aweather report: “It’s nautical.” Like the calm observation, the water was warm, instead of screaming WTF, what’s happening, how did we get here?
How did Iget here?
Anchorage,1985. Afaded 3x5 captures the moment. A43’ foot trimaran hovers in the centerof the shot, suspended by acrane. My parents, veterinarians in the Mat-SuValley, have spent the past seven years building the Askari in our landlockedbackyard. Seven years toiling in the vet clinic every day, laboring deep intoevery night to create this moment, the long-awaited launch. My dad strains atthe bow, gripping aguideline. My mom dashes to steady the stern. Iam achildsupervisor, hands stuffed in pockets, standing on aprecipice with the Askari,life cleaving into hemispheres of before &after, suspended between land&sea.
That was 35 years ago. I’m 42 now, the same age my mom was when she traded her veterinary license for atroll permit. Imagine – the courage to turn away from your education, the business you’d built, your home, from land itself; sell it all, go all in. Crafting an alternate reality out of fiberglass, resin, dreams.
Imagine… believing in adream envisioned, believing in it so profoundly, as to sacrifice everything without any guarantees. To sacrifice, suffer even, for the sheer possibility of change.
In December 2019, the news broke that the Gulf of Alaska’s cod fishery would be closed for the 2020 season. It was the first fishery to be closed not because of overfishing, but as aconsequence of warming waters.
Afew weeks later, Alaska Fish &Game released their projection for Sitka’s sac roe herring fishery, aharvest target of 25,000 tons, up from last year’s 13,000. They didn’t catch the quota last year, or the year before that. Just finally gave up, charging west to try other regions, other fisheries, leaving disgusted sighs of exhaust in their wake.
Ithink about herring – akeystone species, their wellbeing essential to the survival of everyone above them on the food chain, including king salmon – &I think about money, &how fisherfolks are in the VIP seats, front ¢er as change washes over us, &you know those boats charging west in search of other regions, other fisheries, their engines sound an awful lot like the band on the Titanic playing on, playing on, &in my mind they’re playing with Tracy Chapman &she’s singing If you knew that you would die today – would you change?
After the fishing season, Ispend winters selling the Nerka’s catch. For many of my fleetmates, this is the goal: get your boot in the door with an ice boat, work up to afreezer boat, cut out the middlemen &sell your catch yourself. Ianswer their questions, watch them ascend the industry escalator, watch their determination to make it as they sacrifice, suffer even, for their dream of making agood life catching fewer fish at agreater value.
Meanwhile, over the past five years of slinging salmon to chefs in the surrounding counties, I’ve driven the equivalent of crossing the country ten times, often to asoundtrack of NPR, listening to the latest on amelting Arctic &a blazing Australia, thinking about change – climate change, social change, spare change, this show sucks change the channel, burn it all down &start over systemic change. The ways we’re socialized to believe we’re supposed to change – moving on up, up, &away, striving for faster, better, more.
Me, Iwant to sloooooooow down. The more Iwant is smaller, simpler. More quiet, more peace, acare-filled, purposeful present, more acts of kindness &compassion for you and for me, too. This planet is spinning too, too fast &I want off, but how do you stop when your foot is one of billions stuck on the gas pedal? Global change? Imight as well be welded to this Chevy Astro, I’m such apart of the machine.
Last September, toward the end of the fishing season, Isat withafleetmate. His birthday falls in August, smack-dab in what’s historically oursecond king opening. This year, for the first time, he tied the boat up &skipped the opening – aking opening! – to welcome his 72nd raftingthe Alsek River with loved ones instead.
“I never could’ve imagined doing that,” he said. His voice wasequal parts awe &gratitude for his decision, &I wondered what itwould be like if we all had the security &freedom to make such audacious,life-giving choices, to measure the value of pounds to dollars to your time’sworth, your life’s worth. Who among us can afford to do this?
Who canafford not to?
The water was warm last summer. No one denies that. Instead we argue differing takeaways. Some mock ateenage girl’s urgent call to action – so direct &fierce, sacrilege to fishing’s code of understatement. Others travel to DC to lobby to protect the Tongass, the world’s largest remaining temperate rainforest. Searching for the magic words to urge people to care, to act, we resort to the language of money. What’s it to you?
Ido it, too. For every salmon Ithank as Islice theirgills – thank you, thank you – life runsout the scuppers &by the end of the season I’m running numbers same asanyone else: how many fish at how many pounds at how many dollars to fill howmany orders. This is all part of asea-to-plate story, &I’ve been livingversions of it since Iwas that little girl landing in Sitka, jigging off thedock in Old Thomsen Harbor with fellow boat kids, filling five-gallon bucketswith baby black cod. At the end of the day we sold them to my friends’ dad forhalibut bait. He paid us in ice cream cones from the Dip-n-Sip.
Thirty-five years living this life with critical yet marrow-deep devotion. Devotion like being lashed to the mast of aship cradling you &me &all living things, thrashed by aperfect storm of capitalism, complicity, hypocrisy. As the wind catches its breath, we soothe each other with stories. Stories like when Icrewed for my brother for aking opening &watched him pull athirty-pounder boat-side. Thick-bellied, not ashimmering scale missing, perfect &perfectly hooked through the tip of her snub nose. He slipped his gaff gently through &popped the hook free, telling her, “Go find ariver.”
That’s what keeps me on this ship, you know – faith that there might be some meaning in these moments when we do the unexpected, do the hard thing, when we go off-script &show what we truly value. When the storm continues but we’re not passive. When we reach for the tools before us – science, history, culture, art, community, love – and we make achange.
Read MoreOf Salmon, Orcas, &Fisher-families
Posted by Tele
Alaska, Commercial Fishing, Environment, Hooked Favorites, Salmon Trolling
May 16, 2020
15 comments
For Southeast Alaska’s salmon trollers, thelongest day of the year falls on July 1: opening day of Chinook salmon season.
Every July 1finds us – two humans andour boat, the 43-foot Nerka – fortymiles offshore in the Gulf of Alaska. We’ll be in our boots ‘til sundown:checking our hooks, processing the catch, handling every salmon with meticulouscare. We’ll talk about our partners, Pacific Northwest chefs and grocers, who willbuild their own work around our harvest. Throughout the day we’ll exclaim atbreaching humpbacks, aLayson albatross soaring by, aschool of herringflipping on the surface. Everything is an interconnected wonder.
One hook, one fish. Following ten thousand years of First Nations’ seasonal harvests and environmental stewardship, this ethos has guided Southeast Alaska’s commercial troll fleet for almost 150 years. As second-generation fishermen proud of the conservation values regulating our work, it’s surreal to find our fishery in the Wild Fish Conservancy’s crosshairs.
On April 17, the Duvall-based organization filed an injunction in federal court to block king salmon trolling in Alaska this season, effective July 1. The injunction comes just amonth after the WFC’s lawsuit against the National Oceanic &Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) for authorizing Alaska’s Chinook troll fishery, alleging troll interception as the cause of the Southern Resident orca’s nutritional deficiencies. This lawsuit addresses none of the very real threats to the Southern Resident orcas and salmon – Puget Sound’s habitat loss, pollution, dams, climate change – but instead seeks to shut down some of the hardest working advocates for salmon: community-based fisher-folks in asustainable fishery over athousand miles away.
Having this unfold amidst pandemic days, when everyone’s circumstances are already precarious and any sense of normalcy wildly off-kilter, has been brutal. Salmon trollers are literal mom-and-pop operations, struggling to stay afloat with little-to-no margins. The vast majority of the fleet — 85% — is comprised of Alaska residents. Southeast Alaska’s coastal communities have spent decades sacrificing to compensate for the Lower 48’s freshwater habitat destruction, illustrated by the cuts to our Chinook quota in Pacific Salmon Treaty (PST) negotiations: 35% in 1999, 15% in 2009, and at least another 7.5% in 2019. When it comes to saving Chinook salmon and the orcas that depend on them, no one has more at stake than commercial fishing families. Our livelihoods depend on healthy stocks and fisheries managed for the long-term. Conscientious consumers know this; it’s why Alaska has consistently been lauded for its “best practice” fisheries, world-renowned as amodel of sustainability.
Last summer, Alaska’s trollers fished atotal of seven days for kings. Eliminating the lowest impact fishery on the water will not reduce the toxicity of Puget Sound or the PCB levels responsible for “peanut-head” offspring, nor will it address the impact of the Lower Snake River dams and the rampant habitat loss caused by America’s fastest-growing metropolis. Notably, Washington’s Southern Resident Orca Task Force, expert stakeholders, isn’t backing the WFC’s lawsuit. Instead of helping orcas, this will devastate Southeast Alaska’s coastal communities and our partners across the country.
Fisherman/environmentalist: we’re oldenough to remember when folks had to choose one or the other. That’s atired tropeperformed by both sides, and we reject it. We are acommercial fisher-family.We are environmentalists. The WFC speaks for neither.
As harvesters, we are responsible for telling the story of our salmon. Few of our land-friends will ever watch aking salmon breach the water’s surface as dawn breaks over the Fairweather Range, but if we do our work properly, they’ll feel reverence for the fish on their plate. Only through alliances between commercial fisher-folks, conservationists, service industry professionals, tribal members, sports fishing groups, scientists, &consumers – can we hope to turn the tide for the long-term survival of the Southern Resident orcas. The WFC’s lawsuit is not the path that will get us there.
As of May 12, we still don’t know how our 2020 salmon season will unfold, waiting for afederal judge in Washington to rule on the WFC’s injunction. Please visit the Alaska Trollers Association to donate to ATA’s Legal Fund.
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